Which powder trickler do you prefer?
- Thread starter 280PLUS
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RobZ71LM7
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I just picked up a Redding #5.
280PLUS
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Hey man... shoot Saturday?
Anyhoo, yea, I guess if I find that the 450 is accurate in the powder charge I'll probably relax about it. But still, the ABC's book gets right into saying how if you want a good consistent auto handgun target load you must separate your brass by mfg and weight, weigh your heads, trickle in the last few tenths of powder, the whole spiel. I do believe I will be turning out my very first few rounds before the end of the week though. I've got until 12/3 to come up with at least 100 decent, tested rounds for the next match. The next step is to figure out where all the parts I got from Dillon go and set it up, then it's off to the races...
Anyhoo, yea, I guess if I find that the 450 is accurate in the powder charge I'll probably relax about it. But still, the ABC's book gets right into saying how if you want a good consistent auto handgun target load you must separate your brass by mfg and weight, weigh your heads, trickle in the last few tenths of powder, the whole spiel. I do believe I will be turning out my very first few rounds before the end of the week though. I've got until 12/3 to come up with at least 100 decent, tested rounds for the next match. The next step is to figure out where all the parts I got from Dillon go and set it up, then it's off to the races...
Didn't make the shoot, home for the holiday's. If you want those super accurate rounds for the match, then do just as you suggest. The Dillon powder measure will be very reproducible from round to round. Do have an accurate scale? Balance or digital will work fine with the latter being a little faster to get started. Most scales have a +/- 0.02grs so you won't get any better than that You can always try several (20) of each load made up not quite so accurate, then dial them in after you are in the ball park. Couple things, the lightest load in the manual may not cycle your slide, but you should make up a few rounds anyway just to make sure. You may want to just get new brass or ounce fired for the match. My most expensive bullets, Hornady, varied in weight by +/- 0.5 grs so you may want to seperate your projectiles based on weight as well as size. In this batch size tended to vary less. One last note, on a progressive, bullet seating can vary if not all the stations are full so just keep that in mind for those super accurate rounds. Bottom line is, knowing how well you shoot, you could probably run away with the match using Ultramax factory reloads of varying brass. Good luck and if you need any assistance, I'd be happy to help.
If you want those super accurate rounds for the match, then do just as you suggest. The Dillon powder measure will be very reproducible from round to round. Do have an accurate scale? Balance or digital will work fine with the latter being a little faster to get started. Most scales have a +/- 0.02grs so you won't get any better than that You can always try several (20) of each load made up not quite so accurate, then dial them in after you are in the ball park. Couple things, the lightest load in the manual may not cycle your slide, but you should make up a few rounds anyway just to make sure. You may want to just get new brass or ounce fired for the match. My most expensive bullets, Hornady, varied in weight by +/- 0.5 grs so you may want to seperate your projectiles based on weight as well as size. In this batch size tended to vary less. One last note, on a progressive, bullet seating can vary if not all the stations are full so just keep that in mind for those super accurate rounds. Bottom line is, knowing how well you shoot, you could probably run away with the match using Ultramax factory reloads of varying brass. Good luck and if you need any assistance, I'd be happy to help.280PLUS
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Thanks, I'll know more in a few days. yea, I got a balance beam right from dillon with the rest of the stuff. I'd prefer the digital but didn't want to spend the extra scratch. It's on my wish list. I'm going to start witgh 3.8 gr of bullseye and work up ~ 20 rounds each of 3.8 through maybe 4.2 and go from there. Then I'll pick the one I like best.
PinnedAndRecessed
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P95 recommends:
I had to read this a couple of times but, you mean to insert the 44 case mouth into the 45 case mouth? Do you need to ream out the primer hole for larger powders?
I had to read this a couple of times but, you mean to insert the 44 case mouth into the 45 case mouth? Do you need to ream out the primer hole for larger powders?
TooTaxed
Member
A rifle case...just hold it level, twist it a little and a few grains will fall out.
Guess I'm both cheap and don't need a bunch of extra stuff cluttering up the loading bench...
Guess I'm both cheap and don't need a bunch of extra stuff cluttering up the loading bench...
280PLUS
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Well, I've done my first 25. 200 gr LSWC, CCI primers and 3.8 - 4.2 gr of Bullseye 5 rounds each in .1 gr incrments. "Trickler" of choice, the 1/8 tsp measuring spoon. Worked quite well, get the needle to start rising and then tap tap to bring it to the line. Now to shoot the little buggers.
I use a RCBS and put #12 shot in the bottom with epoxy to hold it in place the put a cork bottom on it. Turned out real nice. I use a powder dipper and put it on the scale pan then use the trickler to top it off. You can get really fast with this method once you work out your own system. At least I know that each load is perfect. On really large amounts of cases I use a Redding #3.
280PLUS
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Right, same here, that way when I blow a shot I know it's me and not the loads or the gun. Up to now I've been using another guy's leftovers and now that I'm looking closer I'm finding that MOST of the spent shells that I have so far have been same MFG per box. I found that to be interesting. He is a "Distinguished" pistol shooter so I imagine he took pretty good care when making his too. It'll be nice to know exactly what I'm shooting now. I had no idea of what the load was box to box. I like the shot and cork idea.
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