In addition to what Mauser lover wrote above... If you want the ultimate short reset and 1911-level trigger pull, you can get it with the single action only conversion, some additional Cajun Gun Works parts, and no firing pin block. The entire range of fore-and-aft movement of the trigger on my 85 Combat (top center in the photo below) is within the thickness of the trigger (at the vertical center of the trigger). The gun has the following parts in it:Is there anything that can be done about this reset besides removing the firing pin block? I spent the money on the CGW SRS-1 short reset kit, and in retrospect, shouldn't have, because I can't really see how it did anything at all. The extended firing pin is in theory a boost to reliability, but in terms of decreasing my reset or improving my trigger pull, I can't really see much, if any, difference. I tried to run a few mags of drills through it the other day, but I just can't get over this atrociously long reset. Any time I try to run her fast or maintain any sort of cadence, I keep hanging up and not full resetting the trigger. It is annoying.
CZ 527 could be in 223.
Is there anything that can be done about this reset besides removing the firing pin block? I spent the money on the CGW SRS-1 short reset kit, and in retrospect, shouldn't have, because I can't really see how it did anything at all. The extended firing pin is in theory a boost to reliability, but in terms of decreasing my reset or improving my trigger pull, I can't really see much, if any, difference. I tried to run a few mags of drills through it the other day, but I just can't get over this atrociously long reset. Any time I try to run her fast or maintain any sort of cadence, I keep hanging up and not full resetting the trigger. It is annoying.
Yes, there is. Let me get what you have done already figured out.
Did you convert to single action only (pretty sure you have)?
Have you replaced the hammer?
I think you have the right parts to decrease the reset (Cajun Gun Works short reset kit), and you do not need to remove the firing pin block to decrease the reset.
If you did convert to SA only, you can make your reset length very short (think... almost 1911 short). I need to take mine apart to remember what I've done to mine. Mine is an 85, I'll need to see what the difference is between mine and yours.
Check out this thread. I think it's okay to link to it? I hope?
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/191773-cz-tuning-101-with-professor-atlas/
And check this one out too.
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/265569-cz-open-build-theory/
Okay, long reset... Part of this is the length of the single action (henceforth "SA") trigger pull with the stock hammer. The CZ stock SA trigger pull is pretty good for a service pistol (okay, it's really good for a service pistol) but isn't anything to write home about if you are already shooting "Limited" division or better. Some of this trigger pull length is the depth of the sear engagement surface ("hooks", it's easier and faster to type) on the hammer. If you don't want to change the hammer out (or modify the existing one) there is nothing you can do about this length, or the camming back of the hammer as you pull the trigger.
Some of the length of trigger pull is overtravel, which you should have taken care of with that SA only trigger and its overtravel adjustment screw. I'm guessing you already took care of that, and also trust that you do allow enough overtravel to not allow the hooks on the hammer to contact the trigger while the hammer is falling.
Part of the trigger pull length is the disengagement of the firing pin safety. For the ideal short trigger pull, you would take this out and throw it away. I'm thinking you want to avoid this though, so we'll do the best we can. This safety is the last thing to reset when the trigger goes back forward. Your short reset kit from Cajun should make it about as good as it's going to get. Notice I said "should".
On my gun (CZ-85 that I got off the classifieds section of THR) that I use for competitions, I purchased a short reset kit, an adjustable sear, longer firing pin, race hammer, SA trigger, etc. I didn't use the short reset kit, because I took out the firing pin safety (legal for Limited, but not Production division, same as the SA only trigger). I took out all DA parts, and I'm very happy with the results. If I put the firing pin safety (and the lifter in the sear cage) back in, the trigger reset is long(ish) again. I replaced the lifter with just a spacer.
Now, it isn't resetting at all....
I had this problem. I was trying to get the absolute most out of my pretravel adjustment screw on my trigger, and I was not letting it forward far enough. I fiddled with this to the point that I had it set perfectly, it would reset every time in the shop without a hint of pretravel before the sear started lifting. You know what happened? As soon as I got to the range to test it out, I had to push the trigger forward every shot to get it to reset. The fix? Let it have just a little bit of pretravel. I had to allow a bit of pretravel before it starts lifting the sear, you need to have just a hint of pretravel before the trigger starts lifting the lifter for the firing pin block.
If it isn't that... did you replace the trigger return spring?
Sorry for the late reply, I forgot to open up my gun to take a look. Sorry....
Also, give Cajun a call, they will try to sell you parts, but they will tell you what you need. They talked to me for a good while about what I needed. They might not be able to help right away, but they will help eventually.
hmmm.... pics?
I know it is kind of a pain, but you can try putting the stock lifter spring back in, seeing if that works; if it doesn't, try putting in the original lifter, see if that works, etc.
It sounds like something is either installed wrong, out of spec, or maybe Cajun sent you the wrong parts. Pics will let us know if they are installed wrong, but not be able to rule out something being out of spec.
I can't think of any way that a heavier lifter spring would mess this up, even if you have changed all the other springs.
What is that red dot? Does it just replace the rear sight or is that on optic-ready slide?View attachment 939708 View attachment 939709 View attachment 939710 View attachment 939711
It's like cheating when you shoot them. The double taps are almost accidental, just oops...i hit the gong again.
What is that red dot? Does it just replace the rear sight or is that on optic-ready slide?