Looking to Start Reloading

AJC1 said:

murf said:

i would also suggest one of the "bullet manufacturer" manuals (e.g. speer, hornady, sierra). i think two reloading manuals as a minimum

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There are links to free older reloading manuals floating around. The front mater which teaches the process is different in almost every one. Read as many as you can for free.

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+1 for reloading basics and safety practice content at the front of the manuals. I have Lyman #49 and highly recommend it for the reloading basics content.

FYI, here's Lyman #48 pdf - http://marvinstuart.com/firearm/Manuals/Reloading/Reloading Manuals/Lyman Reloading Handbook - 48th Edition - 2002 - ocr.pdf


If you are looking for load data, there are plenty available both older archived or current online.

Older manufacturers' manual pdf - http://www.castpics.net/LoadData/Freebies/default.html

2004 Alliant load data (No longer available on Alliant website) contains many lead and FMJ loads not available currently from Alliant - http://www.thehighroad.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=182147&d=1364769070


And I really like Speer online load data as it has multiple powder brand load data (Including newer powders) along with start charges that Alliant doesn't list on their current load data.

Speer pistol online load data - https://www.speer.com/reloading/handgun-data.html

Speer rifle online load data - https://www.speer.com/reloading/rifle-data.html


Of course, Hodgdon online load data which has current loads for Hodgdon/IMR/Winchester powders with probably the largest number of pistol bullet types, including lead - http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/


And each powder manufacturer offers current load data on their website - http://www.accuratepowder.com/load-data/

Alliant - http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/index.aspx


And many powders domestically sold were made by other countries like Shooters World powders made by Lovex. You can find same/comparable powder listing on this thread, especially now with more popular powders not readily available - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-different-labels.797388/page-6#post-10806193

Back when I was researching presses the kits only saved you a couple bucks and that means they only made sense if your actually going to use every component of the kit. I think your much better of researching, reading reviews, and determining for yourself which tools you'll need and buy accordingly. None of the kits contained everything I wanted and all of them contained stuff I'd never use.

I started on a single stage and quickly moved onto a progressive. If you can learn how to reload on a single stage, you can learn to reload on a progressive. It might take a couple more minutes to set it up, but you can run 1 die at a time and treat it like a single stage press at the beginning. If you shoot 100 rounds or more every month I'd be looking thinking about a progressive unless you've got lots of free time. I enjoy reloading, but I also enjoy having time to shoot.

Anyone that can't take a Dillon 550/750 out of the box and have it up and running in a couple of hours, just using the supplied manual, really shouldn't be reloading.

The setup isn't that hard and only really takes about 30 minutes.

Texas10mm said:

Dillon 550/750 ... The setup isn't that hard and only really takes about 30 minutes.

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Dillon 550/750 are great presses.

But OP is just starting out reloading multiple calibers and haven't expressed a budget.
With ABLP/Pro 4000, caliber change is easy, quick and the lowest cost compared to any other progressive press.

So if you factor multiple caliber change cost, it may exceed OP's initial budget. Mind you, would I make an argument for Dillon presses that cost of reloading equipment will be less relevant compared to component cost of lifetime of reloading? (I spent over $175,000 during 25+ years of reloading over 600,000 rounds not counting rifle rounds and most of the money went to components) Yes I would, but often people wanting to try reloading may not want to part with $1000+ when they would be more likely to part with several hundred dollars which they could recoup in about a year of reloading.

And if you haven't used ABLP/Pro 4000, for me, what ultimately matters is the consistency of finished rounds' dimensions and ABLP/Pro 4000 is capable of producing consistency of finished dimensions on par with Dillon 550/650. And it comes with case feeder option to increase production rate.

For one, I can change from SP to LP in seconds and swap out dies in bushings and be loading a different caliber within minutes.

For another, I can prime cases down to last primer in the chute and refill primer tray to resume reloading within minutes.

