What's wrong with Rem-Oil?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Re Brain Dale:
Here's more on lubrication, from an experienced gunsmith named Grant Cunningham (Link).

Thanks, that is an excellent reference. As a mechanical engineer, Mr. Cunningham's recommendations make a lot of sense to me. While I never took courses in tribology (lubrication scientist), I did work for several years for a rather large firm that, since they primarily leased their equipment, had an entire department dedicated to it.

If I may quote several statements from Mr. Cunningham:
I use the General Rule of Lubrication: oil for rotating parts, grease for sliding parts that carry a load."
For oil he states:
What really gets most oils is lack of corrosion resistance - in a gun, corrosion is a bad thing!
...
Ironically, the product that scores at or very near the top of just about everyone's testing is also the most available, and the cheapest. It also has good migration, a good boundary lubrication package, is the right weight (thickness) for general firearms use, doesn't oxidize over long periods of storage, and is compatible with a wide range of metals and plastics.
...
Dexron-type Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF). That's right, plain ol' ATF
and for grease:
Brownell's Action Lube is superb - wonderful boundary lubricants (in fact, it is mostly composed of molybdenum compounds in a light grease base. It is great on action parts, and works well on slide rails - as long as you don't mind black stains. Yuck!

There is a better alternative for slides and bolts, but is unfortunately quite hard to get: Lubriplate "SFL" NLGI #0 grease.
 
jimmyray: i thought all oils had petroleum distillates i think liquid wrench has those and that stuff smells more like paint
 
Yes, chevyforlife21, you're right. "Petroleum distillate" is a three-dollar term that means anything that's refined out of crude oil, which is itself a mixture of things from heavy tar to lightweight naphtha and beyond.

They're also called hydrocarbons: gasoline, Diesel fuel, kerosene, mineral oil, paint thinner, sewing machine oil, and non-synthetic motor oil (before they put in the additives): they're all fractions of petroleum. Sellers often use the term when it isn't crucial exactly which molecules are in the product. For most uses, a mixture of hydrocarbon molecules that are all about the same weight will do the job that we need them to do.

Yeah, I used to be a chemist. If your eyes just glazed over, you have my apologies. :D
 
Last edited:
haha i thought so brian, ive seen that on a few different items. i think you just enlightend some of the members with your knowledge lol
 
It was a joke guys. I was (poorly) making note that they both smell like oil because they both are oil. After 37 years in the transportation industry, I am quite familiar with petroleum distillates. I have also come to realize that it is hard to make a joke on this forum without becoming the butt of one. (Again,I jest)=)
 
Used to be a chemist? No such thing. Once a chemist always a chemist, as your post shows. It is a special way of thinking and requires such devotion that it Keeps those who choose it for life. I debated strongly switching to chemistry from nursing. I did very well in Gen Chem, O-chem and a couple of electives. Didn't pull the trigger. Didn't think I would be smart enough for P-chem and DE etc. But boy, did I love chemistry!!!!
 
jimmyraythomason : Whenever you fire a shot, don't be surprised if there is a ricochet.

One thing I didn't hear mentioned was the tendancy of some lubes to carry grit/crud, like some grease.

One of the "Miracle" lubes that works pretty well on hot surfaces like the barrel( inside and out), is Militec. I don't know if it protects from moisture, , but it's dry and slippery and powder residue and crud wipe off easily. It doesn't permiate/migrate well, but doesn't need to in this application.
 
i loved hoppes oil but it was a crud magnet, then i went to rem oil it was ok dried to fast for me though, now ive used clp for the last few years the military uses it on full autos, it doesnt atract crud, its good for a wide temperterure range,places at the top of corrosition tests, has teflon,and i like the smell, and its the same price as rem oil
 
Is it okay to wipe down the gun with Break-Free CLP? I have read Hoppes is better for cleaning. But should I use Kleen Bore or Break-Free to wipe down the guns?
 
it amazes me that folks post about the economy of using Rem-oil

when you can just get a can of Mobil 1 and it will last a lot longer...i've also had luck with ATF, but the Mobil one has a pretty can.

but then i've been known to use Simple Green or 96-98% alcohol to clean too
 
It's okay for a light, protective coat on parts. It's too thin and dries out too fast for me to like it as a lube for autoloaders.
I was going to post this take on it exactly, but someone else beat me to it. That's what I use it for---as an external protectant for blued and parkerized guns. I also use it as a lubricant for things that require VERY light lubrication (trigger parts, etc.). For slides and bolts, I prefer Mobil 1 for things that need a good oil, and a good gun grease for higher-load surfaces.

As to the smell, I'm in the camp that doesn't mind the smell of Rem Oil too much but can't stand the smell of CLP.
 
I use it for everything. I clean with Hoppes #9 (except for black powder for that I use my own concoction of dish soap and anti-freeze), and spray down in and out with Rem Oil. If I don't feel like taking apart the guts of the gun I just spray the rem oil in until it drips out the other side lol.

The problem is when I go out at night, which cologne to where, the Hoppes or the Rem Oil.
 
The short answer, depending of course on what you want to do with it, is nothing ... nothing at all is wrong with RemOil. I've used it for years without problem or incident, as I'm sure most here who have tried it have experienced as well.
 
It's interesting how different our odor perceptions are. To me, RemOil liquid drops don't smell at all, the pump spray and aerosol cans smell a little like vanilla. CLP doesn't smell much either, but EEZox, now that stuff smells like crazy and my wife and daughter have demanded that I never use it in the house.

And they always know when I do:rolleyes:
 
Neither Rem oil or CLP do a very good job of lubricating in my experience. I prefer a lubricant like FP10.
 
I use Rem Oil a lot but Break Free CLP is also good. BFCLP may be better for getting into the inner workings of a gun because of it's foaming quality but I would say either one is a great cleaner.

I've also used Gunzilla as a final application rust inhibitor, but it's kind of pricy. Of course, I use Hoppes inside the barrel. The inside of the bbl gets a coating of Gunzilla after being cleaned with Hoppes.

For lubricating slide rails I use White Lithium Grease.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top