Loyalist Dave
Member
I was correct. The wood to metal fit is pretty good, so I'd say the person who built it was familiar with inletting, just not in all the fundamentals when it comes to a long rifle. Still an excellent buy.
LD
LD
One thing that struck me, and I'm not that knowledgable, is that most everything is pinned. The ramrod thimbles, the trigger guard, all pinned thru the stock. Is this common? Also the lack of escutcheons around the barrel wedges.There is no cheek piece. This is a left handed rifle. There us carving on oppoView attachment 781680 site side.
Thanks for that information.Yes, on a longrifle it is.
Wow.I feel like I stole it, they didnt know if it shoots or not, i gave $40 for it.
Some additional info. Underside of barrel marked Getz Beavertown, PA No.432 .50 1/66" 50 cal 1 in 66 twist. Is gets the gun maker or the barrel maker? Could the stock have been done by Bob Lepley? Could this be a Chambers built rifle?. Are there any tricks to removing the lock, should it be in the cocked or fired position?Any relief carving on the cheekpiece?
Underside of barrel marked Getz. Its 50 cal. 1 in 66 twist. Should the lock be on the cocked or fired position before removing? Should tje set triggers be removed first?The markings are probably underneath the barrel or inside the lock. That might shed some light.
Its kind of difficult to narrow down as to what 'School' or 'County' characteristics the builder followed, as he put a deep curvature on the butt plate and included a lot of brass furniture on that rifle. I would definitely put it under a Southern style although of no particular School or County but possibly a mixture of styles from western North Carolina.
As far as who built it, there are a lot of builders out there.
I believe you are correct on the barrel maker. Didn't know if he also made rifles.If you remove the triggers first, it won't matter which position it is in. (though you could accidentally 'fire' it if it is in the cocked position) If you choose to remove the lock without removing the trigger group (It isn't necessary), then you will need to have it in the fired position. 1:66 is for round ball, too slow of a twist for conicals.
This may be your barrel maker, Don Getz.
http://contemporarymakers.blogspot.com/2014/12/don-getz.html
I'm not left handed, but I loved the looks of this rifle. Trying to get a crash course on flintlocks, as I know nearly nothing about them.My goodness I would love to find a deal like that. Are you left handed? I am not but I would at least try shooting it. I bet even with some of the "Flaws" pointed out it would sell on GB for several hundred dollars just because of the quality of the parts. I have four percussion rifles and have thought about getting a rock sparker.
Every once in a while a blind squirrel finds an acorn. I know nothing about these guns, but it looked like quality.Not many components on that rifle that would be worth only $40. Choosing a Getz barrel, that says a lot about the builder and the resultant quality of rifle you have.
Cussed thief....
....only cussing because I didn't get to see it first.....
Trying to get a crash course on flintlocks, as I know nearly nothing about them.
Thanks, I'll have to check this out.I almost gave up on BP rifle shooting because I couldn't get any accuracy from my gun. Then I bought a book written by Sam Fadala and learned what it took to load and shoot these rifles. My biggest problem was poorly made, undersized patches that were burning up. I highlt recommend you get one of his manuals. You can find them on ebay for a decent price. This is the copy I have. Newer editions are available but this one worked for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/The-Comple...254376&hash=item1edb9067cd:g:gu0AAOSwI~taT~J3