1st squib ever. Now what????

[Ccctennis]

I was developing a load for my xdm 45 and had my 1st ever squib load. I got really lucky and now I'm just trying not to have a heart attack.

I reloaded 25 rounds of 45 with hp-38 powder. First 20 rounds were good. Round 21 went boom. I pull trigger and got a click. Pulled slide back and empty brass case ejected. I knew right then I have a problem. Stripped gun and saw bullet barely down the chamber. Lucky for me it didn't eject and chamber another round. Here is a picture of the bullet. I can't seem to get it out. What is the trick. Next step is investigation. Why did it happen. How to re trace my steps and figure out what went wrong.

 

[jmorris]

No real "trick", you just need to make sure every round you load had at least a minimum charge in it.

Many get buy their entire life by just using the old eyeball to look into the case and there are also a number of different powder check/lockout dies out there, if your loading on a progressive press.

 

[Mad Chemist]

^^^I eyeball every case on both my turret and progressive. I also have two adjustable lights on my bench that I use to keep my work area well lit.


You need to pound the bullet through with a cleaning rod, preferably brass so you don't damage the rifling.

 

[moxie]

Just insert a wood dowel or brass rod in the muzzle end and gently tap the bullet out.

Best way (I think) to avoid squibs is by using a small reloading block that holds 50 rounds and shining a very bright LED flashlight into each case, moving up and down each row slowly. Any differences in powder level will immediately become apparent. I use one of the milky white plastic trays that come with some factory ammo like Speer. You want a small tray with the rounds close to each other.

 

[GLOOB]

Sounds like you were using a powder measure, and it bridged.

Sometimes a powder throw will clog up in the drop tube, so only part of it gets into the case, causing a squib. But on a subsequent throw, it may dislodge. That case gets the "boom" charge.

If you're using a manual measure, work the lever slowly. If you work the lever too fast, this greatly increases the chances of a bridge. And examine your charged cases on a block, if possible.

If you're using a progressive or turret, be sure to examine the powder before placing the bullet. Get one of those gooseneck LED lights to shine right into the case, so you can see, clearly.

Next time you get a "boom," stop shooting that ammo and break out the kinetic puller.

To get the bullet out, I would use a 5/16" oak dowel and a fairly LIGHT weight hammer, like 10-12 oz, max, or a wood baton. The heavier the hammer, the more you will just indent the barrel into w/e is underneath it. Fast, light whacks are better. Obviously, take the barrel out, first, and set the breech end over a block of wood.

 

[BigBore45]

just for peace of mind i would pull down the other rounds that are loaded. that powder may have dumped in the next case.

 

[Ccctennis]

I was using my dillon 550. I will pull the remaining 4 rounds. I should have been more aware. I felt like all the other shots. I didn't get muzzle flash (obviously but it felt normal not lite. I need to try a punch. I couldn't get it out with my screwdriver and hand!

 

[GarrettJ]

Don't use a punch, and don't use a screw driver. In general, don't put steel stuff down your barrel. It's a great way to scratch up your rifling.

As noted, get a wooden dowel or a brass rod. Lowe's and Home Depot usually have brass rods up to 1/4" diameter. These work, but for .40 or .45, I'd prefer a 3/8" rod. Just cut it off at around 10" or so, stick it in from the muzzle end, and whack it with a mallet (again, you don't want it to pop the bullet out, and momentum carry through and smack the end of your muzzle with a steel hammer.

Often they just take a little light tapping. I've seen a couple where the owner had to really smack it a couple of times, though.

 

[Kp321]

A brass rod is the best. A screwdriver is a sure way to put a gouge in the bore. 3/8" works for 40 & 45, 5/16" for 357/9mm. Push it out the short direction, toward the chamber in your case. You could get lucky and get it out with a wooden dowel but there is always the possibility the dowel will split, brass will not.

 

[GLOOB]

deleted

 

[kitsapshooter]

brass rod is good advise. But KP is wrong about the size. A 3/8 rod is .375 inches in diameter. To use a single rod you need one that is no more the .352 inches in diameter.

 

[Stripesdude]

I loaded a bunch of 45 a few weeks back and my powder measure was sticking. A couple got no/low powder. There is a very distinctive feel to a squib, and the case doesn't eject. I keep a hammer and dowel in my range bag - easy to pound the bullet out.

 

[jea1957]

In over 35 years of shooting & reloading I've only had 1 squib and that was with a FACTORY REM UMC 9mm round! About 4 weeks ago, I was at the indoor range shooting the last 50 rounds of a 250 round Mega Pak. About 25 rounds in, I got a flash but no bang. I dropped the mag, racked the slide and the case came tumbling out. I locked open the slide and grabbed a cleaning rod from my range bag; whew, nothing stuck in the barrel! I was lucky, 1-that the bullet cleared the barrel and 2-that I noticed something wasn't right and stopped!

