Labradar recoil trigger DIY

peels

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May 22, 2011
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I know there are labradar recoil triggers available for purchase that range in price from $35 to $50...but what's the fun in that? :D

So I want to make one myself. Primary reason for wanting one is so I don't have to reposition the radar for different rifles.

So far, I have figured out that for the stereo plug used for the external trigger 3 sections are voltage supply at the tip, presumed control signal middle ring, and then ground.

I am guessing a voltage proportional to the supply voltage to the signal connection is what is used for external triggering.

Have anyone made one that have pointers that they are willing to share?
 
Just an update on this little project.

I have confirmed that applying 3v to the signal line will trigger the radar to track. I did this by shorting the voltage supply to the signal.

So knowing that, I think a simple shake switch should suffice as the recoil sensor.

I have ordered the medium sensitivity and retarded sensitivity shake switch. And just in case....I also ordered some IC voltage comparators the would send a more controlled voltage and ground signal to the radar.

Next update will hopefully be in a couple of weeks once I get all the components and had a chance to assemble them.
 
I'll be interested to hear your progress/progression... I live in Canada and no one from the US will sell an inertia trigger for LabRadar outside the US.... Making one is my only option... Keep us posted... Thanks..
 
Update on the recoil trigger DIY...

By the way, this is for information only. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK. Neither the writer, The High Road, nor the staff of THR assume any liability for any damage or injury resulting from use of this information.

All the components arrived and I started to toy around with the different sensitivity shake switches. By putting together a simple trigger with the medium sensitivity and retarded sensitivity....I was unable to trigger when operating a bolt handle with an empty chamber, even when slamming it back and forth. Letting the AR15 bolt slam home with an empty chamber always trigger with the medium sensitivity switch. With that, I decided to order the sensitive shake switches also. That switch should be here sometime next week.

With my labradar, I found that a voltage signal of greater than 0.65v is needed to trigger the unit reliably when the trigger level is set to 1. A voltage of 2.6v is needed to trigger at level 5.

For some reason, the voltage comparaters that I used don't want to drive the output signal properly and output the desired voltage....so I decided to go simple and just use a 1M potentiometer as a voltage divider. The shake switch is wired as the input switch to the pot. I set the pot output at 1.5v with a 3.3v supply and set the trigger level of the labradar at 1 and keep it there.

The plan is to have a sensitive and a medium sensitivity trigger made up for a range trip next week. I will prob try it on a 6.5 cm bolt rifle and AR15 with a CMMG 22LR conversion kit
 
Finally had a chance to test the recoil trigger this past weekend and it worked perfectly! The only shots where I did not record speed was when I forgot to switch from rifle to pistol speed range. Not having to reposition and re-aim the radar for different firearms was a dream! I 3D printed a flexible pic rail adapter that I can quickly move from one firearm to the next. This setup worked nicely!

Medium sensitivity and sensitive sensitivity shake switches worked for 223 (AR15), 6.5CM (savage action bolt), and 9mm (AR9 pistol). I forgot to pack my 22LR conversion kit...so no 22LR data yet. I expect the 22LR to work with the sensitive shake switch. I may also try it with a couple of air rifles to see if it is sensitive enough to trigger...
 
Joining this thread late.

Could provide links to the switches?

Picture?

I assume based on the use of a 1meg pot that the current required to trigger is negligible.

The fancier way to do this would be have the shake switch fire a monstable flipflop with a ~1 sec pulse. That would give a very reliable signal, but a lot more work than it's worth. A parallel rc across the input might accomplished as much. Then again the output of the switch may be very clean as to not require any smoothing. And the LR itself may take care of rough looking signals internally. Love to see the waveform of the signal from the switch.

I love tinkering with simple circuits. I don't need this but may build it anyway just for the fun of it.
 
Here is the video with some scope output of the shake switch that swayed me to do a direct switch control...the switch will make multiple contacts, but it settles pretty quickly. Pretty sure there are internal voltage comparaters inside the labradar that looks at the voltage of the signal. And it looks like it does not matter if the switch tries to trigger mutiple times quickly...the labradar won't re-trigger until the amber light comes back on after the trigger goes active. That takes about 2 seconds. The signal plotting start around 8:20.



