1st time shooting BP revolver - need range advice

[LightningLink]

Thanks to all the friendly advice, I've got all my materials on hand and I'm ready to give it a go. This is not so much a "technical loading of the firearm" request as much as general loading and discharging on the range. Mainly I don't want to do something stupid and look like an idiot for unsafe handling.

Outdoor range is a typical covered setup with seats to the rear, red firing line and shooting bench/tables up front. It's moderated with cease fires and all that. There are two lanes per table with wire mesh between every other lane. The first thing I plan to do when I get there is ask if they have any special instructions or restrictions for blackpowder shooters.

1) I'm assuming all loading should be done on the shooting bench?

2) I plan to load the flask ahead of time. At the range load from the flask into the powder measurer and then into the cylinder. Is there any problem bringing the powder can to refill the flask should I use it all? And would I also refill it at the shooting bench?

3) Do I charge and load one cylinder at a time? Or do I charge all cylinders and then load all cylinders? In other words, do all of the steps one cylinder at a time, or do one step on all of the cylinders? Obviously the caps go on last no matter what.

4) Do I need to be concerned about sparks from other shooters while I'm loading?

5) Do I swab out the bore and cylinders between each load? Just the bore? Wait until I'm all done?

Thanks for any answers you can give and any advice on top of that.
LL

 

[4v50 Gary]

1) Loading from the bench. I do, it's easier than on the run.

2) Regarding refilling the flask, I've done that at the bench (just be sure you're not around any flintlock types). Be careful not to lose those tiny screws though.

3) I charge one cylinder at a time and filler (cornmeal) and ball down. This keeps the powder from spilling out and all over the place. Grease may be applied after all the balls are swaged in.

4) Sparks? Beware the flintlock when you're reloading. Keep your back to a flinter.

5) Swab out the bore or cylinder? I don't & I'm too lazy. On a rifle, you may have to but on a revolver, no. I wait until I'm finished before I commence to clean it.

 

[TerryBob]

If you start with a full flask, I doubt seriously that you are going to run out unless you have a real small flask.

I like to start with a full cylinder just because it's fun to stand there and fire off 6 in a row. After that, I load one at a time. It's good to do that because if some calls for a cease fire, you only need to empty the one before everyone is allowed out to thier targets. Also, firing one at a time, you don't need the wads or grease because you dont have to worry about the thing chain firing on you.

Now this is important. Move you flask out of the way. I put mine in my shooter's box and close the lid. Revolvers do spray a few sparks out the side between the barrel and the cylinder. I have never seen this go bad before but the posibility is there to turn your flask into a bomb.

Have a great time with the hog leg,

TerryBob

 

[RobW]

At my range, the bench is about 15 yards away from the firing line. I load the complete cylinder with powder, a wonder wad (grease in our temperatures are something - talking about a mess!), and the ball. Capping is done on the firing line with the muzzle downrange.

As I don't want to break the world record in fast reloading, there are some 5 minutes between firing the last shot and reloading. Time enough to make sure no spark in the revolver can survive.

I don't unscrew the tiny screws on the flask (tiny is the wrong word, it should be called "triple-tiny"), I've got a funnel that fits in the hole when you unscrew the spout, holding open the spring tensioned shutter of the flask. Just take your time not to overfill, but even then, a drumroll with your fingers on the flask settles the matter.

 

[4v50 Gary]

Dang Rob. You've a funnel? You're a modern dewd. I tried rolled up paper and while it works, it's just comes apart. Gotta scrounge up a brass funnel to keep up with you.

BTW, I'm going backwards and make & scrimshaw my own horns now. Call me a skinflint.

 

[LightningLink]

Thanks for the replies.

I got the flask filled up and I think you're right, I won't be using all of that in one outing. I also have some Pyrodex pellets to try as well. I bought one of those powder can funnels and was able to fill the flask through it's tube screw hole. Those screwlets would disappear if I tried to remove them I'm sure.

I think I'll go with the "charge, wad, ball", "charge, wad, ball", "charge, wad ball", ... method once I get comfortable. That way I'm less likely to double charge or double wad a cylinder. For my first few shots I'll only load one cylinder until I get the hang of it.

As for reloading, I'll have a bunch of modern handguns to occupy my time while letting the BP revolver "cool down". I also have a second cylinder so I could always swap them out to let the just fired one cool down.

I think I'm all ready to go. Thanks again for the advice. I have a sneaking feeling I'm about to get into something that's going to be a lot of fun. In fact, I've already got a single-shot pistol kit lined up to order if I like this.

