What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today

I did some digging around in my shop and made a pleasant discovery. I already have on hand a weaver tactical picatinny extended multi slot base scope mount for a Ruger American Short Action part # 99469. So I got inquisitive. I went to my gun safe and pulled mine out and measured the receiver ring and it is almost identical in diameter to an Arasaka receiver ring. So it will fit on an Arasaka type 99 action beautifully without any modifications. Now I am hell bent on making one of my actions into a sporter.
 
I did some digging around in my shop and made a pleasant discovery. I already have on hand a weaver tactical picatinny extended multi slot base scope mount for a Ruger American Short Action part # 99469. So I got inquisitive. I went to my gun safe and pulled mine out and measured the receiver ring and it is almost identical in diameter to an Arasaka receiver ring. So it will fit on an Arasaka type 99 action beautifully without any modifications. Now I am hell bent on making one of my actions into a sporter.
That's good to know.
 
Looked last night to see if shaw barrels wait time got better they did now about 16 weeks for the 9.3x62 barrel I want to order soon. Then I look at the in stock specials section and was shocked to see 2 in stock, there 22" with 11° crown. I wanted a 24" with Recessed crown but for $190 in stock I can live with a 22" barrel. I messaged my buddy to see if he can get the ffl discount and it's $ 156 so $180.75 to my door. Of course I'm broke this week lol.
 
I installed a Jewell trigger (HVRTSBR-A) into Rem 700 in 7mm Mag. Had to widen the right side (1/16") to give clearance for the safety. Which I had to reseal the wood afterwards. I set the trigger at 2.5 lbs. Test fired it, all good. Sure beats the 12# trigger that was in it.

My mill setup for working on stocks.
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Installed
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I repaired a set of Miculek grips that I just purchased. When attaching them they split. I was going to buy a new pair but someone on another site told me to use wood cement.

I bought some Gorilla Wood Cement, applied it and waited an hour. All dry filed down and sanded. The grips look just like new except for the different color of the Cement.
 
When I was disassembling Citori's I had a need for a good spring compression tool, better suited than the Brownells offering. Was walking thru the paint department @
Home Depot and noticed the shape of their paint can lid openers, free !, strong and perfect. Fitted to a large blank Brownells handle for good rotational control. Motivation to author a technical Anatomy Series Manual on the model.

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I thought this would be a nice thread.......

Just got a new SA-35, swapped out all of the springs and the ejector and the safety sear lever. Off to the range today.

I love Hi Powers and 1911's because just about anyone can take one down to a collection of parts and put them back together. Plus there is a lot of aftermarket support for custom parts (understatement when it comes to 1911's).
 
Well, the wood cement fixed the spits in my new grips but when testing them they aren't cut close enough for me to use my speed loaders so I'm back to my Hogues.

At the range today I adjusted my spring on my 617. I actually got to lighten it up a bit. I was getting strong hits using CCI Mini Mags. My Federal Ammo will fire with about 1 pound less weight so I'm happy.

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I purchased, and have maintained in pristine condition, this Browning Hi-Power with adjustable sights, new in the mid '80's; mfg. in Belgium, assembled in Portugal. The wood grips are handsome but I find them grip-less when shooting in a hot environment unless using shooting gloves. Many choose to remove the magazine disconnect to improve the feel of the 7.5 lb factory trigger pull; however, smoothing all the connecting parts carefully improves it nicely, kinda like a 1911 Series 80 or a heavy trigger pull revolver that is smoothed out.

The back-story on the Hi-Power as I understand it:


The Browning Hi-Power is a semi-automatic, single-action, 9 mm pistol. It is based on ideas conceived and patented in 1922 by American firearms inventor John Browning, and later patented by Fabrique Nationale d'Armes de Guerre (FN) of Herstal, Belgium. Browning died in 1926, before he had finished developing a production version. The design was fully developed and realized by Belgian arms designer Dieudonne Saive, working at FN.

The Hi-Power pistol is named for its 13-round magazine capacity, which was almost twice that of contemporary designs such as the Luger or Mauser 1910. The Hi-Power had the first functional double-column magazine of 9 mm Parabellum rounds, and was capable of holding 13 cartridges, with a 14th loaded in the chamber.

