Two New Moras

[Valkman]

I've never owned a Mora knife and they were mentioned many times in the "Inexpensive and valuable knife list" thread (http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=651224) so I decided to get one or two.

I went to Amazon and ordered a Classic #1 and a #2, both with the red wood handles and no guards. I might feel better with a guard but decided to get these instead. They cost a bit more at Amazon than at Ragweed Forge but the free shipping and super-fast delivery always get me - I ordered these Monday evening and had them in todays (Wed) mail.

Anyway, to the good stuff.




The #2 is on top and has a bigger handle than the #1 and a longer blade. I definitely like the handle on the #2 better than the #1.

Since all knives new or not get the Wicked Edge treatment I mounted the #1 in the clamp and tried to make a 15 degree micro-bevel. One side was fine but the other side I was thwarted by the back of the tightening screw - it wouldn't let me get the middle section of the knife.



You can see where the screw sticks out slightly and that was enough to block the stone from hitting the edge.

Here's the #2 in the WE - it has a wider blade and I was able to sharpen it. I used the 1200/1600 stones at 15 degrees and then the 3.5 micron strop.



This is one sharp knife! Have to find some jobs for these two...

 

[AStone]

Watching with interest.

3.5 microns still boggles the mind;
well, at least my mind.

 

[JohnKSa]

Since all knives new or not get the Wicked Edge treatment I mounted the #1 in the clamp and tried to make a 15 degree micro-bevel. One side was fine but the other side I was thwarted by the back of the tightening screw - it wouldn't let me get the middle section of the knife.

Get a piece of thin leather or maybe even a piece of denim and use it as a spacer to make the the knife blade seem slightly thicker. That should eliminate the problem with the screw.

 

[hso]

My wife's go to chicken dispatching knife is a 2. She's also used it to dress goats. Good knives.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

I've had the same problem with thin knives and a 15 degree angle on the WE. I use a piece of paper towel, rubber, etc. to make the spine wider. Never had the problem on any of my Moras; but I don't have a #1 either.

 

[BCCL]

Two handy blades. Always amazes me what some outdoor guys can do with a classic red handled Mora!

 

[Deltaboy1984]

I got the Army one a few years ago off Amazon and it cuts everything with easy.

 

[David E]

I've never owned a Mora knife...... tried to make a 15 degree micro-bevel.

From what I have learned, it is a mistake to put a micro-bevel on Scandi-ground blades. The bevel as-is provides the correct sharpening angle and is easy to hold it to the sharpening stone by hand.

A feature appreciated when one doesn't have his sharpening outfit with him afield.

 

[Kingcreek]

I don't micro bevel mine either but I strop polish the edge after sharpening at the original single bevel angle.
I like the plastic handle with a slight guard, I think it is a 510 or 710 model. I definitely prefer the carbon steel to the stainless blades. I bought 10 of them years ago and I have them in the gloveboxes, backpack, boat, barn, etc.
great knives for the money.

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

The Scandi grind on a Mora is just a bit less than 15 degrees, so using the Wicked Edge, you have no choice but to go with a micro-bevel since 15 degrees is as low as it will go currently (I think an adapter is planned for it though to enable even steeper angles).

A 15 degree microbevel still lets you use the same technique for field sharpening. You just lay the Scandi grind against the stone, lift a hair until the blade bites and voila... you are sharpening.

I really like Moras - razor sharp, easy to sharpen, and because they are dirt cheap I don't have the least qualm about using them in situations where I might not do that with a more expensive knife.

 

[David E]

A 15 degree microbevel still lets you use the same technique for field sharpening. You just lay the Scandi grind against the stone, lift a hair until the blade bites and voila... you are sharpening.
.

The problem is keeping the "hair" consistent.

 

[HoosierQ]

It's perfectly OK to put a micro bevel on a scandi. In the far north they will generally put a micro bevel on it to keep it sharp in the field and then lay it flat and return it to zero back in camp after the hunt or the herd or the fishing trip is over...when there's time. Depending on use, I sometimes do and other times don't go right to a microbevel. I use the 30 degree setting on a Sharpmaker which is just right for just about all scandis.

The only time it would be a full-fledged mistake to micro-bevel a scandi is in the area of wood carving. The zero ground scandi is the best geometry for wood carving.

Let's also not be putting full fledged secondary bevel on there, making your scandi a saber-ground knife. A proper micro-bevel, IHMO, should require you to hold the blade just right to the light to see it...a small fraction of one milimeter in width.

 

[ccsniper]

My Mora has been beat the hell out of, used the back to start fires with chert, skinned countless squirrels and rabbits. It is my favorite knife.

 

[AStone]

I've been reading about Mora's for years, mostly on this forum, occasionally elsewhere.

I've never owned one; pretty sure I saw one or two, though,
but probably didn't realize at the time what I was seeing.
(Some of us are late blooming bladers.)

This thread is pushing me toward putting one on my wish list.

 

[Valkman]

Lots of good info here!

 

[Bartholomew Roberts]

The problem is keeping the "hair" consistent.

Well, I can't speak for everyone; but the whole reason I have a Sharpmaker and Wicked Edge is because I suck at freehand sharpening; but even I have no problem freehand sharpening a Mora with a 15 degree microbevel on it. I can't get it as sharp as I can at home; but I can get it more than sharp enough for normal use.

I mean the actual Scandi grind on my Mora #2 is around 13-14 degrees. So we are talking a 1-2 degree difference from the grind. By the time it is stropped, I suspect the difference is pretty insignificant.

 

[Kingcreek]

On the wood-handled Moras, I like to drip enough super glue into the gaps around the blade to fill and seal it at the wood junction. Just so blood or fish goop etc can't get in there and hide and grow bacteria that ends up on my apple or cheese.