LL

 

[Gatofeo]

I use one of those small brass funnels that screws into the flask, to refill mine. It works well. I used to carry a 3-inch diameter plastic funnel in my shooting box for this task but found that storing the smaller brass funnel takes far less space in the box.
Use the Wonder Wads as-is, if you like, but they reduce fouling much better if they're soaked in a melted lubricant first. I use a home-brew mix of canning paraffin, beeswax and mutton tallow. If you search this section under my name, you'll find complete instructions.
Seat the greased, felt wad on the powder as a separate operation. There are several good reasons for doing so:
1. If you forget to add powder, it's much easier to remove a felt wad from the chamber than it is a tight-fitting ball.
2. It makes seating the ball much easier.
3. You get a better feel for how much pressure you're applying to the wad.
4. You tend to get the wad seated deeper in the chamber because you're not fighting the resistance of the ball being seated, as well.
5. If you get interrupted in the loading process, the wads will keep the powder in place as you lie the revolver down, muzzle downrange.

Buy a revolver loading stand right away. This holds the revolver upright as you charge the chambers and ram wads and balls in place. It makes a safe place to hold your revolver should you get interrupted because the muzzle will be straight up. It's also very good because it will give you a much better feel for how much force you're applying to a wad or ball to seat it.

Buy a large fishing box to store your powder, caps, balls, lubricant, wads, spare nipples, etc. Don't worry about buying too large of a box, you'll find items to fill it over time. And if you switch to a different caliber, you'll need balls and wads to accommodate these too. Keep everything in this box and you won't find yourself at the range minus balls, caps, powder or other basics.

If you use a .44-caliber revolver, use .454 or .457-inch balls. Many of the books recommend a .451 inch ball but I've never found this as accurate. Why is this so? The larger ball, when swaged into the chamber, creates a wider bearing surface which the rifling grips. I believe this wider bearing surface promotes accuracy.
For .36-caliber revolvers, use a .380-inch ball. Warren Muzzleloading of Arkansas sells .380 lead balls, without a sprue, for about $7 per 100. I bought 1,000 balls from Warren a whlie back and personally recommend them. They are excellent. Go to www.warrenmuzzleloading.com to view their catalogue.

Use black powder, if possible. I've always found it more accurate than Pyrodex. I haven't used any of the black powder substitutes such as 777 or Clean Shot. I use Goex FFFG black powder for all my cap and ball revolvers.

In my Colt 1860 .44 reproduction, I use 35 grains of FFFG with a greased wad and .454 or .457-inch ball. In my Remington repro, I can get 40 grains of FFFG with wad and ball. In my Colt 2nd generation 1851 Navy .36 caliber, I use 22 or 24 grains of FFFG with wad and .380-inch ball.
I've found best accuracy with loads that are at or near maximum capacity.

 

[Gatofeo]

I hasten to add:
If you use a well-greased wad twixt ball and powder, there is no need to put lubricant over the ball. The greased wad will lubricate the ball and keep fouling soft.
I am not one of those who believes that multiple discharges are caused by flame entering the front of the cylinder. I believe it is caused by loose-fitting caps on the nipples, or caps too large for the nipples.
Caps should fit snugly on the nipple and "bottom out" with the priming charge resting firmly on the cone. If the cap cannot be seated fully down on the nipple, it's time to use a slightly larger cap (or buy nipples that are slightly smaller).
To my knowledge, the only cap sizes readily available are No. 10 and No. 11.
No. 10 caps are slightly smaller than No. 11. I saw a can of Remington No. 12 caps, newly made, about three years ago in a store but have not seen them since. No. 12 caps are made for original Walker and Dragoon revolvers, or the copies of those revolvers that were made up to or into the 1980s.
I've been told by the owners of reproduction Walkers and Dragoons that the nipples on those made since the mid 1980s take No. 11 caps.
So, buy a tin of No. 10 and No. 11 caps. See which fits best.
When you find which fits snugly, pinch the cap together slightly so it's oblong and clings to the nipple.
Often, when firing a cap and ball revolver, the recoil will knock off unfired caps that are not a pinched to fit. This is an open invitation for a multiple discharge, since that uncapped nipple is wide open to allowing the flame from a nearby fired cap to enter the chamber.
I've experienced multiple discharge three times, with a cheap, brass-framed .44 revolver I had back in the early 1970s. The third time, it damaged the rammer and warped the barrel assembly around the rammer.
In every case, I was using grease over the ball. I can't remember if the caps fit the nipples well or not. I junked it.
Since then, in a variety of other revolvers, I've fired thousands of lead ball loads, with a greased wad under the projectile, and never had a single multiple discharge.
I also pinch the caps into a slight elliptical shape so they cling to the nipple and stay on during recoil.