What pistols seem to jam at shooting schools?

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albanian

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What brings this topic up is I was watching Guns and Ammo TV or some such show and they happened to show a line of shooters at Thunder Ranch and they were all firing at once in fairly rapid fire. One of the shooters had a jam with a Taurus PT-145 (I think) in the few seconds that they showed the shooters.

My question is pointed to anyone that has ever been to a shooting class like Thunder Ranch or has worked there and seen what guns typically do well and what guns tend to jam or break. I know most of the big schools have a 1911 gunsmith on site to repair breakdowns. That always made me feel a little nervous about 1911s. Why do they break down so much? How do guns like Glock and Ruger hold up?

I know any gun can and will jam or break but I am interested to see what guns jam or break during a class because I think that is more telling of what they will do in the real world. I know the class is a hard enviroment on the guns but I think if they make it through the classes with no issues, they should be decent on the street.
 
Any reports/reviews I've ever read that discussed your question mentioned 2 reasons, without going into specifics or names of particular firearms. One reason was personal reloaded ammo. The more prevalent cause was very tight custom pistols that hadn't been properly broken-in or proved for reliability.
Not exactly what I think you were asking, but I hope it helps.
 
from what I have seen subcompact guns with barrels of less than 4" tend to be more sensetive to ammo and grip than midzied and full sized guns. in the case of any good quality midsize\full size pistol the problems are usually related to bad reloads, cheapo surplus substandard ammo, etc, as allready noted.
 
By jam, I take it to mean "malfunction" versus two parts crammed together that lock up the mechanism

At Thunder Ranch in Texas, I was paired with a guy shooting an aluminum framed Kimber. It died at the end of day 2 of 5. He shot his spare gun for the rest of the week. One of the instructors commented that aluminum framed Kimbers didn't seem to do well day after day with the sort of training done at TR in the summer time. As I recall, temps were 100+ and over the rocks of the range something like 115 degrees.

I asked about the Kimber issue and he said he had no clue as to whether it was actually the gun, maintenance, or what, but just something he had noticed. I mentioned having one and come to find out, he did as well.

The broken Kimber turned out to be a spring issue, something that would have absolutely nothing to do with the Texas heat, but yet the gun failed as others had.

--------

From my classes, the folks with the most problems tend to me those that are neophytes to guns or shooting a completely new or different platform. Guns of Neophytes tend to be less adequately maintained, such as not lubed enough, may not be broken in fully before the start of class, and by being a neophyte, the shooter tends to introduce additional problems into the mix via things such as limp wristing.

I have acted as a safety guy behind the firing line for a few CHL classes. There have been several folks in those few classes who showed up to the class with little or no gun experience, had a brand new gun straight out of the box, and their first shots, sometimes for both the student and gun, were while doing their shooting qualification. Regardless of the make and model of gun, several end up malfunctioning under such circumstances.
 
Flamesuit on! Of all the guns I've seen breakdown during a class by far the most common is the 1911 in it's various incarnations. Just reporting what I've seen. Now having said that I have a S&W 1911 SC and a SA LW Compact that are totally reliable. Some are, some aren't. Of course you've got a zillion 1911 makers out there anymore. That is probably why you can see such wide variation in performance.
 
I would guess 1911 due to my experiences with their ammo pickiness and the fact that out of the box, they usually need help. Some don't like anything, but ball and people try to feed 185 hollowpoints in 'em. Etc, etc, such a wide variety of makers of 1911s, some high quality like Kimber, some not so great. Then there's the not broke in tight guns.

1911s require dedication to work proper for the shooter. The shooter really needs to be a "gun person" and understand what makes the guy tick. I've lived with 'em and know how to make 'em jam proof, but you have folks out there that read all the Zines, become convinced it's 1911 or nothing, and know diddly squat about 'em.
 
IMO, the reason some people have the impression that 1911s fail or that some of the bigger camps have 1911 smiths on site is because that model dominates in numbers. There are simply a ton of them out there.

I have not yet had the pleasure of attending a training course, but when I do I'll be taking a 1911. :D
 
Strange, but in two major wars, a lot of "conflicts" and for years afterward, the M1911 and M1911A1 gained an enviable reputation for near absolute reliability.

And then came the clones, made of everything from old beer cans to hardened chewing gum, with parts made of plastic, cast iron, and about everything but forged steel (costs too much). And thrown together by kids being paid minimum wage with quality control that consists of throwing the thing in a box and shipping it to the suckers. Of course they don't work. Most don't wear out because they break long before even the soft hammers and sears smear off. And the makers don't give a flat damn whether they work or not, since they are making big boys' toys that have the same relationship to the real gun world as those Japanese flintlock wall-hangers.

Now I will hear how good the guns are from the guys who spent $2500 on a gun that has been back to the factory ten times before it even reached 200 rounds. Tell me about their service department and how cute the girl sounds as she tells you that your gun is an exception and they have never had any other problem. (She practices sounding sincere, as she uses that line 100 times a day.)

