accuracy between 10/22 guns

[txblackout]

I have a new 10/22 takedown. I put an sbx barrel on it and run it with a sparrow suppressor. Im a new shooter but it has shot fine and Im practicing with it for appleseed AQT. After a few practice sessions I scored a 217. I can get 3 round 2 inch groups at 25 yards.

Yesterday I bought a used 1995 era 10/22 with a wood stock ($169 with a swift 3-9 scope). I tested it out today (along with shooting the takedown) and I was floored. I shot 10 rounds with all shots touching each other within the bullseye of the large target.

As I was shooting it I could feel the used gun was heavier and seemed to move a lot less when I shot.

Is the takedown having issues? Is the used gun just a great gun? Is it the weight? Barrel? trigger? Any suggestions that would explain the difference?

 

[d2wing]

Some guys think the older ones are more accurate. I know a couple that are very accurate.

 

[ford8nr]

A 20 year old 10/22 is gonna have a smoother trigger if for nothing but wear. The wood stock is probably heavier then the plastic on the takedown giving it better balance and weight. I just bought a Savage Axis bolt action and added about 6-8 oz of lead/steel to the butt stock to balance it out. If you haven't done anything to the takedowns trigger you want to at minimum disassemble and polish all wear surfaces with 600/1000 grit emery. There's some great YouTube vids on the trigger.

 

[ford8nr]

Does the takedown have a scope? Not that a scope makes you a better shooter, but as a new shooter that could be the difference.

 

[JohnKSa]

I can get 3 round 2 inch groups at 25 yards.

Something's very wrong. I'm assuming you're doing that testing from a bench--you should definitely be able to get better than 8MOA from a .22LR rifle.

Either that rifle really HATES the ammo you're using in it or something (suppressor, scope, etc.) is loose or damaged.

 

[rcmodel]

I have one made in 1967 I would put up against anything they make today when I have a good scope on it.

Have to ask though?
How did your new one shoot before you put an after-market barrel and can on it?

You really aren't shooting a stock 10/22 Ruger anymore you know?

rc

 

[bannockburn]

I have an older 10/22 that with Wolf Match Target ammo is very accurate. Like rc said, I would put my rifle up against any comparable curent production 10/22 and feel confident that my rifle would do better in terms of overall accuracy.

 

[txblackout]

i have a mueller apv on the takedown (both have scopes)

Im not really shooting benchrest but I was resting my elbows on the bench

didnt really measure how well the takedown shot before changing the barrel.

I might try bench rest tomorrow.

 

[tuj]

The 10/22 is not that accurate of a rifle. But it should shoot MUCH better than 3" groups at 25 yards. You might check the crown of your barrel for nicks. You might also want to slug the barrel and see if there are any tight spots and you can lap them out using JB Bore compound. You might have gotten a bad barrel on your take-down rifle.

I had a Savage MKII that wouldn't shoot better than 0.7" at 50-yards while everyone else says theirs will do much better. I recrowned the thing and it still wouldn't shoot. Finally slugged the barrel and the QC must have been bad that day.

 

[jmr40]

Accuracy seems to ebb and flow over time. Some rifles are quite accurate, some less so and when it was made doesn't seem to matter much. I have one made 3-4 years ago that will come darn close to my CZ. I've have others both newer and older that are not as good.

The TD models, including mine don't appear to be quite as accurate, but the difference at least with mine is small. With those it is vital that the barrel be put on correctly "EVERY" time.

 

[CB900F]

Txblackout;

There are a number of factors that could be figuring into your basic question. To my mind, the biggest one would be ammunition. All .22lr rimfires are relatively picky about what they're fed. You could have two 10/22's with consecutive serial number's and "this" one would shoot much better with ammo A, and "that" one would just spray it. And vice-versa with ammo B. Therefore, one of the first things I'd do is start a program of ammo testing, particularly with the take-down. Problem is, it's pretty tough these days to get a wide variety of the stuff to do the testing with. Good luck.

I have seen some 10/22's, all stock, shoot quite well when fed what they wanted to shoot. I have also seen a 10/22 that wouldn't shoot anything improve to holding an inch at fifty yards with nothing more than a barrel change, stock-for-stock. Meaning you buy somebody's 10/22 take-off barrel & swap it for the one that came on your gun. This should be a five or ten dollar proposition, rather than a one or two hundred dollar target barrel cost.