For another, I can meter Sport Pistol with less than .05 gr variance for thousands of rounds without having to verify powder charge weight as QC check with $1 modded PAD that provides infinite adjustment of powder charge.

And pesky spent primers on the floor? What pesky spent primers as they are nicely captured into a plastic bottle along with all the dirty fouling.

I don't like the kits, they come with a lot of stuff you don't need, or will ever use. Start with a good press, and dies, get a digital scale, work up from there.

I'd buy individual pieces , don't need everything all at once. Buy new, so you know it's all there and not abused or worn out.

I started out reloading by buying a Hornady Lock 'N' Load kit, but quickly upgraded the scale to a digital one, then bought a Lee case trimmer, Lee priming tool, a Lyman case tumbler and have added dies as needed for the calibers I load, I haven't been brand loyal, I use a Hornady die set for my Grendel, Lee for my .38/.357 and .41 Magnum, my 10mm/.40S&W, and RCBS for everything else (9mm, .45 Auto, .300 BLK, 7.62x51).You'll keep adding accessories, like case gauges, or extra case holders for your calibers. I still use a single stage press but once you get a rhythm going you can churn out several hundred rounds in an afternoon. I separate my process into 2 major steps, case prep and load; 1st step is throw them in the tumbler when I get back from the range, then deprime, size and trim (if necessary), chamfer (rifle cases) and bag the brass to store it. 2nd step is to prime, charge and seat when I run low on a particular caliber. Breaking the steps up allows me to process brass much faster.

If you know what you want, which assumes you know something about reloading, buy the parts individually rather than a kit. Best is to find someone who's reloaded for a while, and see what their setup is like, have them walk you through the equipment and why they like it.

Just prepare yourself for the addiction. Once you fire that first round you made it takes a few minutes to wipe the grin off your face, next thing you know you will want to cast your own bullets.

Step 1; before you make any decisions read this sticky
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ding-equipment-basics-read-this-first.238214/

Step 2; think about what you want to do with your reloads. Just trying to save money? Depending on what you buy, it could take years before your equipment cost amortizes to lower cost ammo. Even longer if you don't shoot a lot. You will be loading for the fun of it this way.
If you want customized ammo that can outperform factory fodder, you'll likely care less about the cost. You can learn to do this amazingly fast.

Step 3; study this forum. Some of the most knowledgeable reloading experts in the world use this site and freely share their knowledge. Ask questions. Lots of questions. And pay close attention to the answers. There is a steep learning curve in this hobby and you must be ready to learn.

Step 4; Load, shoot, repeat! And most of all, be safe!

I bought the Hornady LnL single stage kit when I started. I was looking at different options and leaning toward piecing it all together when the kit went on clearance at Midway. Couldn't pass up $200 plus shipping. Added dies and components and got started.

I've since added other things that I needed or wanted. But it can be done on a budget.

Go slow, double check everything, stay safe, and have fun.

And welcome to THR!

chris

What I ask anyone wanting to reload.
1 How many rounds do you plan to load in a month?
2 how much time can you allocate to loading?
3 what is your budget for your hardware?
4 are you mechanically inclined?
5 do you have a dedicated space to load and store components?
6 can you get components locally?
7 is there someone close by that can mentor you?

Once those are answered we can go from there.

LiveLife said:

OP is planning to reload .38/.357, 9mm and .223

If OP ends up reloading .380, 40S&W and 30-30 also (Mostly semi-auto calibers), OP will need a progressive with multiple caliber changes and could add a single stage press to load rifle cartridges.

If OP shoots a lot, there's going to be a lot of press handle pulling to keep up with the demand.

