I found Hodgdon HP38 for $25 per pound which I think is a decent price right now. I’ve heard it’s the same as the Winchester 231.Sportsman’s Warehouse has some win231 on sale right now. Click in clearance on the top right area and it is in there. Good price and a good powder.
Good price!I found Hodgdon HP38 for $25 per pound which I think is a decent price right now. I’ve heard it’s the same as the Winchester 231.
I found Hodgdon HP38 for $25 per pound which I think is a decent price right now. I’ve heard it’s the same as the Winchester 231.
What are you loading with those powders?What specifically do you like about W231? It's in the same burn rate vicinity as Tightgroup, Clean Shot, Accurate #2, Bullseye and N320. I started using Clean Shot recently and like it a lot. It meters very consistently, very light recoil profile, it's less than $20 a pounds and it burns clean. I used to use Bullseye and liked it as well but it was very dirty. I've heard the same thing about Tightgroup (will have similar positive characteristics but it's dirty).
What specifically do you like about W231? It's in the same burn rate vicinity as Tightgroup, Clean Shot, Accurate #2, Bullseye and N320.
Depends on the bullet. If the bullet has a cannelure or crimp groove than a roll crimp will work. If you buy plated bullets or some other type of bullet that doesn't have a place to roll crimp than a taper crimp will work.I read that one last night after posting my question. So, roll crimp for .38/.357?
I bought the last two.That is a good powder, I use a lot of it and have about 3lbs. right now. I normally find it at the $30.00 per lb. price range. So if local to you go buy a couple pounds, you won't be disappointed.
How would I choose which one then? Both? I now have brass, powder, primers, and now need bullets. Which .38 bullets should I be looking at?Depends on the bullet. If the bullet has a cannelure or crimp groove than a roll crimp will work. If you buy plated bullets or some other type of bullet that doesn't have a place to roll crimp than a taper crimp will work.
A light roll crimp is basically the same as a taper crimp.
How would I choose which one then? Both? I now have brass, powder, primers, and now need bullets. Which .38 bullets should I be looking at?
How would I choose which one then? Both? I now have brass, powder, primers, and now need bullets. Which .38 bullets should I be looking at?
So you would also recommend a new shooter start with a single shot?
You do realize that on Lee ABLP/Pro 4000, index rod can be easily removed to use the press as a single stage press?
And on any progressive press, a single case can be run through to use as a turret press?
And same advice of gaining experience before moving on to progressive reloading was already made to the OP?
I’m thinking about getting into reloading and am in the research stage, so I have lots of questions. I’m trying to decide which press to start with. Is it better to get a kit or buy the parts separate? I’m sure separate would be more expensive. Which kits are good for someone starting out? I would be doing .38 special/.357 mag , 9mm, and .223. Is it better to buy used or new?
CarbideWhat brand of .38\.357 dies are recommended? I keep seeing carbide sets which people seem to like.
You cant go wrong with a simple Lee kit. It is very basic but can at least get you started. It can handle all pistol and small rifle. Then this allows you to upgrade to better equipment. First upgrade is a new powder scale. The Lee scale is garbage. They money you save getting the Lee press you can use to buy nicer dies. I use all RCBS. You will find what works best for you.
You do realize that on Lee ABLP/Pro 4000, index rod can be easily removed to use the press as a single stage press?
And on any progressive press, a single case can be run through to use as a turret press?
And same advice of gaining experience before moving on to progressive reloading was already made to the OP?
So you would also recommend a new shooter start with a single shot?