These are the switches that I got. The link is for the medium sensitivity switch.
SW18010P = Sensitive sensitivity
SW18020P = Medium sensitivity
SW18030P = Retarded sensitivity

https://www.amazon.com/Gikfun-SW-18...0HZWJR90VBD&psc=1&refRID=WSYJVNAX40HZWJR90VBD

Here are some pictures. It's as simple as it gets.

Internals_1.JPG
Mounted_1.JPG
Size_1.JPG
 
Very cool. Much cleaner waveform than expected. I need to get a scope. A monostable flipflop would be ideal for a clean single pulse, but I'm going to try it with just an r/c across it to smooth it out some. Got to finish my third generation primer counter this week, the this will be my next project.

Thanks so much for sharing.
 
Cool! Let me know how the rc circuit turns out. I agree that if the signal can be held high once it turns high for about half a second, and then release, that would eliminate the noise...but I don't know if functionally it would be any different than just using the switch signal directly.
 
Now that the primer counter is put to bed for a while:

I got the "medium" detectors. Put one on a breadboard. (lower right hand corner) I was surprise that it works in all 3 axis. A plus for sure. Having played with it for a while, my thoughts are:

1) - I'd guess the LabRadar people put in their circuit the ability to smooth out any spikes or rough portions of the signal transition (from off to on).
2) - Rather than worry about spikes/noise I wonder about the length of the pulse. Is it long enough to provide a reliable signal every time?

Many ways to handle that with active circuits, but again maybe just a little RC to insure reliable functioning.
I don't have a scope though I've added one to my Amazon wish list.

[So cool these days that everything is palm size, USB interfaced. My TV went from a 20# wall mounted 20" monstrosity to a thumb sized, USB device that appears as a window on my 27" monitor. I can have from a 5" to a 27" picture any time I want.]

Next best thing is to record a video of it. (I mean duh, I retired as a video engineer.) Yes, I'm only getting 1/30 of a second resolution but better than nothing. Well it turns out 1/30sec isn't enough resolution. The pulse is only one frame long at most.

Next step will be to break out the LabRadar and do some measurements. What is the trigger voltage, possible the minimum pulse width and the current draw of the trigger. Then I'll pick values for a simple RC circuit. What I may find is this is all for naught and not needed. Just connect the sensor directly to the LabRadar and be done with it. More later, but this darn shooting stuff is keeping me busy right now.

20200919_121400.jpg


 
Nice video! I could see multiple flashes of the LED in some of the events. Keep us posted. It would be nice to compare notes on the voltage required for the different trigger levels.

How are you intending to test the pulse duration for the trigger?
 
To specifically answer with a waveform generator, hopefully one that will allow single pulse at a time. I'm looking at waveform generators and scopes right now. I've been out of the home experimenting hobby for a while and debating how much to spend on these. The old name brands are so expensive and I'm hesitant about the plethora of Chinese brands. Also gonna check with my old work, I'm pretty sure they'd loan me a scope for a couple of weeks. This may take a while. Especially (notice how I'm bringing this back around to shooting?) with all the matches that got pushed from spring/summer to fall.
 
BACKGROUND DISCUSSION - SKIP IF YOU DON'T LIKE WAR STORIES

Electronics has always been an occupation and an avocation. Work consumed my time the last 20 years and I did away with most of my home parts and meters. One of my ideas for old age is to start playing with things electronics again, specifically the microprocessor boards like Rasberry Pi. LabRadar has given me a starting point to buy some test gear. If you're at all interested. My job during the summers in HS was to maintain the head-end and to teach installations (drops) for an early analog cable TV system. USAF I was Avionics tech (Autopilot) on the C5A test team. Earn my 1st Class FCC Commercial license (when they had those things) and a mail order degree in TV Production while I was in the AF. Later added the Extra Class Amateur license (W4ADS). Retired 2 years ago as a Video Engineer and Lighting Director for a large venue in town.


Just to remind folks. LabRadar can activate it's "recording" either by hearing the sound of the shot through it's internal microphone or by watching for some moving object in its "field of view". The later, called Doppler Trigger, isn't as reliable and you may miss the closer in velocities. The microphone can trigger falsely if there are other shooters nearby. LabRadar has an 8 step sensitivity setting than can help ignore extraneous sounds. There is an external jack which can be used as a trigger in place of the internal mic. So that's what is being tested, the external trigger input. Exactly what does that external trigger look for and what parameter are required to make it work reliably?

