$3 upgrade to a Hornady L-N-L AP press ... sort of.

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MCMXI

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Last week I found a reloading press roller handle in a cabinet at work that no one wanted and figured that it might work for my L-N-L press. I've seen similar versions on Midway for around $50 so I took it home and was a bit disappointed to discover that the threads were different compared to the threads in the press. I measured the threads on the Hornady handle and they're 5/8'-18 so yesterday I stopped by a local hardware store and picked up a 5/8"-18 bolt for $3 with the plan to do some cutting and welding. I did the cutting last night using a DeWalt chop saw (steel blade) which took all of a minute. I still need to weld the bolt stud onto the shaft of the handle but it looks like it's going to work out well. I have a Miller 185 MIG welder but at times like this I wish I had a TIG welder to do a really nice job.

I haven't used the L-N-L for quite a while but now have a bunch of 9mm 147gr subsonic stuff to put together so this little upgrade should help. I tested the handle before I cut it and it does feel a lot more ergonomic over the range of motion required.

BEFORE
press_handle_01.jpg

AFTER
press_handle_02.jpg
 
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Roller handle from Inline is the best $50 Ive spent on my LnL. Your homemade handle will function and make your life easier :)
 
Nice idea and good solution.

If you lived closer, I'd be glad to weld it for you but I'm sure you could find someone with a tig welder a bit closer.
 
cfullgraf, that's very generous of you. I'll bevel the ends to be welded and use MIG since it's what I have. I'll clean off any excess weld material and paint.
 
Always sweet when a plan comes together.

Definitely. I finished everything this morning and now have a nice roller handle for my L-N-L press. I'll try it out tonight once the paint has had a chance to cure.

Ends beveled ready for welding

press_handle_03.jpg


Welded and cleaned up

press_handle_04.jpg

Over to the "paint booth" for a satin black finish :D

press_handle_06.jpg

press_handle_05.jpg

All done :)

press_handle_07.jpg
 
A friend took the original handle and bent it similiar to the Inline Fabrications one I have and works really well even with the ball on the end. He didn't want to pay the outrageous amount I did to get one sent to Canada.
I see you have a Redding powder measure how is that working compared to the Hornady?
 
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I see you have a Redding powder measure how is that working compared to the Hornady?

I never tried the Hornady powder measure on the L-N-L since I already had Redding 10X and BR-30 powder measures which are outstanding. I modified them to work with Hornady's case activated powder drop. I can't imagine that there's a significantly better powder dispensing system out there for a progressive press.

hornady_redding_br-30_1.jpg
 
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can't imagine that there's a significantly better powder dispensing system out there for a progressive press.
I like my home made one, but yes, that setup is great and you can put it in any station you want to. Mine is set.

When I load .458 Win Mag I use the Hornady linkage and the Hornady measure that came with the press. My BR-30 won't throw a big enough charge. I also use the 10-X for pistol. Great measures. I modded both (New operating handles *See pics*) to work on my home made setup.

Great job on the handle.
 

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Walkalong, thanks and nice job on your 10X/BR-30 conversions. I put some 9mm 147gr loads together this evening with the new handle installed in the press and it's a lot better. The loads not so much ... they won't drop into a Wilson gauge. I tried shooting them in my suppressed SIG MPX SBR and they sure are quiet but the fourth round locked up the bolt. Back to the drawing board. :confused:
 
Ouch, did the same with my then new to me EMP. Turned out the rounds were binding near the base where the cases were over expanded (I assume from pressure) and locked up the tight EMP chamber. I have to gauge all my sized 9MM brass now using a Wilson case gauge. If they fit it, they'll fit the EMP, which is at SAMMI minimum. Anything over .3915 at the case head juncture will cause issues. These same reloads fell in and out of other 9MM chambers. If the sized cases don't fall out of the Wilson gauge on their own, I scrap them. No issues with the ones that pass. I generally lose 10/15% of range brass to this. I generally lose none after that with my reloads. I still check them though.

As much as I am not a fan of the FCD for pistols, using it could very well "cure" the problem. I'd rather eliminate bad cases though. A roll sizer would fix things too, assuming it is the rear of the case, and that's my bet.
 
