.54 Lyman Deerstalker Question

[Jackrabbit1957]

I use the delrin rods from Track of the Wolf, I still need to get one for my plains rifle.

 

[Blackpowderwarrior]

Thanks for the information Jackrabbit! I'll have to check them out!

 

[rodwha]

Isn’t Delron one of those abrasive materials that require a muzzle protector?

I bought a custom ramrod from a retired machinist. Some felt it was made from a material not conducive to steel barrels without a muzzle protector. I don’t think it was definitive whether or not it was harmful, and I don’t recall what it’s made of, but I recall Delron in the conversation.

As an aside I’d recommend getting an additional ramrod as I did. It’s a range rod and the base was also threaded for a T-handle in case things get stuck. I also drilled a shallow 1/2” hole in my antler short starter to use as a palm saver. I like multifunctional things.

 

[arcticap]

Isn’t Delron one of those abrasive materials that require a muzzle protector?

Delrin is a plastic that IMHO is relatively harmless.
I have a muzzle protector and a long starter both made of Delrin.
I think that brass and aluminum is more abrasive than Delrin.
You may be thinking of fiberglass being abrasive which it is and can cause damage to crowns.

 

[rodwha]

I haven’t spoken up concerning the use of REALs as I don’t have enough experience using them yet, but I decided to tell you what I do know.

Initially I bought my Deerstalker (blued deep groove version) feeling a .490” ball was more than plenty for medium game and a conical would allow for bigger animals. I have read how some conicals will migrate off of the powder charge so I looked for one that wouldn’t/shouldn’t and found the inexpensive REAL.

I bought a handful of cast 320 grn REALs and had read these often need a felt was so punched some. My first shot without was a foot left and many inches low. The next two using a wad were nearly touching and just above the bull at 50 yds. I decided to just buy the mold. This was in a rifle I was still breaking in and using the crappy Pyrodex my father gave me.

I hadn’t shot that rifle in 6 years but I was unable to find anything that did well trying various powder charges. Granted my shooting skills declined but it’s quite possible my rifle is one of those that just won’t shoot those well. I intend on trying 2F Olde E too, though I prefer to use one granule for everything.

The .50 cal REAL’s top driving band is 0.517” wide. According to Lyman the grooves are ~.520”. Maybe working it out to 0.520” would impact it favorably? Not so sure the lead near the nose could obturate.

I’ve been told the REAL can come off of the charge. Not sure about that. Maybe it depends on the lube used?

What I have contemplated is the meplat. If I’m wanting to shoot an elk or a moose I think I’d prefer the wide meplat of the Great Plains or the .500 Lee that Idahoron paper patches. Not to mention the extra mass of the 395 grn conical. But I’m not sure how these would shoot from a deep grooved rifle.

Another thing I’ve contemplated is creating a hybrid design at Accurate Molds. Give the REAL design a wide meplat.

 

[rodwha]

Delrin is a plastic that IMHO is relatively harmless.
I have a muzzle protector and a long starter both made of Delrin.
I think that brass and aluminum is more abrasive than Delrin.
You may be thinking of fiberglass being abrasive which it is and can cause damage to crowns.

Probably. It was maybe a decade ago that I had that rod made and the conversation began.

 

[arcticap]

I’ve been told the REAL can come off of the charge. Not sure about that. Maybe it depends on the lube used?

Some paper wadding can be compressed on top of any lead conical to keep it from coming off the powder charge.

The important thing to be aware that just about any lead conical can come off the powder charge after it's been rammed and engraved.
It's not as much of an issue at the shooting range IF the barrel is kept upright after the conical is loaded.
But anyone who hunts with a conical should seriously consider firmly compressing some paper wadding over it to make sure that it stays on the powder charge.
Some conicals will fit tighter than others, especially sabots because they fit so tight to begin with.
But after a soft lead conical gets engraved, there's always the possibility that it could move off of the powder charge.
It should be a common practice to compress some paper over it just like with a load of shotgun pellets or buckshot.
IMO the compressed paper won't change the point of impact much if at all, and if anyone thinks that it would, then they should be range testing using the same loading method that they're going to be hunting with.
I sincerely hope that most everyone would consider compressing some wadding over their lead conicals, and be sure to make it tight enough to hold the conical in place during all of the bumps and rough handling of an entire deer season if needed.
The position of the conical can be rechecked during that time, but using compressed paper wadding or a similar method really should be a common practice.