Walker Issues?

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rodwha

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I've all too often read of the Uberti short arbor, but I've not heard of that problem, or any others (aside from the loading lever dropping) with the Walker. Do these work well right out of the box or is there a bit of fitting or modifying necessary?

Do these suffer from spent cap jamming?
 
Bought one new, Uberti, in July past. No problems. Maybe 4 hundred rounds. The lever dosen't even drop until I exceed 40 grains.
Yes a cap will once in a while make it to the works, but the gun is so massive I have never had a little old soft copper cap stop it.
 
I'd certainly modify the loading lever catch as I'd intend on putting 50+ grns of 3F Olde E or T7 through it with a ball, though I'd see about using my 195 grn bullet that's .460" long for hunting with if I don't have another bullet designed that's heavier.

The massive capacity is part of why you'd want a Walker right?
 
My Uberti Walker definately has a short arbor. I haven't adjusted it, and if I push it in hard the cylinder gap closes to contact.


Willie

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That can be fixed, have you seen the vid. of the '51 Navy that brushhippie fans?

45 Dragoon
 
No issues with my ancient ASM Walker. The loading lever never drops, it eats caps for breakfast and shoots one hole groups all day long. Cleans the dust out of the range roof rafters too!
 
I'd be hesitant to shoot 50grs 777 in my Walker. I heard of one guy sending the barrel assembly down range with a full load of T7. It came apart right at the wedge cutout. Shooting 50grs FFFg Goex I managed to crush the wedges on two of my Walkers which opened up the cylinder gaps considerably. I was glad it was the wedges getting squeezed and not the wedge cutout getting stretched. After that I settled on 44grs of FFg+wad+.454 ball+over ball grease and no problems. The lever is less likely to come down with the softer shooting FFg.
 
There's a fellow who hunts hogs with his Walker and uses 66 grns of 2F Triple 7 with a ball. I asked why the 2F and he stated it kept the pressures lower and was more accurate for him.

If 50 grns were a max load it would seem you may as well just have a Dragoon.

I want a Walker mostly for the history behind it as it was designed by a Texas Ranger for his group, but also because it's the pistol that put Colt back into business.

And then there's the fact that it's one hell of a pistol! My ROA usually turns heads with a 35-40 grn charge. I can only imagine the amount of thunder 60 grns would create!
 
I shoot mine with 2F BP too. It turns EVERYONE's head at the range.

They then take selfies holding it and try to video the belching flame and smoke when its fired too.
 
Do you use real BP? What kind? Have you tried various powders through it?
 
^^^^

I use real BP and fill 'er up. Accuracy best with 40 Grains, Fire and flame best with 60. Loading lever retention is OK to about 50 grains. I've not hyet filed the retainer with a notch to hold better but that's easy to do. Moving your left hand up to the thing to slap up the lever as you bring the muzzle up to cock and let the old cap fall out is second nature to any Walker shooter.

I've fixed many a short arbor in my day, but not yet gotten to the Walker.


Willie

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Most will shoot well out of the box, it's the putting it back together exactly the same everytime thats the real prob. If the arbor is too short, how do you keep a consistant barrel / cyl gap? The barrel will be off center as well, canted up or down. How ever it ends up, it's the consistancy that your after. A gun that is different everytime you put it back together may be the best or worst gun you have, every time.

45 Dragoon
 
I use a feller gauge as I tap in the wedge. It's a piece of copy paper folded over once to give me a .007" spacer. Copy paper is typically .0035" thick, folded one = .007" which is the gap I like. You can also use a real feeler gauge of go to a copy shop or office supply and buy a sheet or two of .007" thick paper sold for specialized printing. Wehn I am ready to tap in the wedge I put the paper between the cylinder and barrel. Every few taps I tug on the paper to see if the cylinder is starting to bite it. Once it gets a mild bite I pull it out and am done setting the gap.
 
" it's the putting it back together exactly the same everytime thats the real prob"

The real problem is that the arbor is too short. Fix that and the assembly problem disapears. With a correctly fitted arbor you can use a 16 ounce ball peen hammer to set the wedge and the cylinder gap won't change.

Using a feeler guage is a workaround... setting the arbor with a shim is the fix. It's a half hour of fun on the bench. Just dio it! ;-)


Willie

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My Uberti Walker and Dragoon have been more problem-free than most replicas. They are perfectly timed, have light triggers and smooth actions and are easy to clean due to the large component parts. The spare hand/spring assemblies I bought -but havn't needed are drop-in fits I tie the walker lever up to preserve the lever latch. Otherwise, it always drops down as I have never used less than 55 grains or substitute volumne equivalent with ball or less than 45 with picket bullets.
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^^ We are saying the same thing in different ways.

My first replica C&B revolver was my Uberti Walker, and it's been a lot of fun. It's also well finished, properly timed, has a great trigger, and like you I've been successful in shooting it well after setting the gap correctly by setting the wedge and watching the gap. I'll get to the arbor when I can.

Willie

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I have a Walker, and a 2nd Mod Dragoon for sale. they have treso nipple, and nice actions. they have never been fired. I bought them in 2007.
Just never got around to firing them, so if any ones interested send me a PM.

Rebel Dave
 
OK, what is a short arbor and how do you fix it? I know what the arbor is, but how is it short? Is it just the slot for the barrel wedge that is cut too far toward the rear, causing the cylinder to bind, or is it the total length of the arbor?
 
^^ Total length. If it's too short the frame is actually bent up as you install the wedge and the cylinder gap will close and often bind. There are tons of other posts on the problem and how to fix it. Basically you shim it a bit longer using any of a number of ways. One is drilling the end of the arbor, putting in a setscrew, and adjusting it so the arbor bottoms out in it's hole exactly as the two locating pins in the frame/barrel interface exactly bottom out. Use the search function to find posts with photos, etc.

Willie

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Pretty much what Willie said. I have my method but i use the set screw iin the end of the arbor to adjust the wedge key way opening.
 
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