The Hi Power was designed in response to a French military requirement for a new service pistol, the Grand Rendement (Fr; "High Yield"), or alternatively Grand Puissance (literally "high power"). The French military's requirements were that the arm have a 10-round capacity, a magazine disconnect device, an 8-inch barrel, a magazine disconnect device, an external hammer, a positive safety, be robust and simple to disassemble and re-assemble, be capable of killing a man at 50 meters; it should be chambered for the same 9mm Parabellum cartridge that Germany used. It was to accomplish all of this without weighing more than 1kg (2.2 lb).

FN enlisted John Browning to design a new military sidearm conforming to this specification. Browning had previously sold the rights to his successful M1911 U.S. Army automatic pistol to Colt's Patent Firearms, and was therefore forced to design an entirely new pistol while working around the M1911 patents. Browning built two different prototypes for the project; one was a simple blowback design, while the other was operated with a locked-breech recoil system. Both prototypes utilized a new staggered magazine design to increase capacity without unduly increasing the pistol's grip size or magazine length.

The locked breech design was selected for further development and testing. This model was striker-fired, and featured a double-column magazine that held 16 rounds. The design was refined through several trials held by the Versailles Trial Commission.

In 1928, when the patents for the Colt Model 1911 had expired, Dieudonne Saive integrated many of the Colt's previously patented features into the Grand Rendement design, in the Saive-Browning Model of 1928. This version featured the removable barrel bushing and takedown sequence of the Colt 1911.

By 1931, the Hi-Power design incorporated a shortened 13-round magazine, a curved rear grip strap, and a barrel bushing that was integral to the slide assembly. By 1934, the Hi-Power design was complete and ready to be produced. It was first adopted by Belgium for military service in 1935 as the Browning P-35. Ultimately, France decided not to adopt the pistol, instead selecting the conceptually similar Mle. 1935.

The Browning Hi-Power has undergone continuous refinement by FN since its introduction. The pistols were originally made in two models: an "Ordinary Model" with fixed sights and an "Adjustable Rear Sight Model" with a tangent-type rear sight and a slotted grip for attaching a wooden shoulder stock. The adjustable sights are still available on commercial versions of the Hi-Power, although the shoulder stock mounts were discontinued during WW2. In 1962, the design was modified to replace the internal extractor with an external extractor, modestly improving reliability.

Standard Hi-Powers are based on a single-action design. Unlike modern 'double-action semi-automatic pistols, the Hi-Power's trigger is not connected to the hammer. If the pistol is carried with the hammer down, the shooter must manually operate the slide in order to cock the pistol. In common with the Colt 1911, the Hi-Power is therefore typically carried, in military use, with the hammer cocked and the safety catch on (a carry mode often called cocked and locked, or sometimes called Condition One).

The Hi-Power, like many other Browning designs, operates on the short-recoil principle, where the barrel and slide initially recoil together until the barrel is unlocked from the slide by a camming action. Unlike Browning's earlier Colt M1911, the barrel is not moved vertically by a toggling link, but instead by a hardened bar (locking block) which crosses the frame under the barrel and contacts a slot under the chamber, at the rearmost part of the barrel. The barrel and slide recoil together for a short distance but, as the slot engages the bar, the chamber and the rear of the barrel are drawn downward and stopped. The downward movement of the barrel disengages it from the slide, which continues rearward, extracting the spent case from the chamber and ejecting it. After the slide reaches the limit of its travel, the recoil spring brings it forward again, stripping a new round from the magazine and pushing it into the chamber. This also pushes the chamber and barrel forward. The cam slot and bar move the chamber upward and the locking lugs on the barrel reengage those in the slide.

The Hi-Power has two major flaws. The standard trigger pull is poor, especially for a single-action pistol. This disadvantage is a consequence of the Hi-power's magazine safety design, which was initially added to the model to meet the requirements of the French military in 1935. The standard Hi-Power magazine safety is connected directly to the trigger and is actuated by a plunger pressing on the surface of the magazine. This action of the plunger on the magazine adds grit to the trigger pull, and the required force to operate this feature adds weight as well. This problem is often resolved by either removing the magazine safety entirely, thus voiding the pistol's warranty, or by polishing the interface surfaces between the safety plunger and the magazine.

In addition, the pistol has a tendency to "bite" the web of the shooter's hand, between the thumb and forefinger. This bite is caused by pressure from the hammer spur, or alternatively by pinching between the hammer shank and grip tang. Many HP owners address this problem by altering or replacing the hammer.