Then, have you made sure you've got the headspace set correctly on your take-down? It can make a significant difference in accuracy. Also, playing a bit with the headspace can possibly improve accuracy.

Have you tried the take-down with the can removed? That may well make an accuracy difference, and may change the ammo it wants to shoot also.

900F

 

[txblackout]

Bannock: my used 10/22 looks exactly like yours except stainless steel/aluminum parts - no bluing

All: when you test for accuracy are you clamping the gun down, shooting benchrest or holding the gun with both hands (maybe arms supported)?

CB900F: I have about 5000 rounds of 22lr all different mfg and types. I have been mostly shooting golden bullet, then winchester and some CCI quiet and aquila super colibri.

For example it really didnt like super colibri primer only subsonic. That stuff shot 5 inch groups at 25 yards.

How would I impact headspace? Read up on headspace, looks like it isnt something I can do on my own.

 

[Picher]

I tried accurizing a friend's 10-22, including several tricks learned off the internet and some I found to work. It wouldn't group better than 1 1/2" at 50 yards until I installed a new aftermarket barrel. It then grouped 1/2-3/4" at that distance.

 

[CB900F]

Txblackout;

We may have found the problem. The take-down's headspace is owner adjustable, and in fact is a must do. Consult your owner's manual for proper procedure. If you don't have the owner's manual, you can download one from the Ruger website (If you can figure out how to navigate/use the site, I don't find it to be at all intuitive). I suspect that this is the problem with it's accuracy. My take-down like's it's headspace tight, yours may differ.

900F

 

[bannockburn]

txblackout

At the indoor range, 50', standing. At the outdoor range, 50 yards to 100 yards, standing and benchrest.

 

[Onmilo]

Th e first 10/22 I bought in 1977 shot with superb accuracy.
I have owned several since, own one now, and NONE will shoot as well as my first one.
Will probably put a Volquartsen barrel and stock on current one and see what happens.

 

[bannockburn]

I also tried a lot of different ammo from a lot of manufacturers and found that even with high end Match or Target grade ammo (various types of Eley, RWS, Federal Gold Medal, and CCI Green Tag come to mind), didn't mean a thing when it came down to accuracy in my 10/22. Initially I had great results with CCI MiniMags then finally found Wolf Match Target to be the most accurate in my rifle.

 

[txblackout]

CB900F, that could definitely be it. I never did the procedure. It was in a very loose position. I followed the directions and will test at the range this afternoon.

 

[CB900F]

Txblackout;

I sure hope it works for you, and good luck!

900F

 

[txblackout]

Ok back from the range. Gun shoots great now. Still not quite as good as non takedown gun, but pretty close. I think it is more related to it being front heavy with the suppressor. When I put it on a bag I could shoot out the bullseye.

the instructions said to put the barrel piece on then tighten it as far as it would go. Take the barrel off and tighten two more clicks. There should be resistance. There really wasnt much resistance at all

It seemed liked I could go 3-4 more clicks before feeling resistance to putting the barrel piece on. Should I go an extra 3-4 clicks or should I just leave it at the 2-3 in the instructions?

 

[CB900F]

Txblackout;

My take is that the tighter headspace is the way to go with that ammunition. If you want to be sure, measure the rim thickness of what you were using. Then, if you leave it tight, measure the avg rim thickness of whatever new fodder you put in it & adjust accordingly. If you don't want to go to that trouble, leave it a single click tighter than the manual calls for.

900F

 

[41maguser]

Much as I expect from the 10/22 mines a tack driver way better than i am

 

[41maguser]

btw -- anyone have any experience with the new trigger/action group rugernisnselling?

 

[rcmodel]

It seemed liked I could go 3-4 more clicks before feeling resistance to putting the barrel piece on. Should I go an extra 3-4 clicks or should I just leave it at the 2-3 in the instructions?

No experience with the Ruger take-down.

But it is basically the same system as the Browning SA-22.

So don't go 4 clicks.

Go 1 click at a time, and try it each time, until the barrel tightens tightly to the receiver with just enough final twist to latch the latch.

Nobody but Your Gun, and Your Treads, and the after-market barrel can tell you on the internet how many 'clicks' that will take!!!

But regardless of that, the barrel must be tight to the receiver if you expect any accuracy out of it!

rc

 

[txblackout]

thanks rcmodel, Ill take a closer look. My sense is it wasnt that tight.