$3000 for a single firearm

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Bushmaster ACR

IWI Tavor

or

A pair of matching Cimarron Schofields with a couple of fancy leather holsters and cartridge belt.


The rest on reloading equipment and ammo.
 
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Why would use assume that a $3000 gun is A: expensive or B: a safe queen?
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A: Because to many of us, that is expensive.

B: See A. (In fact I would have it in the front of the safe, with it's own spotlight.)
 
Then you need to raise your sights (pun intended) a little higher... ;). I am not wealthy, but I shoot competitive shotgun - sporting clays. A base level target grade Browning, Beretta or similar O/U START at $3,000 and go up. Kreighoffs, Perazzis, Kolars and such start about 12,000 today and go up from there. Beretta SO series and similar start about $23,000 and go up from there - all of them were meant to be used and used a lot - no safe queens, just extremely well-built competitive level guns. Whether you shoot competitive clays or pistols or rifles, the ammo, targets, fees, etc. to compete will far outweigh the cost of the gun by many times, so you might as well buy a quality gun that will last forever instead of going cheap and replacing it or repairing it all the time
You won't see a Mossberg or Remington at the Olympics
 
I think the point he was trying to make was that most of us are not "well-to-do" enough to regularly AFFORD such a gun, and this is a special purchase. If you can afford weekly clay busting, membership to the private club, and a $3k-$23k shotgun, you are capable of devoting more free money to your hobby than most of us. Same with the fella that has $100K worth of custom 1911's. Unlike him, I'll probably wear out my few high dollar guns. I have a few expensive guns, and I expect to put enough wear on them that the collectors hate me. I gave up a number of other guns just to have a few REALLY nice ones. I sand hardwood floors for a living now, and work pretty hard for my money. Shooting is the only drain on my disposable income, so I play hard, too. The INTENT of a gun, be it plain or fancy, modest or intricate, common or rare, was to be SHOT. I am glad there are others out there that shoot their high quality, engraved, rare, or otherwise expensive guns. That is what they are FOR.
 
Freedom Arms Model 97 in .357 w the 7-1/2" barrel and the special titanium see through rings scope mount. Then put a Bushnell 3200 pistol scope on it. That is one fine tree stand or wood deer gun w Buffalo Bore ammo.
 
Then you need to raise your sights (pun intended) a little higher... . I am not wealthy, but I shoot competitive shotgun - sporting clays. A base level target grade Browning, Beretta or similar O/U START at $3,000 and go up. Kreighoffs, Perazzis, Kolars and such start about 12,000 today and go up from there. Beretta SO series and similar start about $23,000 and go up from there - all of them were meant to be used and used a lot - no safe queens, just extremely well-built competitive level guns. Whether you shoot competitive clays or pistols or rifles, the ammo, targets, fees, etc. to compete will far outweigh the cost of the gun by many times, so you might as well buy a quality gun that will last forever instead of going cheap and replacing it or repairing it all the time
You won't see a Mossberg or Remington at the Olympics
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It's likely that you won't see my old car winning any races either. I'm all for getting the best equipment that you can, but financial restraints, are one of the considerations for some of us.

As to safe queens, I don't own any. I'm lucky enough to own several vintage firearms and shoot them regularly. I bought them to enjoy, and I can only do that by shooting them.

But to get back on track. I would buy the oldest and coolest gun that $3000.00 would buy. I would avoid anything new and highly modified.
 
NRA_Dave said:
Freedom Arms Model 97 in .357 w the 7-1/2" barrel and the special titanium see through rings scope mount. Then put a Bushnell 3200 pistol scope on it. That is one fine tree stand or wood deer gun w Buffalo Bore ammo.
Click to expand...
Man, you sure are miserly with your posts! lolz
 
That's why I rat hole a 20 here and a 20 there- it took me two years of that to buy a discontinued S&W SxS for bird hunting that was on closeout for $1200. My Browning is 18 years old, and when I bought it back then for $1,000, it was a LOT as I had young kids and a wife - why I said, buy it once, cry once and never have to worry about it - the Browning is now north of 225,000 rounds with one trip to the smith for some minor maintenance - cost me $150 at 90,000 rounds.

My membership costs me $65/year and that gets me discounts on targets - no snooty club.

Too many here think like minimum wage workers and think everyone is only making that and if you spend a nickel more, you are some sort of gun snob - nothing could be further from the truth

Read, understand and appreciate my sig line - when it comes to costs, buying the best up front pays for itself on the back end - whether you are trading up or getting out, you'll recoup your initial investment and in the meantime will have had the joy of shooting something better than a cheap POS

225,000 targets - at an average cost of $.25/each for ammo and target is $56,250 over 18 years - the gun was $1,000

I think I got my money's worth as it is still going strong
 
I would have to agree with Robert, the LaRue OBR. I love long range rifles though, so I would get a Savage or Remington .338LM as a second choice. An Armalite AR-50 would be another good choice. I own a Bushmaster BA50 and love it, an AR-50 would be my next choice for afordable 50bmg.
 
Lessee, now...
I don't hunt so I don't need a Bambi Slayer, Bear Bumper, or Pachyderm Exterminator.
I am no longer active in trap or cowboy, so I don't need anything better than my old gear for the chance I might resume.

I might get back into F class, in which case $3000 would be a good start on a new rig.

I shoot BPCR and I could easily spend that or more on a Wyoming Armory Highwall, if I wanted something nicer than my Browning.

I shoot a good deal of IDPA. I have a new ESP speced out that would be $3003 from Wilson, but their long delivery times are more of a hindrance than the price. I could get it from a local shop but there are some unanswered questions.
 
i don't know what kind of shooting you do, but i'd recommend getting set up to do a lot of reloading. when you buy components in BULK you can get much better deals on them. $3000 would let you buy a respectable amount of powder and primers and projos.

you might also consider something like night vision, steel targets, a good scope like a USO 1-8x or S&B short dot, some classes, etc.
 
I too highly recommend a Shiloh Sharps. Fun at the range and, depending on the caliber, it can bring down just about any game animal on the planet. Current wait time is 14-16 months but Shiloh often has a few on the rack ready to go - these are usually orders in which customers didn't keep their contact info up to date or they changed their mind. There is a $250 deposit when an order is placed. You pay the balance when they begin to make it or you can pay up front but sometimes the price goes up by the time it is actually made.

I bought a 45-70 off the rack and have been shooting factory Remington smokeless ammo, but I just bought a bunch of reloading and casting stuff so I can load my own black powder cartridges with my own cast bullets. Many Shiloh owners think the accuracy potential in these rifles can only be achieved in this manner. The 45-70 is a great beginner caliber for those unfamiliar with a black powder cartridge rifle (BPCR). It will also take down any North American game animal and is a great caliber to use at silhouette matches. There is an active discussion forum on Shiloh's website where you can learn more.

If you want a tang sight plan on an extra $350-500, globe front sights run about $150.

http://www.shilohrifle.com/

Mine is a Sporter #1

sporter3.jpg

sporter4.jpg

hoke2.jpg
 
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