Valkman
Member
Yep, all new knives go on my Wicked Edge for some real sharpening. That's the answer: knives I own are the sharpest.
Who Makes the Sharpest Knife?
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Yep, all new knives go on my Wicked Edge for some real sharpening. That's the answer: knives I own are the sharpest.
Officers'Wife
Member
It depends on a what use you are putting the knife too. General purpose knives about any 220 stainless is going to give you good service. The more specific the task the more the material changes.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
I don't really see this question as relevant.
No matter who ships the sharpest knife from the factory??
It won't be the 'sharpest' any longer after you use it a few times.
Then you got to figure out how to make it that sharp again!!
And that's the real hard question, depending on your skill level at sharpening knives.
Factory edges ground on a CNC machine at an unknown angle with a diamond plate are hard to duplicate at home alone with a old whet-stone.
rc
No matter who ships the sharpest knife from the factory??
It won't be the 'sharpest' any longer after you use it a few times.
Then you got to figure out how to make it that sharp again!!
And that's the real hard question, depending on your skill level at sharpening knives.
Factory edges ground on a CNC machine at an unknown angle with a diamond plate are hard to duplicate at home alone with a old whet-stone.
rc
Sam Cade
Member
A little tweak and you have poetry.
hso said:
Some of my inlaws owned a Japanese restaurant and one of their staff had brought over some sort of gargantuan chisel ground fish-knife, a bit like an overgrown yanagi. After 30 seconds of cutting vegetables with it I -very carefully- cleaned it and returned it to its owner and asked for a different knife. Not only was it the absolute sharpest knife I've ever used it was too large for me to control.
The sharpest out of the box knife I have ever owned is a Blackjack. Second sharpest was is a Mora carbon steel blade. I can re-sharpen the Mora just as sharp as the Blackjack however.
I find convex edges easiest to re-sharpen followed by the scandi grinds.
I find convex edges easiest to re-sharpen followed by the scandi grinds.
The sharpest, bar none is from Havalon. Not elegant, but they are designed to change the blade. One get dull, throw it away and put in a new one. I think they use surgical scalpel blades.
http://www.havalon.com/
I bought the first one to use as a "work" knife. They held up so well I've now used them for various outdoor chores including field dressing.
http://www.havalon.com/
I bought the first one to use as a "work" knife. They held up so well I've now used them for various outdoor chores including field dressing.
lots of fancy answers here. i dont use exotic blades myself.
practically - my Emmerson folder has about the sharpest blade for any of the knives I own. the alloy isnt proprietary - cant remember what it is off the top of my head. its one of the more expensive alloys, and it takes a great edge. so check the Emmersons if you want something really sharp. but I'm not saying other brands dont use that steel - some do.
CA R
practically - my Emmerson folder has about the sharpest blade for any of the knives I own. the alloy isnt proprietary - cant remember what it is off the top of my head. its one of the more expensive alloys, and it takes a great edge. so check the Emmersons if you want something really sharp. but I'm not saying other brands dont use that steel - some do.
CA R
ugaarguy
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The sharpest knife at SHOT a few years ago, as tested on a CATRA machine, was one of Ed Schempp's personal folders with a VG-10 blade. Unless there's test documentation about the Havalon knives your assertion is just a guess.
Emerson uses 154 CM, the American version of ATS-34. It was the hot thing to have 15+ years ago, but now it's not even expensive to buy for small scale custom builder. Benchmade still uses it heavily, and their knives sell for about 1/2 the price of a comparable Emerson. Spyderco has moved onto more expensive steels like VG-10 and CPM-S30V, yet they keep their prices in direct competition with Benchmade. Ernest Emerson is a heck of a knife designer, and knives are well made: They're just expensive compared to their peers.
Glock Doctor
Member
In a production knife: Victorinox! I carry a, 'Sentinel' with a thumb-hole in its partially serrated blade, and a pocket clip on the handle. (It's more than enough knife for me; and nobody ever looks twice at it.)
http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/VN...inel-with-Clip-Serrated-Edge-4-38-inch-Handle
http://www2.knifecenter.com/item/VN...inel-with-Clip-Serrated-Edge-4-38-inch-Handle
lobo9er
Member
Just got a new Buck woodsman that came pretty darn sharp outta the box. It cut PAPER! Into shreds. I got a little lost with that one. But what can be funner with a new blade but to get some quick gratification by shredding paper?
But this is still like asking who makes the hottest fire. The only question that could be answered is which steel composition will allow for the finest edge. And still each knife is going to vary by how it was sharpened.
Into shreds. I got a little lost with that one. But what can be funner with a new blade but to get some quick gratification by shredding paper?But this is still like asking who makes the hottest fire. The only question that could be answered is which steel composition will allow for the finest edge. And still each knife is going to vary by how it was sharpened.
