uberti 1858 mainspring and caps

[Tommygunwinter]

Hi all,

So my new Uberti 1858 Remington takes two trigger pulls - easy trigger pulls and hammer cock - to ignite a #10 cap. The first pull puts a small dent in the cap, the second fire its. (and yes, the caps were fully set.)

At least until I tightened the mainspring screw - half turn by half turn, testing at each turn. Now, after some 2 full turns, the screw is recessed into the hand grip strap and nearly three threads are showing! It does now fire the caps on the first pull.

Is it worth the aggravation to send it back to Uberti? I'm worried that the screw could end up getting stripped with perhaps half the machined threads no longer serving as a bearing surface.

thoughts welcome.

Meanwhile, Happy New Year

 

[45 Dragoon]

You may need number 11 caps. What brand of caps are you using?

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

 

[AJumbo]

Agreed, perhaps different caps and/or nipples. If you're using those old CVA brass percussion caps, I found that only a polished farrier's anvil dropped on them from a height of 47" would reliably light them.

 

[44 Dave]

Those old brass caps, that I have only a few left of, are the only caps that fit my 1968 built Uberti 1860s with out "messing with"and they don't blow apart and fly off to cause cap jams. They ares probably the same vintage.
I do have one gun that unless I use a push stick with CCI caps it takes 2 strikes ( one to set and then fire) if I don't push them all of the way down.

 

[oldfogey4ever]

Go here and get some new nipples (notice that on these nipples CCI #11 caps fit perfectly), install them, and that should end your "cap" problem.(That and getting some new caps!)

 

[Tommygunwinter]

Thanks for all the advice. Yes, got #11 caps and my problem was solved. They go on a bit too easy, so will look into replacing nipples too.

 

[Panzerschwein]

Just remember, throwing the latest and greatest wonder nipples at the problem may not solve it.

Last year when my Navy would tie up with cap fragments, I bought an expensive set Slix-Shot nipples for the gun and using the recommended Remington #10 caps guess what happened?

Nothing. The gun still ate fragments all the time and not only that, had light strikes on fully seated caps.

 

[oldfogey4ever]

That's why I recommended those nipples (Slix-shots have a bad rep on cap-eating), and they're definitely not the latest or greatest. They are properly sized for commercially-made caps availble today, however, and think you can get CCI # 11 Magnums (good caps by any measures - and I generally don't like CCI caps, rather have Walthar/RWS but too expensive - quality costs -) anywhere in the country. If you have light strikes, one of two things is happening: (a) Your caps are sitting "proud" (generally caused by improperly sized caps - i.e., caps too small for the nipple where the first hammer strike forces the cap skirt to expand to fit the nipple), or (b) your hammerspring has been smithed beyond the point of service.

If you really want to know more about nipple and caps, look at this one, and then this one.

 

[BSA1]

At least until I tightened the mainspring screw - half turn by half turn, testing at each turn. Now, after some 2 full turns, the screw is recessed into the hand grip strap and nearly three threads are showing! It does now fire the caps on the first pull.

The mainspring screw should be fully screwed in. It is not a adjustment screw for the how hard the hammer falls.

The proper way to lighten the hammer fall is to reduce the width of the mainspring. This can be done on grinder or belt sander and is a trial and error process. You should have s spare mainspring should when you go too far reducing the width on the first one you know how far not to go on the second.

 

[Stormin.40]

Tommygunwinter, my year old Uberti 58 with the original nipples likes Remington #10 caps. If you haven't tried them yet and can find them I would give that a shot. #11 were very loose on my Uberti.

 

[Tommygunwinter]

The 10s are too tight and the 11s are just a touch too loose. I'm going to try the nipple upgrade suggested above - will advise on which caps fit best once they arrive and are put to use.

I will say the Remington is great - better balanced and easier to aim than a SA 45 Colt w/cartridges. Particularly like that the charge can be adjusted up and down. Shot three cylinders of 20gr and one of 30. Like the 20 better for targets.

 

[Branko_D]

#10 caps are the correct size for most modern built Uberti revolvers, only the Walker is better served by size 11#.

If the hammer strikes too light and it won't ignite, you did the right thing to tighten the tension screw. However, yeah, if the threads show that is not good either. A new mainspring would probably solve the problem and it's easy to replace, or sending the gun back so they do it is an option, too.

It's not a cap or nipple problem if the hammer doesn's strike hard enough. Hell, the standard nipples on the newish Ubertis work well enough with Remington or S&B #10 caps, if the gun is clear of oil they fire with great reliability.

 

[Tommygunwinter]

Part II to mainspring and caps

So, I spoke too soon about problem gone. #11s helped, but didn't eliminate it. At least once each cylinder load a cap has to be struck twice before it fires. Sometimes that happens twice on a cylinder.

I tried a new set of nipples from track of wolf, which didn't make much difference except they are hard to screw in.

I'm experimenting with a small shim of leather at the spring base, at the rear facing backwards, so the spring bends more. (I ordered a new spring but it is a 1/4" too short. Got to return it. Got it from Numrich.)

Someone suggested turning the nipples out a half turn or so. Anyone have thoughts that? To reduce distance hammer has to fall.

 

[Timtoolman]

Hammer to nipple gap to wide?

 

[Timtoolman]

Some gunsmiths install thin shims under the nipple to bring the hammer closer to nipple with out reworking the hammer

 

[44 Dave]

my old Uberti '58s spring is just a little short (not 1/4") I have a small shim in the spring slot to keep the tip from slipping off of the hammer roller.
I would say that if the caps fire on the second try the hammer/ nipple should not be messed with.
Does the hammer have a tight spot in it's travel? Can you compare the strength between the too weak spring and the too short spring?