When reloading, I make sure I check EVERY case for a powder charge before seating a bullet. I've never owned a progressive press, my Lee Classic Turret does a fine job and I can check every operation at any time. When I used to batch process my rounds on my RCBS Reloader Special, I always checked the powder level of each round with a bright light. When in doubt, stop and fix what needs fixing!

Sorry my first post was so long, I'll get off the soap box now

 

[Potatohead]

Looks like you may have gotten a touch to excited about buying that Bullseye..


And about getting that bullet out-I do know that shooting it out should not be an option.



Glad you're ok.

 

[Ccctennis]

It was a light charge not a zero powder charge. I'm tinkering with my powder drop now to see if I can make sure this doesn't happen again. When using pistol powders in a big case like 45 I can see powder on every drop. Problem is lock out dies help with over charging not under charging.

 

[ReloaderFred]

A lock out die will work with undercharge/no charge conditions, if adjusted properly. I load about 24 pounds of Bullseye per year for matches, etc. It's a great powder, but you do have to watch to make sure there's enough of it in the case, or use a properly adjusted lock out die... I finally bought one when I had my first squib load in a large match after 50 years of reloading, and over 750,000 rounds loaded successfully. You can't get lax with reloading, and I found out my squib was caused by a sticking powder measure that I didn't notice wasn't cycling all the way.

Hope this helps.

Fred

 

[higgite]

brass rod is good advise. But KP is wrong about the size. A 3/8 rod is .375 inches in diameter. To use a single rod you need one that is no more the .352 inches in diameter.

I agree on the brass rod. I carry one in my range bag. For one rod fits all (.40S&W, .45ACP and 9mm Luger), it actually needs to be less than .346" in diameter, though. That's the SAAMI bore diameter for 9mm Luger. A 5/16" brass rod will do the trick for all 3 calibers. Or like KP said, 3/8" also works for 40 & 45.

 

[Slamfire]

How cold was it an were you using ball powder? I had squibs, hangfires, and a stuck bullet with a 357 Revolver in cold weather. The mainspring was too weak, because it was old, and given the combination of a weak hammer strike, hard to ignite ball powder, I had problems. New mainspring fixed all that.

Another issue would be high primers, that is primers not fully seated. High primers are the most common cause of misfires.

Mysteries And Misconceptions Of The All-Important Primer
http://www.shootingtimes.com/2011/01/04/ammunition_st_mamotaip_200909/
Page 5 of 9

The real story is that Boxer primers leave the factory with the anvil higher than it would be when seated in a cartridge case. Seating so anvil legs touch the bottom of the pocket lets the anvil tip penetrate into the pellet of mix. The nearly universal recommendation of having the primer cup bottom 0.003 to 0.005 inch below flush with the case head exists to set the proper amount of priming mix between the cup and the anvil tip.

For proper ignition the anvil has to be fully seated on a firm surface and the gap between the anvil and cup set by pushing the cup down. If the gap is too wide, the primer is less sensitive, to the point you get misfires, or, weak ignition.

 

[Ccctennis]

If I get a lockout die I would have to seat and taper crimp in one stage. Not a problem for 45 but might be an issue with my heavy 357 and 44 loads.

 

[jmorris]

Problem is lock out dies help with over charging not under charging.

Dillon's PC die checks for both over and under charges; however, they are for the 650 and 1050.

If you cannot see the powder charge with the equipment/load you are using you just need to change one or the other.

If you do not you are certain to duplicate this experience again down the road. Beating one out of your semiauto is nothing compaired to stuffing one in the barrel on your 357 or 44 mag followed by another.

 

[moxie]

It certainly wasn't a misfire. The bullet was lodged in the barrel.

 

[Gadawg88]

HP-38 meters very well so bridging doesn't sound likely. But pull the remaining rounds and weigh each charge. With the bullet lodged barely past the chamber, the round probably had no powder. The primer ignition alone would probably force the bullet that far.

 

[GLOOB]

First 20 rounds were good. Round 21 went boom. I pull trigger and got a click [from round 22].

This is the way I read it.

 

[gonoles_1980]

Powder by click sounds like you put a double charge in 21 and nothing in 22. Do you do a visual inspection of each case with a small flashlight before seating the bullets? Buy a brass rod to use for squibs. You need a process that you will continually refine. #1 rule is, bullets should always be checked for powder level at least visually before seating.

 

[Ccctennis]

Let me rephrase all rounds went boom. 21st round. Went boom as well. Round 22 never got chambered. 21 fired and got stuck in barrel. The click was not the firing pin as the slide never ejected case or reset the Stryker.