Uberti Cattleman weak mainspring?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Rebel-1

Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
42
Location
Roseburg, Oregon
I recently picked up a Cattleman in .45 LC with a 4/5/8" barrel. I really like the gun but i am having frequent misfires with it. The mainspring seems to be a bit weak to me, really easy to cock. I removed the hammer block safety as i thought that might be the problem but it is still doing it. Is there an easy way to put more tension on the spring? Is this a common problem with the Uberti's? Any help would be appreciated.
 
You can get a New mainspring from Brownell's
Or if you know how, reform and re heat treat your spring.
But do not take out the transfer bar.
Have you checked your firing pin protrusion, and if the firing pin is moving freely ?
 
Mainspring reply

Howdy, and thanks for the reply. I don't have a transfer bar in the Uberti, it is a copy of the Colt SAA. Firing pin protrudes from the hammer. Will look into a new mainspring if i can't get more pressure on this one.
 
Is the misfires with factory or reloaded ammo? Is the gun new or used?

I agree with LAGS that the transfer bar should stay in.

How deep are the depressions on the primers of the misfires? Light strikes should look like light strikes weather factory or reloads.
 
Again, the Uberti does not have a transfer bar.

I would suggest a Wolff replacement spring kit, not a factory spring. Factory springs are way too heavy.
 
Heavier mainspring

A heavier mainspring seems to be what i need as i think mine may be too weak? The firing pin depressions are less on the misfires than on the fired rounds.
 
Sorry, My Bad.
I misunderstood the Hammer Block Safety for meaning a transfer bar.
Have you checked the " End Shake" on your Cylinder .
If the cylinder can move forward and back too much, it can cause erratic firing.
 
Safety

No, the safety is something they had to install to be able to import them into this messed up mess of a Country we are now forced to endure.
 
@ Rebel-1
I know about the safety thing and the import restrictions.
But to me a safety on a single action or even a double action revolver is a total waste.
The government also messed up a Bunch of Takorov tt pistols by putting on a thumb safety so they could be imported.

How are you going to try and fix the mainspring ?
Is it Flat when out of the gun, or is there a slight curve to it ?
if this gun is like the Old Iver Johnson Catelman, you might be able to install a shim under the mainspring above the screw that holds the mainspring to the frontstrap.
That will make the spring curve more when the screw is tightened down, thus increasing the spring pressure.
 
Shim

That is exactly what i did. I will see if it works next time i get a break in the rain and can get out. It is a flat mainspring with a curve at the top. Just like the old Colt cap and ball revolvers.
 
@ Rebel 1
Do you have a trigger pull scale, or a fishing scale ?
You should check out the tension on the hammer with the original spring configuration, and then again with a shim under the base of the spring.
That in itself will tell you if you really made a differance.
It could save you some time at the range.
 
Shim

It made a difference in the amount of pressure required to cock the hammer. Also, the hammer seems to fall better now. I think i am going to go ahead and order a new mainspring and a new firing pin. Even if i don't need them it doesn't hurt to have spare parts on hand. Thanks.
 
Just a little tip for you guys who do not have a trigger pull scale or a fish scale, but want to check out the weight of yout trigger pull, or hammer pull.

A Roll of Quarters weighs 1/2 pound.
Put rolls of Quarters in a zip lock baggie and hang them on a piece of stiff wire like a coat hanger wire, and hook them on your trigger.
Then lift up your rifle to see what weight it takes to trip the trigger just as the baggie of quarters just is lifted off the ground.
You can use fishing weights the same way also, but here in Arizona, we dont have much use for 1lb fishing weights.

I like to set my rifle triggers at $40.00 to $50.00 pull
 
A heavier mainspring seems to be what i need as i think mine may be too weak?
As I said, factory main springs are too heavy. I would again suggest a Wolff replacement set, including the music wire sear/trigger spring.
 
Spare or replacement parts are always good to have.
Plus, if you get a new Mainspring, then that allows you the option of trying to re-work the old spring to improve you knowledge and skills.

