Wollff ammo? whats the consensus?

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Lets put iy this way. New gun, 1st clip, 2 stove pipes, heart fluters. 2nd clip 1 fte, 1 stove pipe, im going to cry. 3rd clip to today (350 rounds) not a problem. What happened, I took the box of wolf, after 2 clips, gave it to my friend, with a ruger, and NEVER used it again. The cheap stuff at Wal-Mart, the stuff that is $9 for 100 rounds, never had a problem.
 
I put a box of it through my CZ-97. I've had stove pipes with Blazer, but not with Wolf. (A stovepipe is when the ejecting case gets caught in the forward moving slide, right?) It was a little dirty, but no worse than Blazer. (Blazer .45 Colt for example is REALLY dirty, in addition to having inconsistent velocity.)
 
I have to agree with most of the statements here: seems very reliable, reasonably accurate, great price. I have fired several thousand rounds of both .45 and 9mm and I haven't had a bit of trouble. I didn't even think it was noticeably dirtier than any other lower-priced plinking ammo. I've put Wolf through a Ruger P97DC, Ruger P95, SA MilSpec 1911A1, Beretta 92FS, KelTec P11, S&W Sigma SW9VE, and a Charles Daly 1911 clone. I haven't noticed any abnormal wear and tear or problems with the steel case or the lacquer.


But I would still recommend using the Walmart 100 rds "white box" for about $11.00 for plinking and practice. For some reason I just feel more comfortable with the manufacturing processes and QA of Winchester than I do with the Russian ammo. I have ALOT of Wolf ammo in storage, all sealed and untouched, and it will remain in storage until it is needed for some extreme situation.
 
Ran a couple of hundred rounds through my Bulgarian Makarov - worked like a charm and seemed to be a pretty hot round. Nor cleaner nor dirtier than any other ammo...
 
I think its great ammo for guns designed to use it.

For guns with tight chambers, its can be a problem.

As the barrel heats up, the lacquer coating can start to coat the chamber. As it cools it GRIPS the spent casing, making it hard to extract. I don't know if that, coupled to the steel case, makes it hard on extractors, but it can be.

If your gun has a loose chamber (as in Glocks), you're not likely to experience a problem.

I have personnaly seen it jam up guns badly, and I've seen guys have to drive the spent casing out of the chamber with a wooden dowel... Most of this can be improved or avoided -- in tight chambered guns -- by frequent, through cleaning.

I don't use it and won't use -- when I can buy CCI Blazer in bulk for less than $5 a box in 9mm and under $8 in .40 and .45...
 
Russian guns use Russian ammo.

I have shot a couple thousand rounds of 7.62x39 through my SAR 1 w/o a problem.

But my 9mm's get S&B or Winchester atleast. The price difference between Wolf and brass cased ammo is so small I stick with the brass cased stuff
 
I've run 500 rounds through my Kimber, 500 rounds through my Beretta 96 Border Marshal, and over 2000 rounds through my Sig P239 9mm

Three completely different guns, in three different calibers. Only 2 hiccups in 3000 rounds.

What does that say about Wolf???

Sure I also hit Walmart for the sales, but hell, it's proven to me that it works.

Sure it's as dirty as anything else, but which one of you doesn't clean your gun after use?
 
David S:

NO other ammunition manufacturer gets so many
negative responses from people (except for A-
merc from Florida). THIS SHOULD BE A BIG RED
FLAG TO YOU!

Something is wrong here. Very, very wrong!

Stainless.

nra1.gif
 
I'll use it in my Commie guns. My SKS loved it before I sold it. I haven't tried the 5.45x39mm in my AK yet or the 7.62x54R in my Mosin. But as far as in my CZ-75B I won't since I can get CCI Blazer for about the same price.
 
NO other ammunition manufacturer gets so many
negative responses from people (except for A-
merc from Florida). THIS SHOULD BE A BIG RED
FLAG TO YOU!

Something is wrong here. Very, very wrong!
See ... the funny thing is that there are a whole bunch of "Don't use Wolf!" and "Wolf will blow up your gun!" and "Wolf is EEEEEEVIL" but very few people can actually explain why.
When asked, most seem to start talking about destroying extractors, gumming up chambers and what-have-you. Most are stories heard on the 'net, and if you read it on the 'net it has to be true ... right?

