10/22 not reseting trigger

[wally]

I swapped in a 16" threaded barrel on my Ruger 10/22 and was impressed that the red dot only needed about 3 clicks up and two click right from the 50 yard zero with the original barrel.

Problem is its now a single shot rifle

Did it with all mags and even if I single load and remove the mag -- the bolt doesn't come back far enough to reset the trigger. A fresh round is always in the chamber and the empties eject briskly.

Doesn't seem reasonable to me that 2" shorter barrel could do this, but I can't see what else could be the cause, as if I manually cycle the bolt, ejecting the chambered round and striping off another, it always fired. I did an entire 25 round magazine this way getting 13 shots out of it and 12 loaded rounds on the ground

Solutions? lighter recoil spring? The new barrel groups as good as I can reposition the dot at 50 yards.

 

[hardluk1]

What ammo are you useing? During reasembly maybe something did not lined up right. Take the trigger group out again and look around.

 

[greyling22]

chamfer the back of the bolt. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251031

but I agree that just changing the barrel shouldn't cause this. You could always swap the barrels back and see if the problem goes away.

 

[WardenWolf]

If it doesn't do it with the original barrel after you swap back, I'd say clip a tiny bit off your recoil spring. That should fix it.

 

[JohnB]

You didn't dismantle the trigger group did you? Swapping the trigger return spring and the sear spring will cause that exact issue.

 

[wally]

You didn't dismantle the trigger group did you? Swapping the trigger return spring and the sear spring will cause that exact issue

Never took the trigger or bolt out. I just undid the two hex bolts, swapped barrels and replaced the bolts.

If it doesn't do it with the original barrel after you swap back, I'd say clip a tiny bit off your recoil spring. That should fix it.

I'd hate to do the swap the barrels again and back again. I'll see if Wolf sells a reduced power 10/22 recoil spring first.

chamfer the back of the bolt. http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=251031

That looks to be a bit radical to start with, messing up a recoil spring won't cost much if it doesn't do the trick. People do the opposite with 1911 firing pin stops for 10mm, EGW makes a square bottom stop that you radius to let the hammer spring help out the recoil spring so the brass stays in the same zip code, I put one in my Delta Elite, so I'm familiar with the idea here.

 

[WardenWolf]

Wally, the recoil spring on the 10/22 is permanently attached to the guide rod. You would need a gunsmith to replace the spring. It's the same as the Mark I / II / III recoil spring; it's not a user-serviceable part. You'd have to replace the whole assembly. Just do what I said and clip your spring on the forward end, by maybe half a coil. Worst case scenario you can replace the assembly; if you do, call Ruger directly and order from their parts department. It's cheaper.

 

[wally]

Take the trigger group out again and look around

Bingo!

As soon as I removed the stock I could see the trigger axis pin had come out one side apparently enough to add just enough friction to interfere with the reset. Seems to be working fine now, only a range trip will be the proof, In can feel the trigger reset if in I only cycle the bolt about 3/4 of the stroke, where before I had to slam the bolt stop to get it to reset.