What do I need for a 10 ring rimfire rifle?

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clutch see if Boyd's Stocks can help with a stock for you. They allready make savages wood stock. Cost are low too compaire to many specialty companies.Look to DIP or savagegunsmithing for bottom metal that you will need also. See if Beartooth Products can help with a soft plyable comb kit that may help your stock and I have seen a kydex adjustable combs that you can bolt to your stock and are adjustable up and down to help with finding the right height. Go to rimfirecentral and drop down to the savage section for more info and choice. Even the trigger pull you have now can be dropped down to around 1.8oz maybe a bit less with no parts needed. You might find your rifle needs a few hundred rounds before fliers stop and groups stay tighter. Ammo, like others said, try most you can find but bulk stuff typicaly doesn't shoot great. wolf/sk seems to shoot well in most and cheaper federal 711b works well for cheaper ammo but like most copper washed ammo , need a bit more cleaning.
 
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"I'm trying to find the right ammo for my stable of rim fire rifles or failing that, I need to buy a rifle and the right ammo to shoot the ten ring of a standard 50 yard smallbore target."

"So let us skip a head to buying a rifle and the ammo it would like. What rifles would I need to look at. I prefer receiver sights with the provision to mount a scope."

"Price is a concern"

Looking back at Clutch's original question, I'd have to suggest the CMP Kimber 82G as the only logical choice to fill his needs. $423.00 to your door. Comes with more than adequate aperature sights, is dovetailed for scope and also has scope mounting blocks as standard. As far as accuracy goes, if you can't hold the 10-ring with this rifle (with apertures), it ain't the gun. Add a decent scope, and now you're talking X-ring capable.
 
My svage fv-sr will stay in the 10 ring with ferderal 922a and allmost relyable with wolf rifle match ,allmost. It is box stock after 500 rounds. Now my eyes are junk so that is with a scope and the rifle does not come with sites sooo that cheating I guess. I have changed stocks to a boyd's lam stock more for looks than function as it is a standard design , nothing fancy. I have 273 in a rifle new. I also know not all don't shoot well out of the box . Some are better some not so good. Cheaper prodution rifles. One local guy has a kinber and it is not a great shooter, luck of the draw. His bsa heavy barreled custom is just flat out an amassing rifle so i know it ain't him. Money is spent on a savage now so let him find out its limits. Maybe also be a good one.
 
Jeff,

You probably should check either your stock mounting screws or scope mounts for tightness. Maybe the scope? POI should not be wandering. I can't believe that it's a Savage thing, If so, I wouldn't want to own one. Kimbers don't wander.
 
You probably should check either your stock mounting screws or scope mounts for tightness. Maybe the scope? POI should not be wandering. I can't believe that it's a Savage thing, If so, I wouldn't want to own one. Kimbers don't wander.

its the mounting screws.....a dab of loc-tite and tighten them down and youll be all set.

i had the same thing happen with mine........shooting dead on......change targets, shooting off to the left......turns out my front action screw loosened a bit.

dab of thread locker, and re-tighten.....back on target again.
 
Gee whiz guys. Don't forget to remind me to breathe. You guys really think I'm that new to this stuff? Look at the number of posts I have here. I've been shooting for 48 years. You'd think I would have learned to check the screws on the scope by now, wouldn't you? Please at least try to ascertain what the person's level of knowledge is before you try to teach them to crawl. I do appreciate the help but let's face it, anyone with half a brain knows to check the action screws and the scope mount screws. Trust me that isn't it. It is a Savage thing. I use a torque screwdriver and I know exactly the best setting for my Savage's action screws. I should after firing as many rounds as I have through it for the past 2 years.

that would be nice if your post count had any correlation at all to your shooting experience..... hell, ide be an IPSC grandmaster by now if you tallied all my posts on gun forms.

you simply stated you had X problem.......you never said you checked anything.

so dont be surprised when you get the common solution to X problem as a result.
 
Jeff, sorry if my suggestions were offensive to you; it certainly wasn't intended that way. If the performance is erractic but still has some familiar pattern to it, it's likely due to a mechanical reason. Even using cheap .22 ammunition, it's hard to believe that the gun would behave that, shall we say, predictably, unpredictable.:D Is it possible that the recticle assembly inside the scope has come loose and is moving around?