Turned out the rounds were binding near the base where the cases were over expanded (I assume from pressure) and locked up the tight EMP chamber. I have to gauge all my sized 9MM brass now using a Wilson case gauge. If they fit it, they'll fit the EMP, which is at SAMMI minimum. Anything over .3915 at the case head juncture will cause issues. These same reloads fell in and out of other 9MM chambers. If the sized cases don't fall out of the Wilson gauge on their own, I scrap them. No issues with the ones that pass. I generally lose 10/15% of range brass to this. I generally lose none after that with my reloads. I still check them though.

Exactly! There's no question that I didn't size the cases enough and that's why they wouldn't drop into the Wilson gauge. However, I figured out that the reason why I wasn't sizing the cases enough is that I can't get the Lee carbide sizing die down close enough to the LNL shellholder because there aren't enough threads on the top of the die for the locking nut. I use Hornady locking nuts on all of my dies. But the thing that bothers me most is that I can't figure out why I even have a Lee carbide 9mm sizing die and where the heck is the carbide sizing die from the RCBS 3-Die 9mm set that I have! :scrutiny: I guess I need to buy an RCBS carbide sizing die since it has more threads on the body of the die and I'll be able to run it all the way down to the shell holder ... or very close at least since it's carbide ... and get a lock nut on it.
 
I can't get the Lee carbide sizing die down close enough to the LNL shellholder because there aren't enough threads on the top of the die for the locking nut.
Get creative. Run a lock ring up off the threads and run the bushing up against it to lock it down. If this is too far down, use a spacer.
 

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Here is my Lee 9MM sizer with the lock ring run up off the threads up against the top of the die which stops it, and a spacer to get it where I want it (Barely missing the shell plate), all snugged up by locking the bushing against them.

Basic 7/8 ID spacers/shims.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Arbor-Shim-Assortment-I-D/dp/B002BXRDKY

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/f...id-x-1-38-inch-od-steel-arbor-shim-assortment

https://www.fastenal.com/products/d...-0eb9-3dd2-aa63-3c743b855037?isPunchout=false

index.php
 

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Walkalong, thanks for the photos and suggestions.... good idea.
 
Terrible and shameful confession time: I use Lee carbide dies for all my pistol loading.... and like them.

Like Walkalong, when I switched to an LNL press, I started using Hornady lock rings instead of the usual Lee rings, as they require less thread to lock reliably. No problems since

Here are my 9mm, .40, and .44 dies set up this way:
0819170957~01.jpg
 
Gtscotty, I use a number of Lee dies too but Lee should use longer threads on their dies similar to RCBS and Redding. I've never needed shims or spacers with other dies.

If I set up the Lee 9mm sizing die on my LNL like you've shown, sized cases won't drop in and out of the Wilson gauge. I'm able to size cases without a lock nut on the die but it's not ideal. I tried Walkalong's suggestion re allowing the nut to act as a stop with a shim and it works but it's too micky mouse for my liking. No insult intended to anyone, I just like things to be right or put another way, I don't like workarounds. Just my personal preference.

I'm going to try to find the RCBS sizing die from the set that I have and if I can't find it I'll buy a replacement.
 
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Gtscotty, I use a number of Lee dies too but Lee should use longer threads on their dies similar to RCBS and Redding. I've never needed shims or spacers with other dies.

If I set up the Lee 9mm sizing die on my LNL like you've shown, sized cases won't drop in and out of the Wilson gauge. I'm able to size cases without a lock nut on the die but it's not ideal. I tried Walkalong's suggestion re allowing the nut to act as a stop with a shim and it works but it's too micky mouse for my liking. No insult intended to anyone, I just like things to be right or put another way, I don't like workarounds. Just my personal preference.

I'm going to try to find the RCBS sizing die from the set that I have and if I can't find it I'll buy a replacement.

Hmm, don't know what to tell you. It would be nice if the threads were longer, but I haven't had a problem with any of mine over thousands of rounds.
 
Out of interest, do you use a Wilson gauge? Also, what firearm or firearms are you loading 9mm for?
 
You got me paranoid, so I went and checked my press. My die is screwed all the way down to the plate and a hair beyond per Lee instructions. Lock ring is on the die threads and locked... No problem. Just to make sure, you are using a #8 shell plate right?

No, I don't use a Wilson case gauge, I just plunk test in my barrels. I'm not sure what I would do if my rounds didn't fit in a case gauge as the dies are already down as far as they'll go without causing a lot of resistance at the end of the stroke... I really don't believe that the press is flexing much, or really any sizing 9mm.

With my dies set up like this, I've loaded for:

9mm: G19, S&W shield
.40: G23, S&W shield
.44: S&W 629

No stoppages like what you described.
 
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