ABLP/Pro 4000 with case feeder/collator can provide high volume production of pistol and .223 rounds. (I still prefer to reload rifle cartridges on single stage)

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And after he buys a basic single stage press and gets the basics of reloading down, that would be a good choice for a progressive press, though I admit a bias towards Dillons. (Must be The Blue Press.) Like Grumulkin, I've never needed to load that many rounds that I've needed a progressive, and also like him, I've never loaded a squib, though with 9mm Whack-a-Mole steel cased reloads,(not a good idea, BTW) I did blow a magazine out of a Kel-tec SUB2000. The other main plus to a single stage is you can control the process completely, particularly the powder measuring. (If you don't use the volumetric measure that come with the kit.) I use Lee dippers and an RCBS 505 scale. "Throw charge" is as accurate as I care to be with it.
Even with shotgun reloading for Trap, where I have already loaded up @ 3000 rounds this year, I still use my old basic MEC 600 jr., the gateway drug, er, entry level shotgun press. Sure I could crank out 1000 in a 2 hour session with a Spolar, but I don't see the need.

There is more complexity to progressives, as a trade off for the higher production rate. Along with less precision, though, progressives when running well, make good ammo. With my single stage, I make mine perfectly to my specifications, and I tend to be a perfectionist, and a bit OCD when it comes to reloading.

Armored Farmer sums up my feeling as well in his post:

Armored farmer said:

I have had great enjoyment and self reliance from my simple single stage Lee equipment.
A single stage is a great match for my revolvers and single shot rifles and leverguns.
If you're a habitual mag dumper, you're gonna want a progressive.

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Cokeman said:

Lots of good info. Here are a few responses to some other of your advice and questions:

I figured I would start with straight walled cartridges.

I’m not sure what my budget is. I’m still trying to decide. $200 - $400?

I do have a place to reload and store components.

.38 special, 9mm, and .223 are what I shoot the most.

I don’t shoot a ton. Probably 100 - 200 each month of reloadable ammo. I have thousands of empty cases that I have saved over the years. I figure it would be better to reload them instead of buying new ammo.

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Single stage press to start, if you shoot more, which is likely, then you can look into a progressive. Aside from the current bump in ammo prices, you won't really be saving on 9mm or .223 plinking ammo, but for .38 and definitely for .357, you will. Where you'll save the money with .223 will be precision target and hunting ammo.As others have mentioned, you'll recoup your investment quicker with a single stage, and if it really takes off for you after you've been loading for a while, you can add a progressive and have the best of both worlds; the single stage for prcision loading, and the progressive for cranking out range fodder.

I would start out with a single stage setup. 200rnds a month is not a lot and one of the kits should be within your $400 budget. I like the RCBS equipment.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013036852?pid=937051

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1013036427?pid=828368

Either of these would give you everything you need to start except Dies and supplies. Now supplies is were you are going to have an issue. Right now Primers are hard to find and some powders are getting there. So don't expect them to be plentiful and cheap.

The other thing I would recommend is to try and find someone in your local area that can show you the reloading ropes so to say. See if its even something you would like before you spend your money on tools and such. I know some gun clubs offer class or maybe check around at your local range.

Best of luck
WB

You're in the same boat as me 10 years ago and this is the right place for some answers.

A few recommendations.

1. Pick one pistol caliber and buy a hammer operated $29 Lee Loader and start with that.

It's a great cheap introduction and keeps things simple. Simplicity will make you safer in the beginning. Use an assembly line type process. I started with the 9mm Lee Loader. I made a couple thousand 9mm rounds that way before buying a press at all. It's $29 and will scratch the itch and help you decide what you need next. At the same time I'd buy #2 below and a scale with good reviews. Priming and scoop-measuring powder suck with the Lee Loader so don't bother.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012833230?pid=702138

2. Buy this ($60) RCBS primer tool. I could not imagine a better one. Maybe there is, but this one is perfect.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012924740?pid=319794

3. Buy this ($26) powder measure and a powder trickler
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1012837257?pid=540522

4. Be methodical. Measure the living hell out of everything, all the time. Have a system.

5. Make sure every case has powder. No powder can be as dangerous as too much.

6. Good luck finding primers, powder and bullets right now If you can't find it online check the local gun shops. Buy as much as you can afford as long as you know you'll use it all eventually.