TNBilly
Member
Been following this thread learning a lot as I go......... I'm wondering though how do ceramic blades fare as hunting knives if there are any? Would require diamond sharpening but any thoughts as to "sharpness" and edge life?
ugaarguy
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Billy, ceramic can take a very fine edge, but it's brittle. The manufacturers have gotten better at making it more impact resistant than the early ceramic kitchen knives that would literally shatter if dropped from more than a few inches above a counter or cutting board, but it's still too brittle for any real outdoor use.
HoosierQ
Member
I am with RC here. The question is practically relevant only if two things are true a) you can't sharpen a knife, and b) you can afford to keep buying new ones whenever they get dull. Heck, I sharpen my stanley knife I use for leather work. I use a ceramic rod. Sharpen it before every cut. I use it until the tip breaks off and only then change the blade.
Knife sharpening is difficult but it is a skill that will serve you very well.
Knife sharpening is difficult but it is a skill that will serve you very well.
TNBilly
Member
ugaarguy
lost this thread so didn't get back timely.
thanks for the response on ceramics.... I'd pretty well figured they were probably too delicate for our purposes.
In my past experiences what I hate most is trying to figure which knife is going to hold and edge and take one with the least trouble. I've found you "generally" can put a heck of an edge on most any blade but the "sharp" time varies immensely. I'd always liked Case pockets but have found over the years most of their stainless is junk, unless you get over the $50 mark. The older carbon steel blades sharpen up nice but if you really use it the edge is short lived. About the strangest old knife I have is an old Precise hunters fixed blade. It originally came with a more or less rounded shape edge which while you could use a hammer and pound on it, it was so tough, it left a little to be desired for sharpness. I hollow ground the edge with a 25 degree finish and have been well satisfied since. Whatever the stainless is it holds a good edge and it still a tough edge.
lost this thread so didn't get back timely.
thanks for the response on ceramics.... I'd pretty well figured they were probably too delicate for our purposes.
In my past experiences what I hate most is trying to figure which knife is going to hold and edge and take one with the least trouble. I've found you "generally" can put a heck of an edge on most any blade but the "sharp" time varies immensely. I'd always liked Case pockets but have found over the years most of their stainless is junk, unless you get over the $50 mark. The older carbon steel blades sharpen up nice but if you really use it the edge is short lived. About the strangest old knife I have is an old Precise hunters fixed blade. It originally came with a more or less rounded shape edge which while you could use a hammer and pound on it, it was so tough, it left a little to be desired for sharpness. I hollow ground the edge with a 25 degree finish and have been well satisfied since. Whatever the stainless is it holds a good edge and it still a tough edge.
Officers'Wife
Member
Cutting paper???? That is a sure way to ruin an edge!! Shame on you!Just got a new Buck woodsman that came pretty darn sharp outta the box. It cut PAPER!
But this is still like asking who makes the hottest fire. The only question that could be answered is which steel composition will allow for the finest edge. And still each knife is going to vary by how it was sharpened.
My late uncle used to check how sharp one of his newly forged knives were by swinging it at a length of 1/2" sisal rope hanging from a rafter, if it cut through it was sharp enough, if the end wrapped around the knife or his hand it needed more sharpening.
Added thought: I've been told the proper way to check the sharpness of a knife is to gently rub the blade against your arm with the grain of the hair. If it shaves the hair it's serviceable, if not... "you could ride to town on the edge. You do know a dull knife will hurt you a lot quicker than a sharp one. Get your buns out to the shop and sharpen it now!
(Stern parental lecture #28)
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351 WINCHESTER
Member
The Swedish Moras and other like Swedish knives are the sharpest I've ever encountered.
That's incorrect.
That's just one way, therefore not the "proper" way, to check and is handy since most folks have an arm handy if they're checking an edge.
Shaving hair without touching the skin, shaving fingernail smoothly, cutting news print held horizontally without ripping, even cutting toilet paper are all proper "field" methods folks use to test sharpness. Cutting a soft tomato along with the sharpness testing machines that measure force are even better.
As pointed out, a sharp edge may not be easily maintained depending upon the materials the edge encounters.
craftsman
Member
By "sharpest" if you mean "kewlest looking" - that is a matter of perference! LOL
If you mean able to get the cutting edge to the smallest width possible, then the white blade ceramic, zirconium dioxide (ZrO2; also known as zirconia) comes in as #2, and the black blade ceramic, Zirconium Carbide is #1. Both, however, are very very brittle - made more for slicing than anything else. Next best and most useful is a high carbon steel. Preferably, one made in the traditional Japanese fashion
( http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/japb/hd_japb.htm ) or of damascus steel.
I've had my Zirconium Dioxide in the kitchen for over a decade and my Carbide is 8 years old, both are as sharp as the day I bought them - never sharpened.