The first step is to see what LabRadar needs to work, measured in two parts; Amplitude (voltage) and Duration (pulse). I got my variable power supply this week so I've done the amplitude tests. My function generator isn't due in for another month so that test will have to wait.

Here are my findings of minimum trigger voltage for each trigger level. I verified the voltage setting with an independent DVM. I only have one Amp meter but the readings are basically insignificant current draw.

Trigger Level, Voltage(V), Current Draw (in microAmps)
1, 0.08, 3
2, 0.10, 3
3, 0.14, 5
4, 0.20, 8
5, 0.50, 17
6, 1.50, 50
7, 2.00, 66
8, 2.49, 83

Current draw, btw, is a function of the actual voltage used to trigger, not the level setting. The current draws are insignificant. Any external circuit will need to make sure it drains itself before the next shot. Not a problem with a straight switch but could be with an external mic circuit.

Okay, now we know what LabRadar is looking for, amplitude wise. Next step, when my function generator gets here, is so see how sensitive it is to pulse width.

The ultimate aim is to build a reliable circuit for detecting recoil as a trigger which would be useful for silenced devices and quiet airguns. I might also look at an external microphone, specifically one that is more of impulse pressure switch than a true microphone.
 
Thanks for sharing! The actual trigger lever is quite a bit lower than I thought (at least with your labradar). I had to set mine at 1.5v for reliable trigger.

Can't wait for the pulse width results!
 
What would a thread be without pictures. SIMPLE, yes, but it makes it funner. The breadboard is just used to hold a little switch for the test. I point the LabRadar at a fan during the test. Gives it something to "detect" and resets it for the next activation. My desktop fan gives me readings between 550 and 800 fps. Lousy SD. ;)

Yes, results will vary with unit because in general electronic components, have around a 10% tolerance. You can pay more for higher tolerance, but usually it's not needed for something at this level.

I'd think 1.5V at level 5 would be an excellent choice.



20201003_100015.jpg
 
I had to set it at 1.5v for level 1 :uhoh:

I know it detects at a lower voltage at level 1, but I felt that it missed some lighter taps of the switch. So I went for a more reliable setting...
 
More adventures with electronics, LabRadar and S-H-O-O-T-I-N-G

Boring discussion of a function generator.
I didn't want to spend $125+ on a lab function generator, so I bought a $25 Chinese "module". It arrive much sooner than I expected. It goes under the brand name of Caredy. It was shipped in a small plastic envelope. No padding and NO instructions. As expected it does the bare minimum which is square wave in either a continues stream or in a specified number of pulses. The later is what I really wanted for this project and that was the ability to produce a single pulse of varying width. It has limitations, only up to 150Khz continuous and only down to 1/1000sec pulse width in single pulse mode. However it does what's needed for this project. they say 1% accuracty, but my voltage readings put it a little be further off than that. e.g., the 3V setting only produced 2.78V. But that can be accounted for. Don't have my scope yet, so can't measure the accuracy of the pulse timings. At higher levels, >2V, current draw does cause a slight change in voltage output.

What I was measuring today is the minimal pulse width needed to trigger the LabRadar. IOW, if a shake switch only produces a contact for 0.1 seconds will that be enough to trigger the LR?

I was limited in that my pulse widths can only go down to 0.001 seconds and my voltage only down to 0.87V, but that seem to be right at the limit of the LabRadar. It's enough to make a good guess as to what would be a reliable pulse. Here are the settings.

Levels 1-5 worked reliably down to 0.87V and 1 milisec. Couldn't go any lower. Probably close to initial tests above.
Level 6 worked down to 1.6V and 2ms
Level 7 worked down to 2.1V and 2ms
Level 8 worked down to 2.8V and 5ms

Longer times at lower voltages produced only slightly different results and neither did higher voltages cause shorter times.

So my conclusion to be sure of an external switch working I'd use the full 3V provided by the LR external jack, select Level 5 and make sure the switch produces at least a 10ms dwell time. I know this isn't an eotwawki thing. If you miss a reading or two not a big disaster.

Next step, when the oscilloscope arrives is to measure the dwell time of the shake switch. Probably on an airsoft gun, a springer air gun, a live firearm or two. It might also be interesting to be thinking about an external microphone down the road.


