Lockrings don’t fit on top of Dillon Toolhead-Whidden 300 Blackout Toolhead Fix?

I've replaced all my lock rings with the dillon lock rings, just so I can use the same wrench on everything, and plus they are slightly thinner. 300BLK isn't the only one that can sometimes be too short, and in those cases there is enough room to put the lock ring underneath the toolhead, at least with the dillon rings. But I like your idea, seems a bit more elegant.

Alex G said:

XL-750 ... lockrings on the bottom ... can’t remove the die without losing your settings ... my OCD doesn’t like it

... being said, I discovered that Whidden Gunworks makes a fully shortened toolhead ... This seems to be the perfect solution I’ve been looking for. Is there anything that would prevent me from using this as a main toolhead for pistol?

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If your OCD doesn't like losing your settings, even using shortened toolhead will require you to lose the setting when you change dies.

So, how about just getting another toolhead and swapping out toolheads with dies installed? This way, you won't lose die settings and your OCD won't be disturbed.

EricBu said:

I've replaced all my lock rings with the dillon lock rings, just so I can use the same wrench on everything, and plus they are slightly thinner. 300BLK isn't the only one that can sometimes be too short, and in those cases there is enough room to put the lock ring underneath the toolhead, at least with the dillon rings. But I like your idea, seems a bit more elegant.

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^^^ Plus one for this suggestion. Makes life much simpler.

Then simply put the lock rings on the underside and move on....

Alex G said:

Why so?

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I like using multiple tool heads for my 550C.

It's your press ... You can do whatever you want to do. But you did ask for our opinions and we are giving them to you.

9mmepiphany said:

Most folks I know who load on a Dillon install/set their dies and never remove them...it is easier to just get additional tool heads

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I like the Whidden tool head idea - thinner metal may lead to a bit more flex but maybe not enough to matter.
I can understand having a lock ring with a set screw fixes that dimension in a certain press, but moving it to another press unless those dimensions are exactly the same, you’re still going to do some adjustment. I swapped my 9mm dies held in LNL bushings from my press to my son’s LNL and had to make some adjustments anyway.

Alex G said:

Depending on the caliber, I may pull a sizing die out of the toolhead and run it in a single stage for some custom loading, or things of that nature. A lockring under the toolhead (especially for a seat/crimp die) means the die has to be completely reset every time it’s reinstalled.

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I recently developed loads for several different bullets in 9mm. Since the RL1100 was the only press on the bench, I turned it into a semi-single stage and re-adjusted the seater for every different 9mm bullet. I constructed a dummy round for each different bullet, labeled and saved them, and use them for re-adjusting the seater when I need to. Having a reference round for sizing or seating will help you get really close if you have to reset dies. It may not be exact, but may be enough for what you need. Good luck.

Multiple toolheads makes things quick and easy for Dillon changes, even if loading a couple of test rounds, for different calibers. Easy to check settings with dummy cases, but always check things by measuring the first few loaded.

9mmepiphany said:

I can switch a die from my LNL to my single stage with a quarter turn.

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How close are the settings to one another due to manufacturing tolerances between the two presses, shell holder and shell plate?

Mine were different just between two LNL AP’s, one pre and one post EZ Ject.

Alex G said:

…the one thing that drives me crazy is not having enough space for die lockrings on top of the toolhead. I use primarily Redding dies, which aren’t as short as Lee dies, but still don’t leave enough room for the lockrings to fully engage.

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I don’t understand the “fully engage” part, do you have a photo? In any case they are not withstanding any force as far as needing all threads engaged like you would want if the fastener was under a tension load, all they need to do is not let the die rotate and loose setting. If any nut will fit, a drop of red locktite between it and the die will lock a regular nut in place, so you don’t loose the setting.

I have one setup using the Lee short dies where I had to flip their fat lock nuts over, so the counter bore for the oring faces up. In effect making them thin like regular lock nuts and allowing the dies to go low enough in the toolhead. I have also drilled and tapped Lee jam nuts so the setting is locked in, like the universal decapper bottom left set for a co-ax. They are soft aluminum so it’s an easy job. If you are an off the shelf guy, just get some RCBS nuts with the brass setscrew and call it a day. $12/5.

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1458163904

Alex G said:

Typically a single stage (like my Redding Big Boss 2) doesn’t require the die to be threaded in as far as the Dillon, so a temporary lockring under the main one, or spacer shins are all I need to change them over easily.

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Alex G said:

Say I want to remove a die from the Dillon toolhead and run it in my single stage for some reason, then put it back in the Dillon. I’ve got to completely readjust on the Dillon if it’s a bottom mounted lockring, not so if it’s top mounted and set with a setscrew.

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As you have pointed out the settings between the two are not going to be the same so locking one in place is only half the battle, now you have to get it right for another without messing up the first one.

For precise die adjustment I found this easier than keeping up with a bunch of arbor shims.



I made it from some aluminum scraps I had but of your not a DIY guy you can buy a similar device for $17.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08ZS87FQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

At that point adjusting dies won’t be that big of a deal, as you will be able to precisely adjust them quickly.

Alex G said:

I have multiple toolheads-one for each caliber. The issue is the toolheads being too tall and the dies too short to put the lockring on the top. Say I want to remove a die from the Dillon toolhead and run it in my single stage for some reason, then put it back in the Dillon. I’ve got to completely readjust on the Dillon if it’s a bottom mounted lockring, not so if it’s top mounted and set with a setscrew.

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I understand where you are coming from. Everyone and every instance is different. I was fortunate that I purchased all dillon dies and don't have any locking rings on the underside of the toolheads. I am at the point that I very seldom have to change a toolhead settings, just the toolhead and caliber conversion.

I learned reloading with my fathers rbs single stage, but the time I spent laddering uploads on the dillon, just came natural I guess. When I was working up loads I would change toolheads and caliber conversions multiple times each evening. If you make changes often enough, it just becomes second nature and you even can get pretty accurate at resetting the powder drop, when laddering up a load. I never have had the desire to use a single stage press after doing so many differnt calibers on the dillon.