.54 Lyman Deerstalker Question

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Howdy my fellow desperados! I have a .54 Lyman Deerstalker in percussion , I recently ordered and have a question about the factory nipple. I shoot cap n ball revolvers and this rifle will be my first bp rifle. I would like to know if the nipple on the Lyman could be replaced with a stainless slix shot that fits my piettas? Also if anyone here has this rifle hows she treated ya?Also a big Thanks for the wealth of information and brotherhood this community displays.
 
They both have the same basic 6 X .75 threads which may "fit" the threaded holes, but that doesn't mean that they both match in every aspect.

Why don't you wait until you receive the rifle and then compare the dimensions of each before trying to swap them?
And then let us know how they match up.
Rifle nipples can have different dimensions or features then pistol nipples, whether it's the height, the size of the wrench flats or number of threads.
Because the Slix Shots are only sold in 6 packs and the company specifies that they're revolver nipples, it seems that they don't want to sell them as replacements for rifle nipples.
And maybe there's a good reason for it.
 
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I like the Hot Shot nipples and have several on hand bought long ago for my Investarms rifles. They perform well and help ignition. But I could have sworn the ones I bought were sold by Uncle Mikes. But its been at least 20 years since I have bought any nipples. You will like that rifle too. I have 4 Investarms made rifles now. They have been good guns for me.
 
I also recently purchased a .54 Lyman deer stalker. The stock nipple works fine with #11 cci brand caps. The only thing you wanna do when shooting it is just wipe the nipple off here and there with a dry patch. This is so that the primer continues to seat as far as it has to every time without a failure to fire occuring.

Another thing. While the cci #11,s do fit on the nipple well enough, it's not a completely snug and tight fit like a number ten remington cap on say an 1851 with stock nipples or another revolver with slix shot nipples. I've found that if you lower the hammer onto the cap slowly before actually going to full cock and firing, the cci #11 works every time. You will want to do this slowly and carefully though, or perhaps push it on with a small wooden dowel.

Maybe remington #11 or rws caps will be more snug. I personally love the rifle and have no complaints about it. It shot like a foot high out of the box, but zeroing it brought it center of mass. I wasn't really trying for accuracy that day, but 50 to 100 yards was no problem. Swab the barrel every couple of shots and clean up will be easy. I fired 48 rounds out of it that day and plan to try for 100 this weekend.

I use .530 hornady round ball and tried .015 and .018 patches. Both work but .18 is tighter. Enjoy your deerstalker.

One last thing... The rifle will be covered inside and out with a factory preservative that will take a while you clean up. The barrel will take some effort to clean. I went through a ton of patches trying to get all the factory oil out of it. I used a solvent, ballistol and dry patches.
 
Where didja get the lyman .54 at? I know midway had a sale going on that i missed. Im going to get a hawken soon but im leaning towards getting an ampco metal material nipple...the Treso brand. I know that long distance shooters that burn through their nipples fast usually get expensive platinum lined nipples but as a substitute ive read that a lot of them like Treso nipples as they last a whole lot longer than the steel or stainless steel nipples. When i get a hawken im going to replace the stainless steel one with Ampco material Treso brand nipples as im sure i will be shooting it a lot. Plan on getting the .54 caliber too.
 
Thank you James i hope to thouroughly enjoy the new deerstalker. I have some CCI and some RWS in #11. I will let you know how the RWS fares. Ive never used RWS but i hear promising things.
 
Mr.james84 have yoy tried the .535 sized ball? I have a Lee round ball mold in that size and wonder if it will work good in the lyman. They say the rifling is cut deeper ...so not sure if the .535 would be best?
 
I have shot my Cabelas Hawkin in 45 caliber over a thousand times and am still on the first Hot shot nipple I put in it. And the factory nipple worked fine. I just bought the Hot Shot nipples because they were recommended in the Mountain State Muzzleloading catalog. Everyone remembers them, right?

I used my Cabelas 54 and a Lee Improved Minnie to kill my first elk. And it worked great. The elk ran 40 yards and hit a tree head on and died right there. It was running dead on its feet.

About a year ago I bought my latest Inverstarms Hawken. It looks for all the world to be the Cabelas Hawken rifle except it isn't marked Cabelas. I have never seen another one of their guns with a barrel and bore like on this gun. The barrel has a 1-60 twist. And unlike my other 50s and 54 this is a 6 groove barrel instead of a 5 groove barrel. Even my 50 cal Lyman Plains Rifle doesn't have a 6 groove barrel but a 5 groove with 1-60 twist.