If you mean able to get the cutting edge to the smallest width possible, then the white blade ceramic, zirconium dioxide (ZrO2; also known as zirconia) comes in as #2, and the black blade ceramic, Zirconium Carbide is #1. Both, however, are very very brittle - made more for slicing than anything else. Next best and most useful is a high carbon steel. Preferably, one made in the traditional Japanese fashion
( http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/japb/hd_japb.htm ) or of damascus steel.
I've had my Zirconium Dioxide in the kitchen for over a decade and my Carbide is 8 years old, both are as sharp as the day I bought them - never sharpened.
jakk280rem
Member
I'll let the others talk about what the sharpest knife is and tell you what the sharpest knife I've ever seen come out of a box. It was a Seki Japan made 440C knife branded under the Walther name. It has a skeletonized blade and is only a couple inches long. It also has a mirror polished blade and is capable of cutting the tissue paper the knife came in using only the weight of the knife. A close second was a Japanese made Gerber also made of 440C. I see a pattern here.
Since regrinding it, I am simply fascinated with the blade on my Svord Peasant. It sharpens incredibly fast and easy. I feel like a monkey could sharpen this knife. And that edge holds up impossibly well. I put an edge on the knife that I was sure would fold, but it just keeps cutting. Periodically running a nail down the blade continually surprised me by revealing a single, unified edge that will still peel a hair.
This prompted me to do a little research. From what I can guess, Svord uses 15N20 bandsaw steel. It appears that some knife makers have perfected the heat treat of L6 and/or 15N20 steel in order to obtain large amounts of fine-grained bainite. The major limitation is that this kind of steel doesn't come in thick stock.
For a sub $20.00 knife, this might be one to try. I have some super hard high carbon woodcarving knives, and this blade matches or beats them all (at least within my own limitations in sharpening ability). The nickel in the steel seems to add just a tiny bit of corrosion resistance, to boot.
Maybe I got one that is exceptional, but this knife makes my 1095 carbon knives seem like pure junk. Between the ease of sharpening and the durability, this is a knife that will more than likely be crazy sharp every time I pick it up.
This prompted me to do a little research. From what I can guess, Svord uses 15N20 bandsaw steel. It appears that some knife makers have perfected the heat treat of L6 and/or 15N20 steel in order to obtain large amounts of fine-grained bainite. The major limitation is that this kind of steel doesn't come in thick stock.
For a sub $20.00 knife, this might be one to try. I have some super hard high carbon woodcarving knives, and this blade matches or beats them all (at least within my own limitations in sharpening ability). The nickel in the steel seems to add just a tiny bit of corrosion resistance, to boot.
Maybe I got one that is exceptional, but this knife makes my 1095 carbon knives seem like pure junk. Between the ease of sharpening and the durability, this is a knife that will more than likely be crazy sharp every time I pick it up.
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Sam Cade
Member
Svord is L6 I think.
I've made some practice stuff from 1/8" 15n20 and it does indeed get stupid sharp...and shiny.
RetiredUSNChief
Member
What it's to be used for makes a lot of difference, too.
Sharp edge, and retention/maintenance of the same, is what's important. For shaving, a common straight edge is an excellent example...it's sharp enough to literally shave hairs off your face, yet soft enough to properly maintain via stroping. Use it for anything else and it'll fail in short order.
For kitchen use, a variety of edge designs is important, depending on the intended use of the blade. Because of this, a variety of materials and hardness/toughness may be used. Take, for example, the serrated edge of a bread knife vs. the meat cleaver's wide, stout edge.
Hardness/toughness is a balance that's variable and depends on both blade design and intended use for an optimum utilitarian use. Ain't no super-blade out there that is infinately sharp and infinately strong.
Sharp edge, and retention/maintenance of the same, is what's important. For shaving, a common straight edge is an excellent example...it's sharp enough to literally shave hairs off your face, yet soft enough to properly maintain via stroping. Use it for anything else and it'll fail in short order.
For kitchen use, a variety of edge designs is important, depending on the intended use of the blade. Because of this, a variety of materials and hardness/toughness may be used. Take, for example, the serrated edge of a bread knife vs. the meat cleaver's wide, stout edge.
Hardness/toughness is a balance that's variable and depends on both blade design and intended use for an optimum utilitarian use. Ain't no super-blade out there that is infinately sharp and infinately strong.
Officers'Wife
Member
Ah the Swedes, they couldn't build ships very well but they did have making high carbon steel down to an art. Somewhere around here I have a book (reprinted in the 1800's) of a 16th century monk describing a Swedish blacksmith making steel. A brick box was filled half full of charcoal, then the pig iron ingots placed on top then finished filled with charcoal. The charcoal at the bottom was set fire then the top sealed. After several days of soaking in fire the now steel ingots were fished out, the "blister" removed and the steel folded to manufacture tools. Interesting story but not worth learning Latin to read.
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