But if you are not confident in what you are doing, then wait till the new part arrives, and you know it works BEFORE experimenting with the old parts.
Then you may aquire skills for the day when you can not find the replacement parts you need.
 
@ Rebel-1
I as well as a friend think the CCI primers are actually harder.
And I use Winchester primers in my Antique ( P.O.S revolvers ) and have not had an issue.
I take it you do not have the means to check the firing pin protrusion ?
But a weak spring is where I would start, then the firing pin and protrusion, as wall as parts not moving freely in the gun.
 
Parts

I just ordered a new mainspring, trigger/bolt spring, and firing pin from VTI. I cleaned the revolver up real good and took a magnifying glass and looked for rough spots or burrs. Cleaned the firing pin hole in the frame out good as well as the hammer and inside the frame where it travels. Shimmed the spring and if it isn't raining i will try it out tomorrow. Hopefully the new parts will be here next week. Take care and thanks.
 
Howdy

First off, if you bought the gun used there is a good chance somebody has lightened the hammer spring. Lots of Cowboy shooters, myself included, do that. It is easy to lighten it too much. Did you buy the gun used?

Second, look to see if anybody has placed a spacer between the main spring and the frame where the spring screws to the frame. Putting a spacer there is a well known way to reduce the hammer pull.

Third, don't try to figure out what's wrong with questionable reloads. Eliminate the unknown factors. Use factory ammo. If they are reloads, how do you know the primers were seated properly? A very common problem with reloads is the primer is not seated all the way and the firing pin expends some of its energy seating the primer before the primer fires. This can create misfires. A shallow dent on a primer may be from a weak spring, it may be from an improperly seated primer. They look the same. Check the ammo to see that the primers have been seated properly. They should be just a couple of thousandths subflush to the case head, they should not be proud.

If you reload your own ammo you can just use primed cases to test hammer spring strength, I do it all the time. However be aware that a fired primer in a primed case with no powder or bullet will tend to back out, jamming the gun up a bit. This is normal with firing primed cases.

Craig C is correct as usual, most Uberti guns, rifles and revolvers, come off the line with hammer springs that are too strong. I have never seen one that is too weak.

If in doubt about the hammer spring, don't try to rebend it, you will probably just make it worse. You can buy a factory spec spring from VTI replica gun parts. They have springs for all the Uberti products and can sell you the correct one. They know their products very well.

http://www.vtigunparts.com/

If you decide you want a lighter than normal hammer spring, you can buy one from Wolff. I have bought many springs from Wolff.

http://www.gunsprings.com/

For what its worth, Winchester primers are halfway on the hardness scale. Federal primers are the easiest to set off. I know some CAS shooters who tune their guns so finely that they will only reliably set off Federal primers, these ultra tuned guns will sometimes not set off Winchester or CCI primers reliably.

Again, did you buy the gun used?

I have no comment to make about the hammer safety in Uberti revolvers. They seem to be pretty reliable, I have not seen them make any difference. My Colts do not have such a device.

P.S. Looks like you were typing while I was. Did you buy standard springs or reduced power? For normal, informal shooting standard springs are fine. Reduced power springs are for competition, or if you like the gun to be silky smooth. But just replacing springs is not the same as an action job.
 
Last edited:
Driftwood

I bought the gun used and the fella was a CAS shooter. So that may be what happened. I bought a new factory spring for it from VTI along with the trigger/bolt spring and a new firing pin. There is no spacer between the spring and the frame. I really like the gun and the caliber. As soon as i get it reliable it will be great. Thanks for the help.
 
Howdy Again

Your firing pin is probably fine, try the new spring before changing out the firing pin. Just so you know, nominal firing pin protrusion from the frame of a SAA should be .045 min - .056 max. You can buy a special gauge for this from Brownells, but you can do a pretty good job of eyeballing it laying a drill bit of known diameter next to the firing pin with the hammer all the way down.
 
Protrusion

I figured maybe i could put the hammer down and then try my feeler gauges until i get the right amount of thickness?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top