According to the date code my newest gun was made in the 1980s but I don't remember the year for sure. And the bore is brand new perfect. And the reason for that is because as far as I can tell this gun has never been fired! And I haven't shot it yet either. But it should be a great RB shooter. I want to get a LEE REAL mold 250gr and try in it along with the RB load. I bet it shoots those good.

Dixie always stated that the Investarms guns they sold had .010 deep rifling if that helps.
 
Mr.james84 have yoy tried the .535 sized ball? I have a Lee round ball mold in that size and wonder if it will work good in the lyman. They say the rifling is cut deeper ...so not sure if the .535 would be best?
I haven't tried a .535. I was afraid it may be too tight of a fit and would be difficult to load or may get stuck half way down the bore.

I also have some Lyman minie ball projectiles in .54 cal, but they literally fall down the barrel and are loose. If anyone knows if it is possible to patch a loose fitting conical please let me know.

I've done some reading up on it, but haven't found any concrete info.
 
I also have some Lyman minie ball projectiles in .54 cal, but they literally fall down the barrel and are loose. If anyone knows if it is possible to patch a loose fitting conical please let me know.

This post describes how to paper patch a conical including minies. --->>> https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/310210-paper-patching-bullets-hunting-part-1-a.html

idahoron posted additional info. about paper patching and how to wrap bullets in these threads:

1. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/310211-paper-patching-bullets-hunting-part-2-a.html

2. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/244501-paper-patching-bullets-pictures-long-2.html

3. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/367094-questions-idahoron.html

Some have mentioned experimenting with using teflon tape to increase the diameter of a bullet.
And the teflon tape could simply be wrapped around only the mid-section of the bullet, just enough to hold it in the bore which would make starting and ramming it easier
than if the whole bullet were over-wrapped.
The idea is that a person would need to experiment to avoid over-wrapping the entire bullet which could make it too difficult to ram.
 
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Lee makes or used to make an oversized Improved Minnie mold. I have one and that what I use in my 54 caliber Hawken. It was what I used to kill my first elk. Its still a slip fit in the bore and not hard to ram down. My mold box says it drops a .540 bullet. I measured the two I have left and they both measure .545. I need to do another casting run as soon as it cools off a little more. I need more of these and some .45 balls for my 1858 revolver.

As for patched round balls some would have you loading balls with patches that were so thick you have to tap the ball down all the way on a clean bore. You don't need the balls this tight. The ball and patch should slide down in one smooth push and not be too tight. When the guns fires the ball is "foreshortened" per the Lyman BP manual and the sides of the ball will expand to fill in the grooves of the barrel.

What I like to do on my loads that are approaching 75grs of powder is use a firewall. That is that I start a patch in the bore a couple of inches and then insert the patched round ball on top of it. When I pick up my patches to check for burning through the firewall patch will be burned pretty good but the ball patch will be almost reusable because it suffered no damage. Maybe give this a try and see if it works for you.
 
The great Sam Fadala suggests using hornet nest material to stop patches from burning through. It works. Also there's a difference between burnt patches and cut ones, cutting comes from something sharp down bore or too tight fitted patches. Look at your expelled patches for signs of either. Just a side note, the patch does not seal the bore or act as a gasket. It's purpose is to grip the ball and engage the rifling. Watch a slow motion video of a muzzleloader being shot using ball and patch, you will see a puff of gasses being expelled from the muzzle before the ball and patch exit.
 
This post describes how to paper patch a conical including minies. --->>> https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/310210-paper-patching-bullets-hunting-part-1-a.html

idahoron posted additional info. about paper patching and how to wrap bullets in these threads:

1. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/310211-paper-patching-bullets-hunting-part-2-a.html

2. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/244501-paper-patching-bullets-pictures-long-2.html

3. https://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/367094-questions-idahoron.html

Some have mentioned experimenting with using teflon tape to increase the diameter of a bullet.
And the teflon tape could simply be wrapped around only the mid-section of the bullet, just enough to hold it in the bore which would make starting and ramming it easier
than if the whole bullet were over-wrapped.
The idea is that a person would need to experiment to avoid over-wrapping the entire bullet which could make it too difficult to ram.

Thanks for The info. I'll try one of these methods tomorrow.
 
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