BTW- Where did you hear about this "Savage thing"? I'd like to follow-up with it for my own curiousity.
 
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thats odd, because ive never heard of this problem before......havent experienced it with my rifle......and ive never heard of anyone else with this problem.


it really makes no sense for a properly maintained and properly shooting rifle to have wondering groups.....

the only thing other than the action screws that i can think of that would cause this, assuming its not shooter error, would be problems with ammo, either inconsistent ammo, or different lots of ammo.

perhaps heavy leading or a knick in the muzzle crown.
 
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I would look at ignition all around as a potential issue. I'd start with cleaning the firing pin and it's channel. After that, I'd look to clean up any burrs or very rough machine marks. If that looks fine, just a light oiling. If you still have problems, I'd look at replacing the firing pin spring. It's amazing how much a new fp spring can solve.

If things still aren't coming around I'd look at the shape of the firing pin. You want the firing pin to be as wide as possible as well as striking toward the center of the case first. A lot of factory rifles have the heaviest part of the strike at the edge and have the fp tapered to a bit of a point. To fix this may be tough but some have attempted it with good results. This comes from the wisdom of Bill Calfee, which agree with some of his theories or not, he sure knows how to make an accurate rimfire.
 
Jeff,

OK, let's rule out what you've already tried, to try and better identify the problem. Give us some more information to work with here, including what ammunition you used, and how many times you've seen this occur. Are we talking about the 10 ring on an A23-5 target? That's a pretty generous target size. I'm sure there's a logical reason for the problem. Although I don't own a Savage, I've looked closely at them and seen a number of them in action and can't believe that it's an inherent design problem that causes this problem.
 
jeff56, have you tried lapping the barrel?

i would also suggest bedding the action also.

after doing both of those, my grouping size shrunk dramatically, and it was FAR more consistent between different brands of ammo.
 
Since I started this thread, I might as well post a follow up.

I bought a Savage FVT and restocked it, put a T36 scope on, fed it all sorts of expensive ammo and ended up sending it back because I didn't notice it had a horrible crown until too much time was put into this. Savage sent me a new rifle which was a lot better but not good enough.

I picked up a CZ453 Varmint that was a lot better but still not what I wanted.

Then I saw the 82G rusty's being offered by the CMP. It took 1/2 a year before I could get a chance to shoot it with the irons off the bench.

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I just wish I had purchased two of them. :banghead:
 
Look around for a used Stevens Model 19 NRA. It will shoot with the VERY best of todays modern super duper target rifles. They came with Lyman target peep sights and they are capable of 1 hole 50yrd. groups.
 
.22 rf target shooting is more complex than most people realize. The round is an old and poorly designed one that is extremely sensitive to the precision of the rifle and the manufacture of the ammo itself. Quality target rifles are usually single shot which gives them the advantage of a much stiffer receiver. The receivers of the Savage rifles are very springy due to the large cutouts for the magazine and the trigger assembly and are very sensitive to the tightening of the action screws. I have shot several new Savage rifles and I can honestly say the some will perform very well with decent ammo and there are others than will not. Some triggers are very smooth while others are very gritty and require fine tuning. The crowns are another problem that can be addressed by a good gunsmith. The tolerances are not as tight and not as closely checked as they are in a higher quality rifle.
The other problem with .22rf is the ammo and the link below will give you a good idea of how difficult it is to produce any .22rf never mind top quality match ammo.www.americanrifleman.org/articles/impossible-22-rimfire
 
Have you tired a Remington 510 TargetMaster as there getting pricey as the bolt will bring $160 alone.. this is a Nov 1946 model with a 26" barrel as my father got it as a kid brand new and shot maybe 100 times since new.

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Are you qualified to buy from CMP? If so, I'd maybe start here: http://www.thecmp.org/Sales/rifles.htm - look in surplus for Kimber Model 82.
If your intended use is strictly offhand shooting, I'd stay away from the 82. It's too heavy for that application, IMO. If you're going for position shooting, where you won't be holding the rifle up unsupported all the time, then the 82 is a good bet.
 
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