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Finally worked up the courage this week to order a .250 radius jig to cut the tangs on a Colt Series 70 Reissue. In this case the work was not the terrifying factor but rather the pistol’s origin; my father’s only 1911which he gifted me some time ago when arthritis finally got the better of his hand strength.

Last week I carefully polished the flats to remove the idiot mark and notched the slide stop for easier insertion (log man mod). Once I looked things over and spent a day with it at the range slinging hardball I decided the ejection port needed enlarging as well.


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I broke out the files to begin the tedious process of slowly whittling away, knowing any slips would have me tears at the thought of ruining “dad’s” gun. But things went well, no damage done, and almost ready to flare the outside. ALMOST…Final numbers side to side on the dial calipers came out .503” to .500” and I’m NOT going to attempt to true it up!


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That led me to ordering the GS jig and a beautiful Stan Chen grip safety which all arrived yesterday. Documented for posterity, the pictures below show the progress. It isn’t fully cleaned up yet, and I’ll need to knock the shine down to the original matte texture, but overall I was pleased with the results.

Huge shout out to Harrison Design for their blending jig; this simple yet amazing fixture slips into the trigger track and uses an allen keyed screw to extend a pin that pushes the GS into its “resting” position to permit frame blending without a third hand holding it out. I’m a huge fan of John’s HD slide stop, just ordered one for this Colt as well, and I added his NM rear sight to this overhaul last week.

Grinding the first tang.
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Shaping lower tangs to blend.
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Side view of initial fit.
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Blending more than a KitchenAid.
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Almost there.
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Bobbed original Colt hammer for that retro-cool, save $80 look.
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Ed Brown radius jig and Harrison Design blending fixture that made it incredibly easy.
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Finally worked up the courage this week to order a .250 radius jig to cut the tangs on a Colt Series 70 Reissue. In this case the work was not the terrifying factor but rather the pistol’s origin; my father’s only 1911which he gifted me some time ago when arthritis finally got the better of his hand strength.

Last week I carefully polished the flats to remove the idiot mark and notched the slide stop for easier insertion (log man mod). Once I looked things over and spent a day with it at the range slinging hardball I decided the ejection port needed enlarging as well.


View attachment 1084163
I broke out the files to begin the tedious process of slowly whittling away, knowing any slips would have me tears at the thought of ruining “dad’s” gun. But things went well, no damage done, and almost ready to flare the outside. ALMOST…Final numbers side to side on the dial calipers came out .503” to .500” and I’m NOT going to attempt to true it up!


View attachment 1084165

View attachment 1084164
That led me to ordering the GS jig and a beautiful Stan Chen grip safety which all arrived yesterday. Documented for posterity, the pictures below show the progress. It isn’t fully cleaned up yet, and I’ll need to knock the shine down to the original matte texture, but overall I was pleased with the results.

Huge shout out to Harrison Design for their blending jig; this simple yet amazing fixture slips into the trigger track and uses an allen keyed screw to extend a pin that pushes the GS into its “resting” position to permit frame blending without a third hand holding it out. I’m a huge fan of John’s HD slide stop, just ordered one for this Colt as well, and I added his NM rear sight to this overhaul last week.

Grinding the first tang.
View attachment 1084166

Shaping lower tangs to blend.
View attachment 1084167

Side view of initial fit.
View attachment 1084168

Blending more than a KitchenAid.
View attachment 1084169

Almost there.
View attachment 1084170

Bobbed original Colt hammer for that retro-cool, save $80 look.
View attachment 1084171

Ed Brown radius jig and Harrison Design blending fixture that made it incredibly easy.
View attachment 1084172
Looks great
 
Speaking of older Colt 1911's.

Friend had an old 70 Series Colt 1911 missing a front sight; narrow tenon front sight style. He wanted a fiber optic installed.

1. Completely disassembled filthy truck-looking gun for thorough cleaning.

2. Used this HiViz 1911 wide-tenon host and carefully incrementally filed down the width of tenon to fit slide front sight mortise. Tape protected sight held in Palmgren angle vise. Fabricated a series of good size handles for holding various size file tangs.

3. Used both Brownells swaging tool and Loctite 620 close tolerance adhesive (belt & suspenders). Held sight with protected vise jaws with sight stabilized by vise throat base.

4. After adhesive set, swaged the tenon and used Dremel for removing excess to clear the 4-fingered collet bushing.

5. Scratch marks on right side of slide pre-existing; used a light touch with fine scotch brite pads longitudinally to easily remove them.

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