What exactly is CFE223

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Ron Go

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What makes this a Copper Fouling Eraser compared to H335?

Are they identical except for the addition of some dopants to the CFE that bind with the copper to turn them into particulates? Does it burn at a different temperature to prevent less copper from being vaporized/deposited? Does it have a longer burn time/path so that copper is moved out the end of the barrel, and if so, what length can it travel?

While I know we are unlikely to learn the secret sauce it would be helpful to at least know the mode of action. I find I use more things I understand so I would guess they would sell more powder if they gave some basic information on it. It certainly isn't to keep their competitors in the powder manufacturing industry from knowing as they have the resources to figure it out (I assume).

Would be interested in any information or theories anybody may have on the subject.

Thanks, Ron
 
Based on my experience, cfe223 produces overall higher velocities than h335.

I think the "dopant" is tin.
 
Compared to H335 i find it to be a bit smokey. I have 8lbs of it at home that i got a few months ago. all i can think is that it was very cold out the day i shot it back in October. Maybe it is temp sensitive?
 
Interesting. So it looks like they are trying to mop up the copper vapor by creating a copper alloy, sort of like a brass, to keep the copper from vapor depositing in the barrel? Neat strategy. Ok. I'll give it a try.
 
No I didn't get copper fouling but was just curious since they came out with a product to eliminate it. If it was equivalent then I could use it. Guess I am a victim of good marketing?

Also made me wonder why other powders don't have the same component as presumably it should do the same in other calibers/situations which may be more prone to copper fouling.
 
One or more of the Reloder series has a copper fouling remover, probably tin of some sort also. I think it's RL-15, but I'm not positive. I know that it's one that's used by NATO for loading either 5.56 or 7.62.

Matt
 
With a .223 varmint style barrel I've always battled with copper fouling, esp when using the soft varmint bullets. I finally solved the problem by experimenting with a (very) slow ball powder in conjunction with a Chrony, and painstakingly cleaning the barrel between 5-shot groups. The first shot out of a clean barrel is very informative: velocity increases as pressure increases until the bullet starts to obturate and plug the barrel, at which point the first-shot velocity starts to decrease. I stop adding pressure at a point just before that first-shot velocity starts to decrease. Subsequent shots can then benefit from the soft powder fouling. In my case the "window" is pretty tight: 1/10 grain makes a world of difference. It's a laborious process, but rewarding if you're using a bolt action rifle. Can't speak for the autoloaders using those rock-hard bullets, that's a whole 'nother ball game.

I don't know what CFE contains but I have no doubt that it works or it wouldn't sell. Indeed, if it's the right speed I may try it myself to get more shots between cleanings, but it's not the only answer to copper fouling.
 
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