OP
OP
troy fairweather
Member
It's looking good, any parts you need have some floating around.
What gunsmithing or repairs have you done today
- Thread starter troy fairweather
- Start date
Trigger stop was the last part, and its arriving towards the end of the week.
AzShooter1
Member
Worked on my 1911 22 Colt Gold Cup Trophy from Walther today. I am having hammer follow occasionally. I've watched the videos and read many articles and it seems my problem is with the sear spring.
Everything in the gun is stock. I formed the center arm of the sear spring to give it more tension. This will help the disconnector and get the trigger to move forward faster. ( I Hope ).
If I can get it to work I intend to replace the sear, disconnector and hammer with a Wilson Combat kit that should give me a trigger pull of around 4.5 pounds.
When I first got the gun the trigger was 9 pounds but after firing over 1000 rounds it's smoothed out and is around 6 pounds but it doesn't break as smoothly as I want it to.
OP
OP
troy fairweather
Member
You have a butt stock, I've got one not the best but can be cleaned up. Think I have some barrel bands and a sight set from that era gun. Got a weaver scope base to I think. Some hammer spurs to.
He bought a new butt stock for it but it's got some cracks, The bands are original and pretty rotten..... Let me ask the dude if he cares enough to put up some cash for them.
OP
OP
troy fairweather
Member
Shock I have is cracked under the tang part of the wood, would be fine if glued up. Has some holes by the sling stud area that can be filled. It needs to be sanded and needs a butt plate. Not sure if these bands are much better I've got to find were I put them lol.
OP
OP
troy fairweather
Member
Picked up a cmc basic lower parts kit and a set of extended yhm ez take down pins, put them in the areo m4e1 lower. Now I just need a rifle stock or a carbine tube set, a barrel and bcg and it will be done. I want to order a larue trigger for it. Still not sure how to build this one, either a 6 arc r something for heavier 223 bullets.
wiscoaster
Member
Does making a tool count as "gunsmithing" if it's for fixing a gun? The firing pin set screw on my Enfield cocking piece was absolutely and positively frozen despite all the frozen scew tricks in my book. Not wanting to bugger the screw head (or much less to drill it out) I figured I needed a better and more secure fit into the screw slot and more torque than I could deliver by screwdriver. Thus I tried Dremeling a slotted-screw driver bit to fit the slot and with Crescent wrench to drive it with a goodly amount of torque unfroze the damn set screw without buggering it:
View attachment 1078798
View attachment 1078804
View attachment 1078798
View attachment 1078804
Last edited:
OP
OP
troy fairweather
Member
Yup it counts
OP
OP
troy fairweather
Member
That's cool, you check the local paper from were it happened or local town museum.
Transferring heat to a screw head with a fastener-head shaped soldering iron tip; illustration with 220-240 deg Centigrade solder melting.
PSA- using a magnet is a handy method to hold a small fastener in order to apply a drop of thread adhesive to its threads.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mushlfuey8pfao3/IMG_8357 copy.MOV?dl=0
PSA- using a magnet is a handy method to hold a small fastener in order to apply a drop of thread adhesive to its threads.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/mushlfuey8pfao3/IMG_8357 copy.MOV?dl=0
1976B.L.Johns.
Member
Good advice!
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
Made some progress on my mauser. Went to @troy fairweather's dad's to attempt to bend my bolt handle but his map gas torch just wasn't quite hot enough. So I took it yo the auto shop I work at and used acetylene torch which provided enough heat for the bend. I should have taken the whole rifle and optic because it wasn't bent enough to clear the eyepiece, a little dremel and file work and irs almost there.
doubleh
Member
I am occupied drinking my morning coffee today. Yesterday I did the complicated job of removing a red dot sight from a 15-22 and replacing it with a different type. From getting the gun out of the safe, walking out to the garage to do the change, and returning it to the safe probably took 10 minutes. I'm a slow walker.
wiscoaster
Member
There are a number of alternatives to hold small fasteners in order modify the threaded shank; pin vise, lantern chucks etc. I have found using simple HD galvanized mending plates with specific screw # sized clearance holes, drill press to hold magna-tip bit with compression into the fastener head in order to create dog pointed screws or just radius the tips for e.g. revolver grip screws exposed in the escutcheon. A little grease on the underside of the fastener to prevent marring the head, add / subtract thin polished plates to adjust the depth / control of the fastener axle. The jig is secured to the drill press deck with wing nut bolts. The height of the supporting hard wood blocks provide plenty of room to manage file application etc.
I am going to modify some Jacobs chucks, medical low speed high torque, and non-medical to accommodate small fasteners to use in the lathe; a restriction is the length of the chuck tri-jaws sucks up a lot of exposure length of the fastener axle to the lathe tool.
The medical Jacobs chucks a have rotating cylindrical mass above the chuck (the slightest resistant and it reverses direction to prevent over-boring the fastener hole) re used in orthopedic surgery to drive self-tapping fasteners into bone at low speed to prevent high speed frictional heat interaction that will enlarge the hole in thin bone (unlike thin veneer wood). The medical chucks have bored out central axis.....don't know why, but it is going to be handy to thread for the nylon compression screw.
I plan on using a plunge mill bit internally on the chuck shaft axis to provide a flat surface for most fasteners to seat the underside of the head with a nylon hex head screw to provide top-of-the-fastener compression for a rigid setup when it starts to spin in the lathe. We'll see. Standby.
I am going to modify some Jacobs chucks, medical low speed high torque, and non-medical to accommodate small fasteners to use in the lathe; a restriction is the length of the chuck tri-jaws sucks up a lot of exposure length of the fastener axle to the lathe tool.
The medical Jacobs chucks a have rotating cylindrical mass above the chuck (the slightest resistant and it reverses direction to prevent over-boring the fastener hole) re used in orthopedic surgery to drive self-tapping fasteners into bone at low speed to prevent high speed frictional heat interaction that will enlarge the hole in thin bone (unlike thin veneer wood). The medical chucks have bored out central axis.....don't know why, but it is going to be handy to thread for the nylon compression screw.
I plan on using a plunge mill bit internally on the chuck shaft axis to provide a flat surface for most fasteners to seat the underside of the head with a nylon hex head screw to provide top-of-the-fastener compression for a rigid setup when it starts to spin in the lathe. We'll see. Standby.
Last edited:
stillquietvoice
Contributing Member
I finished modifying my 98 mauser bolt handle it opens and closes with no issue. This is my first, many thanks go out to AL, Troy's dad and Troy for their help on turning this reciever a complete rifle. Still need to change out the safety, and complete the refinish on the stock, but at least it's a functional gun in 6.5x55 sweede.
A range report will come when I aquire all the components to load up some ammo, it's a new caliber for me so I need bullets dies and cases.
A range report will come when I aquire all the components to load up some ammo, it's a new caliber for me so I need bullets dies and cases.
wiscoaster
Member
It's good to know craftsmanship is still alive and well
EMC45
Member
- Joined
- Jul 20, 2008
- Messages
- 1,954
