royal barnes
Member
It would seem to me that a shim installed the way you described might make the hammer harder to cock but would also impede forward travel of that hammer. Do yourself a favor and listen to Drtiftwood.
Uberti Cattleman weak mainspring?
- Thread starter Rebel-1
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Rebel-1
Member
It doesn't seem to be slowing the hammer fall any. All i know is that it appears to work. No misfires with the shim in so far.
Rebel-1
Member
Question? Trade?
Do any of you CAS fellas have a strong mainspring that you took out of an Uberti Cattleman that you would like to trade for a spring that is weaker? If so PM me or e-mail me at [email protected]
Do any of you CAS fellas have a strong mainspring that you took out of an Uberti Cattleman that you would like to trade for a spring that is weaker? If so PM me or e-mail me at [email protected]
LAGS
Member
@ Rebel1
Now that you have Two Springs.
If you cant find someone to trade for what you want.
Have you thought about trying to Re-temper one of the springs you have ?
Now that you have Two Springs.
If you cant find someone to trade for what you want.
Have you thought about trying to Re-temper one of the springs you have ?
Rebel-1
Member
Lags
Yep, but i have NO idea how to go about it.
Yep, but i have NO idea how to go about it.
LAGS
Member
Do you have a Brownell's catalog ?
They have a Blerb in there explaining how to make a Flat spring.
The note is in the section by the Spring steel stock supplies.
Basicly you heat and form the spring the way you want it.
Then heat it up to a Dull red color evenly, then drop into a pan of motor Oil so the spring is covered under the oil.
Then you light the oil with your torch, and let the oil burn off.
Once the oil burns off you cover the spring with dry lime, and let cool for an hour or two.
I found that the first Quenching in Linseed oil makes a Snappyer spring then set it in the motor oil to burn off and do the tempering.
I am sure you can find plenty of information on the net, and others on the forum can tell you their methods.
I have just finished making New Mainsprings and retempering others for some of my antique pistols I will be shooting Wednesday.
So it is something that I do, and not just something I read about.
I have to, Because Wolfe doesn't make springs for the Crap I fix.
They have a Blerb in there explaining how to make a Flat spring.
The note is in the section by the Spring steel stock supplies.
Basicly you heat and form the spring the way you want it.
Then heat it up to a Dull red color evenly, then drop into a pan of motor Oil so the spring is covered under the oil.
Then you light the oil with your torch, and let the oil burn off.
Once the oil burns off you cover the spring with dry lime, and let cool for an hour or two.
I found that the first Quenching in Linseed oil makes a Snappyer spring then set it in the motor oil to burn off and do the tempering.
I am sure you can find plenty of information on the net, and others on the forum can tell you their methods.
I have just finished making New Mainsprings and retempering others for some of my antique pistols I will be shooting Wednesday.
So it is something that I do, and not just something I read about.
I have to, Because Wolfe doesn't make springs for the Crap I fix.
Last edited:
35 Whelen
Member
Rebel I thought you'd tried several primed cases and it worked on all of them...?
35W
35W
Driftwood Johnson
Member
Did you ever contact VTI and find out exactly what spring they sent you?
A standard Uberti main spring should set off all brands of primers with no problem. As we have said before, standard Uberti springs are stronger than need be to overcome internal friction. If you have two springs, and if they are standard springs, and they do not reliably fire primers, then something else is wrong.
If you remove the spring, and work the hammer, do you feel friction or resistance to the hammer moving? There should be light resistance as the bolt pops over the hammer cam, but other than that, there should be very little resistance to the hammer falling.
What about the firing pin? Did you try replacing it?
A standard Uberti main spring should set off all brands of primers with no problem. As we have said before, standard Uberti springs are stronger than need be to overcome internal friction. If you have two springs, and if they are standard springs, and they do not reliably fire primers, then something else is wrong.
If you remove the spring, and work the hammer, do you feel friction or resistance to the hammer moving? There should be light resistance as the bolt pops over the hammer cam, but other than that, there should be very little resistance to the hammer falling.
What about the firing pin? Did you try replacing it?
Rebel-1
Member
I tried contacting VTI a week ago but still haven't gotten a reply. There is no resistance to the hammer movement. Haven't replaced the pin yet as i have had no misfires with the shimmed spring. But i want a stronger spring that i don't need to shim.
Rebel-1
Member
I just heard from VTI. Here is what they had to say.
"Rod – You were sent the Uberti factory spring fresh out of the Uberti production line. The lighter spring is an aftermarket spring which is kept no where near the Uberti parts, so no there’s no chance a lighter one got mixed in.
Please look very carefully at your firing pin. Sometimes the retaining pin bends from the recoil of the gun and leave the firing pin too far away from the primers.
Also, if your gun is more than 20 years ago, Uberti was using a stronger mainspring then, but these are no longer available. Also guns that old had a longer firing pin, but this was also discontinued. If you want a longer firing pin, we suggest using the Pietta ones SAA55532 $13.00 which is in stock."
Do you think i could possibly be the firing pin retaining pin being bent?
"Rod – You were sent the Uberti factory spring fresh out of the Uberti production line. The lighter spring is an aftermarket spring which is kept no where near the Uberti parts, so no there’s no chance a lighter one got mixed in.
Please look very carefully at your firing pin. Sometimes the retaining pin bends from the recoil of the gun and leave the firing pin too far away from the primers.
Also, if your gun is more than 20 years ago, Uberti was using a stronger mainspring then, but these are no longer available. Also guns that old had a longer firing pin, but this was also discontinued. If you want a longer firing pin, we suggest using the Pietta ones SAA55532 $13.00 which is in stock."
Do you think i could possibly be the firing pin retaining pin being bent?
Rebel-1
Member
Ok, i just took the firing pin out and compared it to the new one. The new one is a couple thousandths longer than my old one, so maybe my old pin was worn down. I replaced it with the new one. Now i will see how it does. Thanks guys. for all the help.
LAGS
Member
@ Rebel-1
Now that you have the new firing pin in place, Look at your fired primers.
See that the dent is Dead center of the primer, and there is no mark that indicates that the cylinder was still rotating into battery as the hammer falls.
I have some revolvers that that was the problem from a worn lifter or hand that didnt rotate the cylinder all the way, untill the hammer tripped.
These rotation marks are usually more visable on the primers that don't fire on the first strike.
Read your missfired primers more than the ones that do go off.
Now that you have the new firing pin in place, Look at your fired primers.
See that the dent is Dead center of the primer, and there is no mark that indicates that the cylinder was still rotating into battery as the hammer falls.
I have some revolvers that that was the problem from a worn lifter or hand that didnt rotate the cylinder all the way, untill the hammer tripped.
These rotation marks are usually more visable on the primers that don't fire on the first strike.
Read your missfired primers more than the ones that do go off.
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