Fun experiment:
Buy one (1) box of Wolf in your favorite caliber.
Shoot one (1) cartridge.
Take spent casing home.
Throw remainder of the box in the Local Deep Body of Water Used For Disposal of Dangerous Stuff. Ask a local witch to cast hexes to make sure the eeeeeevil stuff doesn't climb out and gum up your guns.
Using vise-grips and a blowtorch, heat casing until it glows.
Using a flathead screwdriver, scrape at the casing.

Questions:
Does the laquer melt off?
Does the laquer come off when you scrape at it?
Does your gun heat the case up enough to glow, or have sharp edges to scrape at the laquer like you did with the screwdriver?

If your gun's chamber is rough enough to scrape off laquer from the casing, you have deeper problems than not being able to use Wolf ammo.

Personally, I'd rather use handloads in my .45 and mil-surp in my .223, but I believe a lot of the "Wolf ammunition will rape your horses and ride off on your women!" comments are simply repeating what is heard, not eyewitness accounts of the atrocities Wolf commits.
 
Cordex, I have said basically the same thing in countless threads on this subject. You sift through all the posts and come out with a few that mention that they have actually fired the ammo. Some have fired the ammo and had problems; most have fired the ammo and it worked fine. The vast majority of the posts are one sentence replies that have no information to back up their post. I tried to name the calibers I have used it in, and approx. how many rounds I have fired along with the results. However, if the result isn't what you want to hear, you just ignore the facts and move on to the speculation.

A good friend of mine did that same test you mention. He took a piece of Wolf .223 brass and heated it with a torch until it glowed. He then tried to scrape the laquer off with a screwdriver. He couldn't do it. But, if that isn't what you want to hear, you won't listen.
 
There are countless threads like this about
Wolf ammunition. For some reason they ALWAYS
turn into a flame war. When someone reports a
problem, there are always people who act like
religious zealots and get very emotional that
a problem was posted.

Funny how I have never seen a single similar
thread about any other ammunition manufacturer
(except for A-merc). Hhhhmmmmm... Could it be
that people aren't having problems with the
other manufactures?

The people who are trying to decide if they
should buy Wolf or not will have to decide
for themselves. If you decide to ignore the
warnings about the squib loads and such, you
can't say you weren't warned.

Stainless.


nra1.gif
 
I use Wolf in my Mak - no problems so far. I would try it in my S&W 6906, but haven't yet.

Funny how the most well-thought out and articulated replies seem to be from folks who have actually experimented with the ammo, or use it regularly.

The anti-Wolf responses seem to mostly be the one-liners and other emotionally charged statements.

I'd be interested in hearing some anti-Wolf analysis that is based on actual experience: what happened, why, etc.

I'm not interested in religious wars. I'll save that for the Wahabists.
 
I have seen guns malfunction using Wolf ammo. I have no explanation for it. As I said, it runs great in my rifles. And this was not a small sample set, again, as I mentioned I have fired over 4000 rounds of it though various AR15s but primarily through one. I have never had the slightest bobble. I recently took a four day rifle course where I fired 500 rounds of Wolf during the course. I fired out to 400 yards with it against steel, and out to 200 on paper. I fired a group from prone that was something like 5 inches at 200 yards from a 16" barreled AR15 using a Aimpoint optical sight (no magnification and a 4 minute dot). I used Wolf ammo to fire the high score during the shoot-off with no one else even close to my score. During the same course, someone else ran out of ammo and bought some Wolf to finish the last day of the class. She couldn't fire more than one or two rounds without a stoppage. Prior to this event, I always blamed malfunctions on people using a rifle that had a .223 chamber and non-chrome lined bore; but, this person was using a Bushmaster rifle so this wasn't an issue. So, now I have to question how well this person maintained their rifle. Did they keep the chamber clean ? Who knows ?
In summary, the ammo isn't junk. It is reliable and accurate in my guns, and has proven to be with a fairly decent array of guns over a fairly significant number of rounds fired. I haven't found it to be "dirty" and I have fired 500 rounds of it in a day's time. However, you may have problems. This doesn't make it junk. In 9mm, the difference in price may not be significant; I normally don't buy factory ammo in 9mm so I can't comment on that. But, I do know that in .223 it is significantly cheaper; like $50/case cheaper. For me, this amounts to quite a bit of money since I have been going though somewhere between 5k-10k per year. I will continue to use it; in fact I have two and a half cases of it right now. I would like to try the 9mm in my submachine gun. I have talked to other people who use it in their machine guns and say it runs great. Trying to pick up brass from a subgun is a PITA; I would much prefer steel cased "fire and forget" ammo for that application.
 
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