Have fun! Look at it as a hobby, not a money saving exercise.

Cokeman said:

.38 special, 9mm, and .223 are what I shoot the most.

I don’t shoot a ton. Probably 100 - 200 each month of reloadable ammo. I have thousands of empty cases that I have saved over the years. I figure it would be better to reload them instead of buying new ammo.

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I am on my second go around as a reloader, the first being back in the 1980's before the internet, before turret press and progressives became popular. I learned from a friend on a single stage press RCBS press and then bought my own Bonanza "68" single stage press, RCBS 505 scale, Lee powder dippers and RCBS dies along with a Speer #10 Manual. I reloaded may a 375 magnum with just that stuff for a few years and did just fine.

On this second go around I went with what I previously learned and as I knew that once again all I was ever going to load would be pistol calibers I then also knew I did not want to do it again on a single stage press.

100/200 rounds each month can easily be accomplished on a single stage press yet still I would recommend either a Lee Turret press or the Lee Pro4000 press. Like LiveLife I also have one of each of those presses along with an RCBS JR3 and another Progressive. Both of those presses can very easily be run in single stage operation simply by removing the Advance rod or by only loading one shell at a time. So there is no need to spend money on a single stage press only to spend money again a year from now to buy a small Turret or Progressive press like these two mentioned.

Unlike what someone else always suggests, "Don't waste your money on a Lee Turret or Progressive press, Spend more money on a GOOD PRESS", and then in a year from now spend more money on a second press because the first press doesn't keep up.

The Dillon and Hornady progressive presses are fantastic machines but in my mind one better be loading more than 500 rounds per month every month to get the full advantage from them. The Lee Turret Presses and the Pro series Progressives were built and designed to be used with pistol caliber and short rifle cases and will load them cheaply and very reliably. The trade off between the turret and the Pro4000 is one needs Turret heads and one need shell plates and Die bushings. The Turret heads are less expensive. Then if you buy Lee dies they also already come with press shell holders.

The videos I recommend;

ANother thing I didn’t see mentioned is a logbook to keep records. Log each load you make so down the road you can reference it and see what worked and what didn’t. Keep track of which bullet, primer, and which powder and how much, the oal, how it felt when you fired it, how the accuracy was, and anything else you can think of. Otherwise you will be wasting components at some point duplicating something that didn’t work once before.

Also good lighting, a do not disturb sign, and if you are tired or stressed out, wait till later to load.

I started with the Lee Classic Turret kit and picked up others at auctions and trade days, I use the majority of the items that came with the kit and I have multiples of some. I like the Lee reloading book, I think the front instructional section is well written for a beginner, another good book is The ABCs of Reloading. Good luck in your adventure.

Cokeman said:

1. 100 - 200 per month?
2. Lots
3. $200 - $400?
4. Very
5. Yes and yes
6. Possibly. There are lots of gun stores in Utah
7. Not sure

What should I expect to pay for primers, bullets, and powder? I know ammo prices, not reloading component prices. What types of each would I need for .38 special? I figure that’s the best to start with.

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5 dollars for 100 primers is the most I have paid ever. Bullets are very brand dependant. Powder should not be over 30 dollars a pound.

I can tell you as a newer reloader who’s only been doing this less than a year...just start reloading!!! It’s awesome, this forum is awesome, the people on this forum are awesome!!!
When you’re loading rounds for half the cost with twice the performance of standard factory rounds, it’s gonna put a huge smile on your face.
My only advice is this isn’t a hobby for the absent minded. Always stay focused for your own safety and you’ll be just fine. That, and use Vihtavuori powder!!) Lol!! I just tried for the first time today and it’s hands down the best.

Yeah $24 for 1000 CCI's sm pistol is a good price. Go for it.