20201011_081725.jpg

20201011_081706.jpg
 
Interesting! So it appears they want higher voltage and longer duration before triggering at the higher settings.

I think microphone wise, they are using a piezoelectric microphone to create the voltage response, but I think you have to clamp the voltage such that it won't exceed the 3v supply, or you risk damaging the labradar circuitry as piezo can spike to pretty high voltage.
 
Got my scope, an Owan USB 2 channel. It worked with my 7 year old laptop running Vista. Amazing. Easy to use. First order was to check out my function generator to see what type of wave forms it was actually producing. Fairly square. So good for it.

20201021_144512.jpg


Psst: I know my reflection is in the pictures of the scope, but I’m not so anal to go back and recreate them without the reflection. You’ll just have to suffer with it.

Now to hook the scope to the Shake switch and see what the wave forms look like. Pretty rough. Done with an air soft gun.

20201021_140247.jpg

I added a 10uF capacitor from the trigger to ground and it did wonders in shaping the waveform.

20201021_143654.jpg

Or with a short sweep time
20201021_143213.jpg

I made two plug-in units. One with just the Shake switch and one with the switch and capacitor. Encapsulated them with several layers of shrink wrap.

Modules.jpg

Needed a good way to mount them onto my guns so I took an old scope ring, cut it up and clamped the assemble to it. Just used a small cable clamp to hold it to the mount. I tried it both axially and perpendicular and there doesn’t seem to be any difference in the waveform. You don't really need to cut the scope ring. I could have just clamped it where the top strap would be.

20201021_140557.jpg
20201021_140442.jpg



I also built a break-out block using to 1/8” jacks so I could attach the scope in mid stream without the need for the breakout board. This of course isn’t needed for actual operation.

20201021_140716.jpg


All told, the Lab Radar doesn’t seem to care about the wave form. At least not with the airsoft gun..The medium Shake switch might give false readings when you cock the gun, or operate the action. Though most of the time it didn’t unless I got rough with the gun. I’m set on level 3 sensitivity, which is what I normally use anyway. I don’t think it much matters, as once the Shake switch makes contact it’s providing a sufficiently long enough trigger for the LR to respond. I used the full 3Vdc from the LabRadar as I saw no reason to step it down.

NEXT and LAST STEP (whew) Since I have both modules, with and without capacitor, the next step is range time. I thought I’d do tests with a 10/22 rifle, a 22/45 pistol and a 9mm pistol.
 
The scope trace of the switch only...why is the peak voltage dropping over time?
 
The scope trace of the switch only...why is the peak voltage dropping over time?

Could be the input circuitry of the LR itself. I imagine they have some input filter (r/c) circuitry.
Of course I'm doing this test with an air soft gun, which is a "springer" and probably represents the worst recoil "action". Not the sharpest recoil but a complicated, back and forth recoil.

I'm in the process of putting everything up, but I might re-test this using both the LR and doing it with just a power supply, no "load".

I don't know if I feel like dragging the scope and laptop out to the range, but I might just for the fun of it. Try this with a real springer air rifle, as well as several firearms.


This has been fun and given me an excuse to buy a scope (albeit a cheap one) for future experiments. Thank you Peels. I've also gotten to know more about my LR's trigger, and while it's never been a problem, that I was aware of, I may be using the external trigger more, especially at indoor ranges.
 
This is a Shake Switch Only mounted on the air soft gun with an external supply. No LR. I think we're seeing a combination of very narrow signal spikes and contact noise. <no reflection this time>

20201022_144916.jpg

No matter how you shake it <pun> the Shake Switch has a very messy output. I like what adding a capacitor does to the signal. HOWEVER, I'm not seeing that the LR cares. Probably have their own integration circuitry on-board. Range testing in a week or two.
 
Guys,

A SW-18010P (most sensitive) soldered onto a female 3.5mm socket. No need for capacitors and resistors as the radar filters the multiple triggers in its 2-second timed pause. Use the tip and middle contacts and ignore the shield/ground.
Socket.jpg socket test.jpg

Do all the loading/cocking before you arm the radar although if it triggers prematurely you can ignore it. If it gives a false reading it is usually obviously different to the string and you delete it; either at the time or later.
 
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