Looking to Start Reloading

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Sportsman’s Warehouse has some win231 on sale right now. Click in clearance on the top right area and it is in there. Good price and a good powder.
I found Hodgdon HP38 for $25 per pound which I think is a decent price right now. I’ve heard it’s the same as the Winchester 231.
 
I found Hodgdon HP38 for $25 per pound which I think is a decent price right now. I’ve heard it’s the same as the Winchester 231.

That is a good powder, I use a lot of it and have about 3lbs. right now. I normally find it at the $30.00 per lb. price range. So if local to you go buy a couple pounds, you won't be disappointed.
 
What specifically do you like about W231? It's in the same burn rate vicinity as Tightgroup, Clean Shot, Accurate #2, Bullseye and N320. I started using Clean Shot recently and like it a lot. It meters very consistently, very light recoil profile, it's less than $20 a pounds and it burns clean. I used to use Bullseye and liked it as well but it was very dirty. I've heard the same thing about Tightgroup (will have similar positive characteristics but it's dirty).
 
What specifically do you like about W231? It's in the same burn rate vicinity as Tightgroup, Clean Shot, Accurate #2, Bullseye and N320. I started using Clean Shot recently and like it a lot. It meters very consistently, very light recoil profile, it's less than $20 a pounds and it burns clean. I used to use Bullseye and liked it as well but it was very dirty. I've heard the same thing about Tightgroup (will have similar positive characteristics but it's dirty).
What are you loading with those powders?
 
I haven't tried all of those powders, just clean shot and bullseye from that list. For slower burning powders I have used True Blue and CFE Pistol. Right now I'm loading 9mm, 40 and 357 sig.
 
What specifically do you like about W231? It's in the same burn rate vicinity as Tightgroup, Clean Shot, Accurate #2, Bullseye and N320.

1. it's usually readily available, 2. covers a wide spectrum of calibers, 3. It is way more forgiving than Titegroup. Doesn't spike pressure. 4. With 9mm a double charge will overflow the case. 5. Burns pretty completely even at minimum levels. I now have my powders pared down HP-38, AA#2 and Ramshot Silhouette.
 
I read that one last night after posting my question. So, roll crimp for .38/.357?
Depends on the bullet. If the bullet has a cannelure or crimp groove than a roll crimp will work. If you buy plated bullets or some other type of bullet that doesn't have a place to roll crimp than a taper crimp will work.

A light roll crimp is basically the same as a taper crimp.
 
That is a good powder, I use a lot of it and have about 3lbs. right now. I normally find it at the $30.00 per lb. price range. So if local to you go buy a couple pounds, you won't be disappointed.
I bought the last two.
 
Depends on the bullet. If the bullet has a cannelure or crimp groove than a roll crimp will work. If you buy plated bullets or some other type of bullet that doesn't have a place to roll crimp than a taper crimp will work.

A light roll crimp is basically the same as a taper crimp.
How would I choose which one then? Both? I now have brass, powder, primers, and now need bullets. Which .38 bullets should I be looking at?
 
How would I choose which one then? Both? I now have brass, powder, primers, and now need bullets. Which .38 bullets should I be looking at?

Buy the die set with the roll crimp. If you adjust it too just kiss the brass, it will apply a taper crimp. Adjust it down a bit more and you'll get a roll crimp.

Bullets are a different animal. Each gun likes what it likes. My Colt .357 likes 158gr bullets and is very accurate with them, so that's what I load for it. I have shot factory 130gr .38spcl through it and accuracy suffers, but my 158gr .38spcl reloads are as accurate as my .357 reloads.

I like these for my Colt.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010791376?pid=450955

A bit pricey now, but I found them on sale last year and stocked up. I think my cost is around $12 per box of 50. I load them with w231 using 3.9gr for the .38 loads, and 6.8gr for the .357 loads. I also use H110 for some serious .357 loads. Double check all load data and work your loads up using books or manufactures websites.

chris
 
Bullets can be as variable as powders. Some is dependent on what it is you want to do. Punch paper a Wadcutter or Semi-wadcutter works very well. self defense, a hollow point. But then there are still Round Nose, Flat Point, Conical. Then weights can range from 100gr up to over 160gr. Then you decide cast lead, plated, jacketed or powder coated.

The best thing about actual bullets is that you can look locally for availability or you can buy on-line and there is no Hazmat charge. So watch for the best sale. When I first started with reloading it was with a 357mag and all I ever loaded were either 148gr lead Wadcutters or 158gr lead SWC's..
 
