Your Dream Revolver

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Mr. Mosin

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This is a curiosity and conversation post.

If you could have any one (1x) revolver built to your specifications, what would it be ?


My personal choice would be a USFA SAA, in .45 Colt, w/ a 3” tapered barrel, birdshead grip, Bisley hammer, and hook style front sight, with extended base pin, total coverage engraving by any given master; and built as a Sheriff’s Mdl- milled flat where the ERH would normally protrude through the frame…
 
Apologies if I've been posting this too much, but gosh does this one ring my bell.

View attachment 1051133

It's a Ruger Redhawk given the 1917 treatment by Hamilton Bowen and chambered in .50 AE. I can scarcely think of a more useless handgun, but how I want one!

I am really diggin this one. Thats a monster. Dirty Harry meets Indiana Jones. Just a classy big bore cannon.
 
I wrote this awhile ago for another forum. I have posted it here once or two since so I hope another repeat is OK. Don't take any of it too serious or too personally. :D

How about this? I want a revolver that reloads fast, has enough power to hunt with but not so over-powered as to be abusive on my wrists or ears. It needs to throw fat heavy bullets. It has to work with or without moonclips. It’s got to be fun and easy. This is not a concealed carry revolver. With a shorter barrel it might have served as a good service/duty revolver in a bygone and less civilized era but it would be for open carry in the woods, on the tractor, hunting, or punching big holes in cardboard and scaring all the old guys at an IDPA match. It needs to blend the features of Webley Mark VI into the classic lines of a 6XX N-frame with the full underlug barrel. It needs to be big but not wholly unwieldy.

So first we need a new cartridge. 12x24mm GRD (Grumpy Revolver Dude). 12x24mm GRD is short and fat for quick reliable loading and ejecting from a revolver. It launches big bore 12mm bullets (.475-inch diameter for you imperial bastards). Max pressure would be a moderate 24,000 psi with a goal of 600-800 ft-lbs of muzzle energy depending on bullet weight. The moderate pressure would keep it easy on your ears, especially when hunting with no ear-pro. Heavy bullets (~400gr) would be sub-sonic at 800-850 fps. Light bullets in the 275 gr range, would approach 1200fps. Case length would be 24mm and would be semi-rimless (yes I said semi-rimless, pay attention!). The case would use large pistol primers (Why not?). A large extractor groove to allow the use of very thick (.040-.050 inch thick) robust moonclips (MOONCLIPS RULE!!!) in the large extractor groove. Semi-rimless (<- see it was important ->) would also allow the cartridges to head space on the cartridge rim in the absence of moonclips. The cylinder would be cut much as a cylinder for an rimmed cartridge is cut for moonclips

Now the Revolver: It would be a top break revolver with a locking mechanism similar to the old Webley Mark VI (why? because top break revolvers need to make a comeback). Don’t worry with the moderate pressure of 12x24mm GRD and modern metallurgy we can keep a top break revolver from doing a grenade impersonation. It would have a thumb lever to break down the revolver on both sides making it completely ambidextrous. Auto ejection on opening (Duh!). It would have a full under-lug barrel like a S&W N-frame (it looks good and sucks up the recoil). It would come in 3, 4, 5, and 6.5 inch barrels. Slip-in replaceable front sights like many of the new S&W revolvers (Not sure why this is not on more revolvers). The rear sight would be fixed (fixed sights are fixed and that is good), machined into the top break latch like a Webley. Though the frame would be drilled and tapped for a scope mount or adjustable rear sight. The adjustable rear sights would require a sight-less low-profile top break latch to be installed. The cylinder would be a 6-shot cylinder that would be slightly larger in diameter than an N-frame (1.56-inch) but not nearly as big as an X-frame (1.875-inch). Approximately 1.625-1.7 inch in diameter, just enough material to safely contain our moderately powerful 12x24mm GRD cartridge. The cylinder would be short, ~1.5 inch which is shorter than a K-frame. The fire control would be a traditional double/single action with a light-weight short-spur hammer to encourage double action shooting (double action is what real men use for all but super long range shots). The grip frame would be a round butt. The OEM grips would be round butt, rubber, without finger grooves. Square butt conversion grips would be available for you heathens. (Finger grooves would void the warranty.) The cylinder would be fluted, non-fluted cylinders would not be made or allowed (too damn ugly and no class). It would come in brushed or bead blasted stainless steel or for the Mall Ninjas a tough PVD flat-black finish would be available.(no damn shiny, chrome, or polished blued finish this ain’t no damn safe queen)

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I am not much of a free hand artist so take that drawing with a larger grain of salt. Now that would be a damn near perfect revolver!
 
This is a curiosity and conversation post.

If you could have any one (1x) revolver built to your specifications, what would it be ?


My personal choice would be a USFA SAA, in .45 Colt, w/ a 3” tapered barrel, birdshead grip, Bisley hammer, and hook style front sight, with extended base pin, total coverage engraving by any given master; and built as a Sheriff’s Mdl- milled flat where the ERH would normally protrude through the frame…


Fantasy revolver? Ohhh, I'll play.

For carry, A Ruger LCR rendering of a .44 Bulldog. 2" or 3" barrel. It's going to be bigger than current LCR-s, of course. The usual replaceable front sight -- have it come with green fiber or a tritium dot. CT Lasergrip, either boot or 3 finger grip, as options. Have it come with 2 good speedloaders, and pouch for same.
 
