want schooling on blackpowder shotguns please??

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midland man

midland man

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I have beening thinking about in the near furture about buying a 12 or 10 gauge bp double barrel shotgun so what the min/max loads recommended for these two gauges and I want to hunt so what barrel lengths are best for small and large game and any other info will be appreciated?? thanks!
 
I have a Pedersoli 10 gauge double. I haven't shot it much, but my best was using cylinder (screw in) chokes with plastic power pistons, the shot inside those, and a card over. It seems equal to a modern 12 gauge 2-3/4.
It's a bit heavy, and I wonder if I would have enjoyed the 12 gauge more for handling, although it probably would have a little less 'bang'.
 
A good loading book or reference is a good start as what's good in my long barrelled single shot 12 bore might not suit your gun.
The Lyman Blackpowder Handbook and Loading Manual is a good guide.
This site is also useful : http://www.tbullock.com/bpsg.html

For clays I use 60 grains of BP under felt wads, 1ounce of shot and card over shot card.
 
It was shown long ago that the best patterns were a square load of equal volume powder to shot. And it seems it was also found that the column size was also important.

I want to bore a .50 cal Lyman barrel to 28 ga. According to their .54 cal max load it can handle 90 grns of 3F or 110 grns of 2F with a 450 grn conical. That would easily allow me to use a bit over an ounce of shot. However I've been told because of the longer shot column it won't produce a good pattern.

http://www.circlefly.com/html/muzzleloaders.html

However I aim to try a heavier load such as what is suggested for the 16 ga using 75 grns with an ounce of shot with a screw in full choke. If it doesn't work it will still make a great small game gitter. If it does I may have a turkey gun.
 
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Rodwha, I have a factory version of what you are planning. TC made a 56 cal smoothie Renegade. I found one that a guy with more money than I had fitted with Briley choke tubes. Great little 28 gauge shotgun.
OP, square loads, equal powder, and shot, by VOLUME, work great. For hunting, I used 1 1/4 oz of 5 or 6 shot measured out of a dipped. One .135 card, one lured 1/2" fiber between and a milk carton disc on top.
 
Was your 1 1/4 oz load used in that .56 cal smoothbore? If so what was your powder charge and how did it pattern using a choke?

I've wondered about the square load being the better pattern maker, though, from what I think I understand is that a slightly heavier shot load will create a denser pattern, is this is concerning a cylinder bore for the most part. I'm wondering if a choke would make all the difference.

I've mostly talked about this on a traditional forum where modern chokes would have my post deleted.

I had looked into jug choking, which I'd prefer, but can't find anyone who does a smaller gauge such as the 28.
 
That was for a 12 gauge. I have a single I made with a Joe Mellot 36" full choke barrel. I used it in a Navy Arms "Magnum" double also.
Renegade patterns well with 1oz shot in either of the tubes with choke. Not so well in the cylinder choke tube. It was for ball.
I have jugged 12s, made sweat on external chokes and swaged chokes on barrels. A little constriction makes a tremendous amount of difference.
Our old spun cup wads, made from milk carton discs and run through a die also help. One cup down over the powder, one cup up under the shot.
 
The "square load" in cartridge shot guns is not an optimal load. Reducing the black powder charge by 15% while retaining the original shot charge makes for a much more even, well distributed pattern.
 
Works fine in mine, your results may vary. Every shotgun is unique. Enjoy what works for you.
 
I've tried a "Square Load" in my Pedersoli 12 gauge double due to the numerous recommendations. It worked for me so I stuck with it. I found it so very much satisfying rabbit hunting. I don't think I'd ever part with it.
 
Noz said:
The "square load" in cartridge shot guns is not an optimal load. Reducing the black powder charge by 15% while retaining the original shot charge makes for a much more even, well distributed pattern.
Click to expand...
This is correct. A square load is rarely ever an optimal load. It's simply the load to start with as you pattern your shotgun. If you're blowing a hole in your pattern, back off of the powder or add a bit more shot, or both. Work it till you get a fairly even distribution of shot with the choke(s) you're using (or cylinder bore, whichever). Another thing to consider are the wads used. I find that one over powder nitro card wad is all I need over the powder and under the shot. I have added a 1/8" lubed felt wad over that, but it didn't change anything that I could tell. I have the Pedersoli double 10 gauge. Mine doesn't seem to like thick wad columns. YMMV. I do use thicker wads in black powder shot shells though.
 
I hate to ask this as I am green to this part of the game but whats the difference about a square load vs a regular load?? sorry to sound dumb but wanted to understand what were talking about?
 
Not to sound like a broken record, but......

The NRA has an excellent Muzzle loading shot gun basic firearms safety course. You can order the text from them yourself if there is not an NRA certified instructor for MZ Shotgun near you offering a class.

-kBob
 
I would suggest a 12 gauge, simply because components are more available.

More shot than powder will, generally give denser patterns but with less velocity and energy. More powder than shot will generally have the opposite effect.

Some suggest plastic shot cups to tighten patterns with heavy loads. I don't use them. I make paper shot cups that work very well and are preloaded.

Start with the square load and experiment.

Barrel length is a personal preference. My trade gun is 36 inches, my trap gun is 30 and my field guns are 24 to 28. (These are all BP guns.)

Ironhand
 
Ironhand54 said:
I would suggest a 12 gauge, simply because components are more available.

More shot than powder will, generally give denser patterns but with less velocity and energy. More powder than shot will generally have the opposite effect.

Some suggest plastic shot cups to tighten patterns with heavy loads. I don't use them. I make paper shot cups that work very well and are preloaded.

Start with the square load and experiment.

Barrel length is a personal preference. My trade gun is 36 inches, my trap gun is 30 and my field guns are 24 to 28. (These are all BP guns.)

Ironhand
Click to expand...
those paper shot cups interest me, sounds pretty cool! can you tell me what the min/max loads for the 12 gauge shotgun and how you make those shot cups? thanks! :)
 
okay question the bp shotguns at Dixie I am looking at do not have full choke and I like a full choke shotgun so is there not bp shotguns made with full chokes?
 
I don't think so. It makes loading from the muzzle rather difficult.

I've figured I'd add a screw in choke system to a 28 ga as there's not much shot to begin with, though I intend to experiment with larger shot/powder combos.

Another option is jug choking where it opens up and comes back to bore size which works like a choke. I can't anyone who does this with a 28 ga, which I'd prefer over a screw in system.
 
okay guys there was a comment earlier about getting stuff for the 12g was easier to get than the 10g so up with that and what is and isn't easy to get for both gauges??
 
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