Lancaster AK-74 issue

Did you take the bolt carrier off, remove the bolt, and check to see if it is in the bolt carrier correctly? I would just see where it is catching with the dust cover off...pictures might help.

~Norinco

The bolt "locking back***" can be a function of the hammer putting a lot of upward pressure on the carrier and holding it up against the rails hard enough to stop it from moving easily. Depending on where the bolt assembly cuts are in the rails, it may actually pop the carrier up out of the rails slightly -- enough to lock it back.

If the carrier "locks back" when you operate it by hand, that can be fairly common, especially with a new rifle, and is usually not a real problem. The hammer in the semi-auto fire control group sits a little higher than the original full-auto version, and puts a little more upward pressure on the carrier. However, when firing, the carrier won't hang up as its velocity is high enough to bump it past the tight spots. And, the more you shoot it the smoother it gets.

As far as the extraction issue, there can be a couple of reasons, mostly ammo-related. Make sure your chamber is scrubbed out. Even might want to put a bore brush the fits the chamber tightly in a cordless drill and really ream it out. Some of the surplus ammo has coatings on the case that can melt slightly when the gun is hot, leaving residue behind that can really stick a case, and sometimes even cause headspace issues.

Possibly not an issue, especially if your rifle was assembled with a new, US-made barrel, but some kits are assembled with surplus barrels and those could have fouled chambers.

As far as the bolt rotating incorrectly or "grinding with the bolt carrier," that's pretty unlikely. AKs are built off of "parts kits" that were once fully functional rifles but which have been cut apart to sell here as "replacement" parts. Your carrier, bolt, and front trunion were all once assembled as part of a functional AK-74, so they work together fine. The issue, to whatever extent it is a real problem, is in the assembly of those parts into a new receiver.

If you clear the chamber and test fire it and the gun will not cycle reliably, then Atlantic and Lancaster will definitely help you.

-Sam

*** (There is no bolt hold-open mechanism on an AK, any time the bolt locks open, it's either a malfunction, or at least a friction issue.)

My Saiga was really really stiff when I first got it converted and the bolt did occasionally get stuck halfway back. I attribute this to it being in the break in stage and It does not happen at all if I make sure to pull it all the way back and let it go sharply.

Sam: do you think it might have something to do with his trigger spring being too strong? Is that what you are referring to when you say the hammer is exerting too much pressure?

Sam: do you think it might have something to do with his trigger spring being too strong? Is that what you are referring to when you say the hammer is exerting too much pressure?

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Well, it is a function of the pressure that the mainspring (that twisted one that operates the hammer) exerts on the hammer, which then tries to lift the carrier.

It isn't that the spring is too strong, and there's really nothing you could do about that anyway, but that the hammer is oriented slightly differently in semi-auto trigger groups than in the original design. It gets a bit more leverage to push up the carrier. On an awful lot of AK builds, especially new ones, if you cycle the bolt by hand, fairly slowly, you'll feel "tight" spots, and possibly even feel the carrier tilt up slightly at the very rear of its travel.

If you baby it, you can often get the bolt to hold open at the rear, just from that pressure. If you yank-and-let-fly, emulating actual live fire, it should cycle fine. And, when the action is being cycled by a fired round, it won't hang up at all.

Sounds like the OP's gun worked for a few shots and then had an extraction issue. I didn't quite understand if he's having problems when the gun is being fired, or just when operating by hand. If the gun "locks back" when he's live firing, the manufacturer should fix it.

-Sam

It sounds like a bolt issue and not the hammer exerting force issue to me.

I would think this might be something that would need resolved by the manufacturer.

Have you completely removed the bolt and bolt carrier and seen how they are fitting together? I'm not sure if they can be assembled "wrong" I would think there would only be one way they could go together... at least on my Saiga no matter how many times I took it apart it always went back together the right way.

Sam: You are right on about the gun catching a little if you baby it--how many rounds do you think it will take before my gun will cycle smoothly?

~Norinco

Shoot it more. Put a little grease on the hammer face, not too much . See how it will help.

The bolt got stuck as it was rotating in the bolt carrier. The only way to get to move was to hit it with a rubber mallet then remove the casing by hand. Sort of strange for an AK.

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That is strange for an AK. I'd have the manufacturer deal with it.

Good luck!

-Sam

how many rounds do you think it will take before my gun will cycle smoothly?

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When cycled by hand? Hard to say. It might never be completely without a slight hitch.

When fired? It should just plain run, always.

-Sam

Yeah , i would call the manufacturer , have them pay the shipping back and get you a new one. Period. U paid good money and it should work from the get go. The bad thing is , they have to send it to the FFL dealer again and u have to pay the second time for transfer fees.

Yes please contact us about the issue and we will get you in touch with the right person @ Lancaster to get this taken care of .

Good for you! I'm glad their customer service took care of you Just curious--did you go thru atlantic arms or the manufacturer themselves?

It isn't that the spring is too strong, and there's really nothing you could do about that anyway, but that the hammer is oriented slightly differently in semi-auto trigger groups than in the original design. It gets a bit more leverage to push up the carrier. On an awful lot of AK builds, especially new ones, if you cycle the bolt by hand, fairly slowly, you'll feel "tight" spots, and possibly even feel the carrier tilt up slightly at the very rear of its travel.

If you baby it, you can often get the bolt to hold open at the rear, just from that pressure. If you yank-and-let-fly, emulating actual live fire, it should cycle fine. And, when the action is being cycled by a fired round, it won't hang up at all.

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SAM1911 understands how the semi-auto AKM works quite well.... don't think that this is a bolt hold open though.... and go poking your fingers around in there... you'll not like the way it feels when the bolt carrier slips off of the hammer and slams shut on your wittle pinkies.

Problem solved. My rifle will be swapped for a new one and I won'r have to pay a penny.

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I have yet to buy anything from Atlantic... but I pay attention every time I hear them mentioned and it certainly appears that they are really doing their best to satisfy their customers. Good for them!

What kind did you get? I just got the $599 Lancaster version and have yet to shoot it.

nathan said:

Yeah , i would call the manufacturer , have them pay the shipping back and get you a new one. Period. U paid good money and it should work from the get go. The bad thing is , they have to send it to the FFL dealer again and u have to pay the second time for transfer fees.

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You ship to the manufacturer for repairs and they ship directly back to you. No FFL needed in this transaction.

Just went to the range and had the EXACT same thing happen!

Ingsoc75: What retailer did you buy yours from?

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I bought the $599 Lancaster version through Atlantic.