A more modern Nagant revolver. Think about the applications. It seals , having better velocities, and makes it a good suppressor host. Modernize it a bit, maybe top break or swing out instead of a loading gate. Chambered in anything,really, the round doesn't matter to me.
 
I wrote this awhile ago for another forum. I have posted it here once or two since so I hope another repeat is OK. Don't take any of it too serious or too personally. :D

How about this? I want a revolver that reloads fast, has enough power to hunt with but not so over-powered as to be abusive on my wrists or ears. It needs to throw fat heavy bullets. It has to work with or without moonclips. It’s got to be fun and easy. This is not a concealed carry revolver. With a shorter barrel it might have served as a good service/duty revolver in a bygone and less civilized era but it would be for open carry in the woods, on the tractor, hunting, or punching big holes in cardboard and scaring all the old guys at an IDPA match. It needs to blend the features of Webley Mark VI into the classic lines of a 6XX N-frame with the full underlug barrel. It needs to be big but not wholly unwieldy.

So first we need a new cartridge. 12x24mm GRD (Grumpy Revolver Dude). 12x24mm GRD is short and fat for quick reliable loading and ejecting from a revolver. It launches big bore 12mm bullets (.475-inch diameter for you imperial bastards). Max pressure would be a moderate 24,000 psi with a goal of 600-800 ft-lbs of muzzle energy depending on bullet weight. The moderate pressure would keep it easy on your ears, especially when hunting with no ear-pro. Heavy bullets (~400gr) would be sub-sonic at 800-850 fps. Light bullets in the 275 gr range, would approach 1200fps. Case length would be 24mm and would be semi-rimless (yes I said semi-rimless, pay attention!). The case would use large pistol primers (Why not?). A large extractor groove to allow the use of very thick (.040-.050 inch thick) robust moonclips (MOONCLIPS RULE!!!) in the large extractor groove. Semi-rimless (<- see it was important ->) would also allow the cartridges to head space on the cartridge rim in the absence of moonclips. The cylinder would be cut much as a cylinder for an rimmed cartridge is cut for moonclips

Now the Revolver: It would be a top break revolver with a locking mechanism similar to the old Webley Mark VI (why? because top break revolvers need to make a comeback). Don’t worry with the moderate pressure of 12x24mm GRD and modern metallurgy we can keep a top break revolver from doing a grenade impersonation. It would have a thumb lever to break down the revolver on both sides making it completely ambidextrous. Auto ejection on opening (Duh!). It would have a full under-lug barrel like a S&W N-frame (it looks good and sucks up the recoil). It would come in 3, 4, 5, and 6.5 inch barrels. Slip-in replaceable front sights like many of the new S&W revolvers (Not sure why this is not on more revolvers). The rear sight would be fixed (fixed sights are fixed and that is good), machined into the top break latch like a Webley. Though the frame would be drilled and tapped for a scope mount or adjustable rear sight. The adjustable rear sights would require a sight-less low-profile top break latch to be installed. The cylinder would be a 6-shot cylinder that would be slightly larger in diameter than an N-frame (1.56-inch) but not nearly as big as an X-frame (1.875-inch). Approximately 1.625-1.7 inch in diameter, just enough material to safely contain our moderately powerful 12x24mm GRD cartridge. The cylinder would be short, ~1.5 inch which is shorter than a K-frame. The fire control would be a traditional double/single action with a light-weight short-spur hammer to encourage double action shooting (double action is what real men use for all but super long range shots). The grip frame would be a round butt. The OEM grips would be round butt, rubber, without finger grooves. Square butt conversion grips would be available for you heathens. (Finger grooves would void the warranty.) The cylinder would be fluted, non-fluted cylinders would not be made or allowed (too damn ugly and no class). It would come in brushed or bead blasted stainless steel or for the Mall Ninjas a tough PVD flat-black finish would be available.(no damn shiny, chrome, or polished blued finish this ain’t no damn safe queen)

index.php

I am not much of a free hand artist so take that drawing with a larger grain of salt. Now that would be a damn near perfect revolver!

Now just give it a barrel at 6 o clock instead of 12 and you’ve got a winner.
 
Exactly, but everything else as MCB described. A top break instead of swing out cylinder. I wouldn’t mind it being in .50GI with moonclips instead of an entirely new round.
I like the idea actually. The low bore axis would make it a good host for heavier rounds.
 
Another N frame 357 registered magnum, 5", nickel, with Keith's ivory grips with a steer head on one side and a rattlesnake on the other. I had a 5" when I was young and foolish (foolisher?) and won't admit what I traded it for.
Failing that, A Keith #5.
 
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Another N frame 357 registered magnum, 5", nickel, with Keith's ivory grips with a steer head on one side and a rattled on the other. I had a 5" when I was young and foolish (foolisher?) and won't admit what I traded it for.
Failing that, A Keith #5.
It was a hi point huh.
 
I'd be happy with a nice , new old stock S&W model 27-2 with a 3.5 inch barrel. The thing is, it has to have been made/shipped in 63, which is the year I was manufactured shipped. Target grips, hammer & trigger with a gold bead front sight.
 
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