Discussion in 'Non-Firearm Weapons' started by bikerdoc, Sep 21, 2019.
I "should" just trade it off or resell it but damn! I think it will look good next to my other 6.
Get back to work!
I can watch the world go by in a 12 hour shift! Not to mention all the overtime.
I'm usually doing 70MPH across the desert on a train that's 3 miles long.
Stay safe out there!
Plenty of time to be looking at knives!
LOL. I thought I was the only one that did that.
I used to whittle knives at work from the old oak grade stakes that were everywhere. Always had one in my ruler pocket under way for those times we were down or waiting on something. The Tanto and Gerber MKII knives types were the ones I usually ended up doing, but Ive done all sorts. Never took things to the sanding and finish point. Usually just gave them aways once it was about that close. Youd be surprised at how "finished" you can get with just a pocket knife though.
Found this one in my old work bag this morning looking for something else. Its almost there, but still needs some meat to come off.
One thing cool about oak is, its strong, and will actually take an "edge". Enough so it will easily slice you if you get careless.
Its hard on the old thumb getting there though.
It looks good, but you might want to round the primary and secondary edge a bit more.
Nice work! Your knife kind of reminds me of a Gerber Mk.II.
Micarta Canvas Handle, Tull tang, 4.13 inches Sandvik 14c28n blade.
Now that I've had time to spend with the Trampero I have to say that I'm very pleased with the ergonomics, sharpness, and fit/finish. It curve cut lightweight paper easily right out of the box. The stainless steel is the same as on the Mora Garberg so I should find it holds an edge well, but sharpens easily.
The micarta grip is comfortable, but it is a bit fat for my hand. I'll take some sand paper to it and thin it down. Better a wee bit too much meat on the bone than too little.
The sheath is well done with a solid mid welt and a couple of ring rivets in the right places as extra protection. It can be worn with a snap close dangler loop or the belt loop on the body of the sheath.
It is generally a Kephart "pattern" and comes closer than any production "Kephart" I've handled because it has the original Kephart "pinch" in the scales giving the front of the scales a flared feature. This improves safety and grip. It does have the tip centered just above the centerline of the blade, but not quite the 2/3 up from the edge the original does. It also lacks the feature of the original Kephart blade tapering from that line of the point to the spine which provides for a ridge running the length of the blade in line with the point. I have to work solely from memory, but the original Kephart may have been lighter in the blade as well.
I'll have to compare it to my other "Kephart" style knives this fall.
My right wrist and shoulder joints have been getting a mite gimpy, limiting my ability to use a straight blade for thrusting, so, a curved blade, that allows reaching-and-ripping, is making plenty of sense.
If anyone has any ideas were it may have came from I would appreciate your thoughts. There are no markings on the knife.
It is a blade lock.
I love the blade shape on that. Would it be good for whittling?
Had no idea. It is a very sharp knife. Will go on a key ring. It was marked $13 but the gun shop is closing at the end of this month and is having a closeout sale so charged me $10. They will move up north and continue the gun shop at the owner's retirement place. I should go back as they have some more knives. All the guns are 10 percent off, and I already got one at that rate when I traded up my 642 for a black 442 to improve pocket concealment. Sorry to see them go but there is another good gun shop only three miles from me that will become my main gun shop after the other one closes.
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