Jim
 
From my experience, the only guns that I have seen have a malfunction are 1911's. I have not seen a Glock, Sig, H&K or XD have any sort of malfunction.
 
I have a hunch that the 1911 is the firearm most likely to give its owner a delusion of being a gunsmith. I bet that doesn't do any wonders for reliability stats.
 
I have shot my Glock 17 for 1000 rounds, no cleaning, and no malfunctions. It even smells dirty. The Glock 26 I have I'm not cleaning either. I want to see how it does.

If I didn't clean my Kahr, I'm not sure how well it would do. It likes to be "wet and clean." The Sig would probably do well like the Glock, but I'm not going to run a Bentley through the woods for bravado.
 
Based on the class I took, the jammers tend to be expensive 1911s, new to the owner and not yet broken in.

Whereas my Ruger P90 kept right on banging. Yes, I was tempted to bring a Makarov. . . .:)
 
Unless you are looking at a school that teaches law enforcement officers using current service pistols, the worst jam-o-matics are various 1911 style pistols. The core reasons were just pointed out by Jim Keenen, who has the kind of experience to know. Generally speaking most of them are built too tight, and have tight so-called match-grade chambers. When you fire them extensively within a short period of time using lead-bulleted reloads the chambers get fouled, and if they aren't keep cleen they start to jam.

There is a big difference between the 1911 "big-boy toys" that are made today, and the "real weapons" that were made in times past. :scrutiny:
 
I hear that one, Old Fuff. The old skool mil-spec 1911s actually clicked a bit while you walked, their construction was so loose to prevent fouling. I have to say that if I spent close to a grand, if not more, for some super-fly, double-dong customized pistol and it jammed up on the range, I would f'ing go ballistic. :fire:

If my $280 Ruger doesn't jam ever then my $1000+ custom jobby bloody well better not, either...
Mark(psycho)Phipps( HAHAHA! )
 
Does anyone else notice how much dirtier a .45 gets then a .40? Do you think that might have something to do with it? I shoot my Walther .40 100 rnds, and you can hardly tell - yet the Colt is caked with powder. Also, I shot a 1918 original 1911 gov't - and that pistol was as tight and solid as most modern day mil-specs - don't think they were really originally all that sloppy to begin with.
 
No, the older 1911 pistols were not "sloppy" loose to begin with. Some 1911A1's made during World War Two were looser in some dimensions so that parts made by different contractors would interchange. The truly "sloppy loose" ones were those that went through several rebuilds between 1945 and the early 1980's. Some of these were totally worn out...

But they still worked.

Commercial Colts made between 1912 through the mid 1960's were reasonably tight, but loose in the right places. They worked, and they didn't have to go through any breaking-in period.

Tuner runs thousands upon thousands of lead-bulleted handloads through his pet "range-beaters." and they function without a bobble. If you look up the threads you can find where he took a Springfield Armory Mil-Spec, made a few minor modifications, and ran thousands of rounds through that one without any hangups.

But the current makers produce far too many jam-o-matics..,:cuss:

And so long as the money keeps rolling in they don't care a bit. :banghead:
 
Shield 20:

Does anyone else notice how much dirtier a .45 gets then a .40? Do you think that might have something to do with it? I shoot my Walther .40 100 rnds, and you can hardly tell - yet the Colt is caked with powder.

The reason is that many .45 loads are underpowered, and the case doesn't seal in the chamber. This allows carbon and powder residue to seep back into the breech area. .40 S&W loads are usually hotter and generate greater pressure. So you don't get the same problem.
 
I have to concur with the others. My observation/experience is that high-end/tarted-up/tricked-out 1911's seem to have the most problems, but I have seen Glocks w/too many aftermarket doodads also have those parts fail or induce malfs. Box-stock midgrade 1911's seem to run fine, same for stock Glocks and other brands. I had a CZ 85 break (ambi slide stop) on me in a one-day affair. Shot w/a fellow who had to swap out his P7M8 'cause it got way too hot way too soon, but it ran fine. A guy w/2 Para's had the front sight fall of of one and he had to use his spare, from which he said the factory front sight had also fallen off previously, during a match. One guy's crappy, light reloads caused him issues (don't remember the gun), and he switched to factory stuff.
 
Old Fluff is correct in that the original 1911s were NOT loose. I have a 1911 in about 90% condition that is tighter than brand new Springfields and Colts I have seen at gun shows. He attributes looser 1911s to relaxed tolerances to make parts more interchangible, which may be right, but also because they still functioned well and had 'combat accuracy' of about 4" or less groups at 25 yards (or so I have read). The relaxed tolerances made the gun cheaper to produce.

I have participated in 3 Glock v. 1911 1000 round matches, 2 in Oklahoma and 1 in Texas. The one in Texas was the second or 3rd held by TDSA south of Dallas. The Glockers gave the 1911 folks a lot of crap about the first 1911 failing the year before at 46 rounds. At the match I attended and the 2nd one in Oklahoma, the first guns out of the matches were Glocks that fired only one round and did not manage to cycle the second round. In fact, Glocks were the first guns to fail in all three matches of which two were won by 1911s.

