How hot without a chrony?

If you are trying to 1) go as slow as possible and be safe; 2) go as fast as possible and be safe; or 3) trying to make PF for competition then you need a chrono.

I reloaded for several years without one, had one for a few years - which I did end up shooting by accident, and now don't use one.

I used one when I was competitively shooting and also found it very helpful when coming up with slow/low power loads that wouldn't get stuck in the barrel.

Also keep in mind that unless you use the exact same components as what is listed in a reloading manual your results will differ from the published information.

Personally, if I had the $$$ for a LabRadar chrono I would get it as I do enjoy reloading/stats/etc. as part of the hobby.

mcb said:

That said for the most part I use my Chrono to make sure my pistol ammunition is making Power Factor.

Click to expand...

Me, too. I haven't done serious rifle loading since The Incident. But a good deal of pistol.

Back before even bullet companies had pressure guns, Speer said they set the maximum by increasing the load until they saw ONE "pressure sign" and then backed off by 6%. Loaders often seeing multiple "pressure signs" and reducing half a grain are still overloading, but that is a common thing.

I shot my CE Pro Chrono Digital (I no longer think I can run off a few from a crouched position behind the unit.)
Anybody want the wired remote control for that model?

I got my CED out and cleaned it up, it turned out to have survived The incident. Lots of bells and whistles and only the detectors near the line of fire, but slow to set up. If I were doing as much chronographing as I used to, I would get a Labradar. I tried to work up a little project at the new range, but they were not interested.

LoonWulf said:

Just wanted to mention that cratering, and even blown primers can be a mechanical issue with excessive gap between the firing pin and channel.
I have that issue with one of my 700s, it will crater with starting loads, and blow primers before hitting any other pressure signs. Switching to magnum primers fixes the issue to a degree, but it still craters pretty bad.

Click to expand...

All the small primered rifle cartridges that I reload now get a magnum primer. I'm using my standard small rifle primer stash in pistol cartridges.

I'd rather have accuracy than velocity. Ideally, you have both.

One thing about chronographs is that you have no way to zero/calibrate them for accuracy. I never trust their absolute readings much. What it does show you is the incremental change in velocity.

In terms of Benchmark and .223 Rem, I've found great results for:
- 50 Gr Vmax @ 25.5 Gr Benchmark
- 55 Gr Vmax @ 25.0 Gr Benchmark

In fact, those are my go-to varmint loads for .223 Rem.

someguy2800 said:

The chronograph means very little to me except for checking standard deviations. The brass and primers tell me what I need to know about what is safe and what isn't.

Click to expand...

I very much agree with this.

Also keep in mind that unless you use the exact same components as what is listed in a reloading manual your results will differ from the published information.

Click to expand...

It is a rare occasion (not sure it’s even ever happened) when using the same exact components and load data do my results match the book. Too many variables. I can’t even get the same velocity’s out of 5 rounds made one after another with the same stuff fired out of the same rifle. It would be lottery odds to match the book number.

I picked up an illuminated 10X magnifier at the local Walgreens which I keep in my range bag, it's real handy for spotting the start of ejector swipes which might otherwise go unnoticed on rifle brass. There's usually some early warning signs before heavy bolt lift.

I noticed that no one has mentioned feel or even sound as one of many variables to gives clues for overloads. If my handload has more recoil than, say, a hot Buffalo Bore factory load with the same bullet weight, then I would be suspicious that I could be too far in the red zone. I wouldn’t use feel as the only indicator of high pressure, but it’s something I pay attention to.

I wouldn’t use feel as the only indicator of high pressure,

Click to expand...

Me either, my N310 minor loads are the softest feeling 9mm loads that make PF I have been able to make but they are quite high pressure.

Without a chronograph (and even with) I would be very hesitant to load anything hotter than the published max load in a couple of different loading books. I'd simply look for an accuracy node below max. And shooting in the summer in Texas, I look for something well below published max, as temps above 85 are likely to increase pressure.

I have a couple of chronographs, including a Magnetospeed, and have just started playing with QuickLOAD, primarily because there aren't any/many published loads for .243 AI and .260 AI. A chronograph really helps me compare observed velocities against those predicted by QuickLOAD, which seems pretty good at calculating (not empirically testing) pressure. I'm looking to get a bit of improvement over the .243 Win and .260 Rem, but am NOT trying to build the hottest possible safe loads. Accuracy is king.