How would I choose which one then? Both? I now have brass, powder, primers, and now need bullets. Which .38 bullets should I be looking at?

It's generally easier to set OAL and determine where to crimp when a bullet has a crimp groove or cannelure. When starting out you might as well make it as easy as possible. Any jacketed or lead 158 grain round nose bullet or 158 grain semi-wadcutter should work.
 
So you would also recommend a new shooter start with a single shot?

Since there is no way to determine anything about the OP's mindset or mechanical skill set, would you recommend they start with multiple operations they potentially don't fully understand all happening at the same time? Seems like pretty foolish advice to me...YMMV
 
You do realize that on Lee ABLP/Pro 4000, index rod can be easily removed to use the press as a single stage press?

And on any progressive press, a single case can be run through to use as a turret press?

And same advice of gaining experience before moving on to progressive reloading was already made to the OP?

Yes, that's possible, but again, we have no information on the mindset or mechanical skill of the OP, so why not recommend a simple machine and safety over something more complex? It's not like a single stage or turret will never be useful, even after a move to a progressive press. Why not focus on safety for someone who is new to reloading?
 
What brand of .38\.357 dies are recommended? I keep seeing carbide sets which people seem to like.
 
I’m thinking about getting into reloading and am in the research stage, so I have lots of questions. I’m trying to decide which press to start with. Is it better to get a kit or buy the parts separate? I’m sure separate would be more expensive. Which kits are good for someone starting out? I would be doing .38 special/.357 mag , 9mm, and .223. Is it better to buy used or new?

I have been loading only for a couple of years. I only load 9mm and 12 ga. I started with a Hornady classic single stage new for the 9mm and a MEC Jr, 600 used for shotgun. I basically learned with those presses and appropriate books, forums, and You tube. For 9mm I then went to turret press and now Dillon Square Deal B progressive used and for shotgun MEC progressive. With each press I take them down (new or used) clean them replace worn parts (used presses) and put them back together to understand how they work. Have not had any issues and now have the confidence (IMO) needed to reload. I have acquired all the items needed to check work, specifications, etc. and I thoroughly enjoy the process. Again, in my opinion, keeping focused is one of the most important aspects of the reloading process. For me at least, it is not a money saving venture yet but may at least break even some day. I think a good tip is to buy used as the service from the manufacturers is excellent for refreshing used equipment specifically Lee, MEC, and Dillon.For example, I emailed Dillon and told them that the tension on the powder adjustment nut on the used press I bought was not enough to ensure that there was no movement. They sent me no charge a complete powder bar assembly. Also, most of the info from the forums and You Tube is excellent. ENJOY RELOADING
 
Buy good quality and save money by shopping around. i've picked up dies at an auction and bought one from a local guy and it's been a mistake both times. Maybe just my luck because I've sold some for my brother and know those were good. But, in general, my advice is to buy new.
 
You cant go wrong with a simple Lee kit. It is very basic but can at least get you started. It can handle all pistol and small rifle. Then this allows you to upgrade to better equipment. First upgrade is a new powder scale. The Lee scale is garbage. They money you save getting the Lee press you can use to buy nicer dies. I use all RCBS. You will find what works best for you.
 
You cant go wrong with a simple Lee kit. It is very basic but can at least get you started. It can handle all pistol and small rifle. Then this allows you to upgrade to better equipment. First upgrade is a new powder scale. The Lee scale is garbage. They money you save getting the Lee press you can use to buy nicer dies. I use all RCBS. You will find what works best for you.

Totally agree. As for scales, I use an RCBS 500 manual mainly because it’s the same scale we used in chem and physics labs in school. Familiarity doesn’t breed contempt; it breeds confidence and competancy.
 
I can tell you at least one progressive press to stay far away from and that is the Lee Load-Master. I bought one and ended up returning it right away. The primer feed system on the Load-Master is total junk! Primers would jam up in the chute and the press would either not feed a primer into the case or feed it sideways causing it to jam. No amount of reading the instructions or watching the instructional videos helped.

Now I have alway get great results using the Lee single stage and Lee turret presses.
 
You do realize that on Lee ABLP/Pro 4000, index rod can be easily removed to use the press as a single stage press?

And on any progressive press, a single case can be run through to use as a turret press?

And same advice of gaining experience before moving on to progressive reloading was already made to the OP?

Of course, but since we don't know the technical skill of the OP, why not provide the safest advice?
 
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