Of course the stats don't mean much if not taken in context. Basically, if the gun malfunctioned at all, you were out of the official competition. You were not allowed to clean the gun, lube, or anything else. So if you pulled the trigger and the gun didn't fire, you were out. That could be due to bad ammo, lack of lube, or failure to insert a magazine.

Generally speaking, there were more Glocks that finished the matches or were close to finishing the matches than 1911s. So the impression is that Glocks tended to do better over all, but were not the winners of 2 of the 3 matches. If you ran a Glock, there was a good chance you would be out early or fairly late if you did not win the match.

Of interest also is the fact that non 9mm Glocks tended to NOT do nearly as well as 9mm Glocks. As it turns out, 1 1911, and 1 Glock that won these matches were 9mm guns. The one other winning 1911 was a .45 acp.

Sort of when started by TDSA, as I recall, the issue was settling the great Glock v. 1911 debate as to which guns were better. The problem there and in the later matches is one of sample control. There has been no real consideration as to whether there is a benefit or shortcoming of using particular calibers. There was no control for gun maintenance, ammo brand or load, how used the gun was, or the shooter's manipulation of the gun (I DQ'd in the first match due to weak hand one handed shooting limp-wristed stovepipe, for example, and another guy topping off mags between sets forgot to re-insert a mag before his next stage and his gun ran dry and the hammer dropped on an empty chamber as he had failed to put a mag into the gun).

Plus, such tests with so little controls fail to really consider whether the guns will run 1000 rounds or not when a gun has a part break during that particular 1000 rounds. I think there were guns in each match that DQ'd for breakage. In two of the matches, the first guns to DQ for breakage were Glocks, but such a statistic is actually meaningless sense the parts undoubtedly broke as a result of longer term wear and tear and not just because the shooter was in a 1000 round match.

Not counted in the TDSA match but in the two later ones in OK, mag failures seemed to be more common with Glocks than with 1911s in regard to catastrophic failures. In the 3 matches I have seen 3 Glock mags take a(n ammo) dump while being fired, the baseplate, spring and cartridges landing at the shooters' feet like pellets from a rabbit held and squeezed too hard. The one 1911 mag failure, as I recall, was a spring/follower that bound up in the mag housing and has to be disassembled to get it unbound.

In other words, it is hard to find a good way to compare and contrast just two type of guns because of all the variable factors that come into play that cannot be controlled for in such a manner to make such data used for a valid comparison, so comparing all the types of guns that show up to gun schools is that much more of a problem for getting useful information unless you are asking for what guns work best or work worst regardless of comparing the various factors involved.

Is there a gun that would work fine with a new shooter or experience, with good ammo or bad, etc.? If I was a betting man, I would put my money on the original full-sized Glock in 9mm. What was it, the Glock 17? The caliber is small enough and the size and weight of the gun large enough that the caliber isn't intimidating to new shooters and the gun is not as likely to suffer at the hands of limp wristing. The 9mm ball ammo seems to be an excellent feeding ammo (as compared to the less pointy .45 acp ball ammo). The limited slide to frame rail contact seems to run better without lube than you get with full contact slide/frame contact on the rails. Less powder compared to larger calibers seems to keep the gun from heating up as fast as well (note that this is just a perception and not based on me testing heat buildup and that the perception may be completely wrong).
 
I went through 1500 rounds of .40 S&W in my Sig P229 last fall for LFI's Advanced Handgun Skills course in 2 days. Between days, I did not clean or lube the gun. Every single round fed, fired and ejected perfectly. Oh, did I mention that the gun was a CPO when I bought it? :D It wasn't a new gun.:)
 
Treeprof called it

The guns that go down are either

1. The ones being fed crappy ammo

2. The ones that have been "upgraded"
 
Double Naught Spy:

Old Fluff is correct in that the original 1911s were NOT loose. I have a 1911 in about 90% condition that is tighter than brand new Springfields and Colts I have seen at gun shows. He attributes looser 1911s to relaxed tolerances to make parts more interchangible, which may be right, but also because they still functioned well and had 'combat accuracy' of about 4" or less groups at 25 yards (or so I have read). The relaxed tolerances made the gun cheaper to produce.


The tolerances weren't so much relaxed as there were "adjusted" so that parts from different prime contractors (in particular Colt, Remington-Rand and Ithaca) would interchange without fitting. Accuracy standards were not changed, and remained as before. The new tolerances did not effect the cost of manufacturing the pistol, but by 1944 Remington Rand was producing the best guns, and charging the least of the "big three" contractors.

1911 and 1911A1 pistols always had an excellent reputation for functioning, regardless of the environmental conditions, but complaints were more often heard during the Korean War and Viet Nam era when many if not most available guns had gone through numerous rebuilding and for all practical purposes were worn out. It should be remembered that the last time the government bought new guns was 1945 or early 1946. These were still in service when the Beretta M9 was adopted in 1982, and some 1911A1 pistols are still being used in our current conflicts.
 
I haven't been to any schools but have had a couple weekend classes. I've seen Glocks, BHPs and 1911s all fail.
 
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