Wolff 32280 mainspring in 1858 Remington clone

[TWC]

After reading about it here I ordered the Wolff spring 32280 intending on using it in the 1977 "1858" Remington I posted about earlier. It already had a Colt style spring in it. When comparing it to the Wolff spring the Wolff spring is longer. Reading post about it here people say they installed it like it came. Will I have to shorten it,or is that something I'll just have to try and see?

 

[noelf2]

Fits fine in my pietta as is. It is a weaker spring than the pietta factory spring, and I only use it for cartidge conversion.

 

[arcticap]

Unfortunately the original THR and Remington 1858 Forum threads only mention that the Wolff 32280 spring worked in the Pietta and Uberti 1858's. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...emington-trigger-spring.870616/#post-11547859
That doesn't mean that it won't work in your FIE - PR made reproduction.
But best to be careful before shortening it because it is a weaker spring.
It's easier to take metal off than it is to put it back on.
And we don't know which major manufacturer provided the frame and grip frame for your gun.
Most other makes accept Uberti parts, but unlike with the 2012 Uberti 1958 mentioned below, the springs are not the same size.
While the new spring may be longer, if you unnecessarily shorten it to fit then it may not function as intended.
Perhaps simply bending it into place to install will be good enough, or perhaps not.
Good luck with however you decide to get it to fit.

According to the original thread. that 32280 spring worked:
" In addition to fitting in my Pietta 1858s, it also fits in my Pietta 1860 Army. However, in the 1860 Army, there isn't enough force to reliably fire the cap........
.......The 1858 Pietta works the first time, every time, zero fail to fires with the 32280 spring."

And:
"My 2012 Uberti Rem took the 32280 Colt SAA spring, by Wolff. It dropped in and, after tightening the tension screw, functioned perfectly........
.......Yeah, I like the spring a lot. I compared the 32280 to the stock Uberti Rem spring - they were the same length." --->>> https://1858remington.com/index.php?topic=5248.0

 

[TWC]

It fit and busts caps real good. Was pleasantly surprised at easier trigger pull. Seemed harder to get the spring in then the last spring I installed,but it was in 90 degree heat,with carpel tunnel,arthritis,and finger numbness contributing. Can't wait to shoot it some...

 

[TheOutlawKid]

Ive used the lighter aftermarket spring and i don't like them at all. I love the stock springs and they are perfect as is. The best way to make your hammer pull lighter is by removing unecessary force on the guns internals. Thats why i remove the flat trigger and bolt spring and install a custom 2 part torsion wire spring set up. Then i work the cap and the bolt arm. This makes the guns hammer pull way smoother and lighter feeling but keeps the hard hitting force of a stock main spring. The lighter aftermarket springs are ok with cartridge guns but i dont like them for cap guns. People try my guns out and swear the hammer is an aftermarket lighter hammer spring or that i thinned it out...but i dont even make a single adjustment and i keep it stock

 

[TWC]

I haven't even shot it yet but like the results so far. I did rub on the bolt that had an ugly bump? and cleaned things up and lubed good. I assume the custom wire springs are ones you make yourself? What are you using for wire? I see you are a fan of .36's. Hope to learn more about them.

 

[TheOutlawKid]

The wire is tricky. Not just any "music" wire works. It has to be a spring tempered, but just cuz its spring tempered still doesn't mean it will work. and you gotta experiment with strengths because one gauge of wire may work but the same gauge on a different wire wont and even brands anf batches differ. Sometimes you even gotta heat and temper. I use a custom build for myself. If you have any open tops id be happy to work them over TWC. And in a huge fan of .36 cal as they are sooo underrated. A good 130-140 grain wide meplat bullet between .45-.500 inchest tall with 20-25 grains of energetic powder like Old Eynseford, Swiss, or triple 7 and you have a very hard hitting strong load. The standard .44 cal ball is 138-143 grains...so imagine the same ball reshaped into a conical to be more aerodynamic with a .25-.28 flat nose meplat. Great stuff.

 

[TWC]

Had to look up meplat....Do they fit stock 1851's,or do you have to make clearance? What do you charge for working one over? Where are you? I will have to think about it when the "new" wears off my .36. Some say a new cap & ball is just a kit that comes assembled and needs redoing. But this thing came out of the box "happy"..

 

[TheOutlawKid]

My custom .36 that i have drawn up and had molds made for require no modification, i also like using kaido conicals which also require no modification. Heres a link for my type of .36 conicals that i use:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...tridge-works-and-remington-36-conical.865212/

And heres a link to the work i do on open top colts:

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ths-repair-tuning-and-conversion-work.870077/

 

[TheOutlawKid]

I live in south texas. And i dont really charge, i usually just work the guns for free as long as you pay shipping, the link i sent shows some feedback of someones i worked for free ...and i dont charge if i got the free time. I usually charge 60 bux but just depends because sometimes ill offer free work just to keep busy or for friends and some forum members, tips always welcomed but only if a person can afford it...i hate to take money away from those who barely make just enough to get by, i like to help others in our hobby as i feel we are a community and should help share knowledge and skill when possible. Maybe one day my good intentions will rub off and ill have good karma come my way. If its already a working gun then it can always be improved. Check the link and it will show the things i add to make the gun very reliable.