Are the Sig cracked frame stories true, and do they replace the frame?

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heavyshooter

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Brethren,

I recently purchased a Sig P226 from the consignment counter at the local gun shop. I have wanted one for a while but I did not want a "tactical rail" and it seems that all of the new ones come with it. Because of this I purchased a used one and it is a beauty. Having said that, I have been hearing stories about frames cracking after about 5,000 to 10,000 rounds. I must say that it would be a little annoying for such an expensive gun to give out after 10,000 rounds. I field stripped the weapon and I did notice some wear near the front of the slide rails. The first 1 1/4 inches are worn down to the aluminum (the bluing is gone). This is something that I would expect, but the wear is not smooth. There are burrs present that are tangibly obvious. With careful attention, I can even see them. The appearance of the gun is about 90-95%, but I have no idea how many rounds have been through it and I have not fired it yet so I am unsure of how well it functions.

This leads to a few questions:

1) Are the cracked frame rumors true?

2) Have you guys noticed such wear on your Sigs?

3) Do the cracks occur as soon as 10,000 rounds?

4) I have heard that Sig will replace a frame that succumbs to the cracked frame fate. That would be great, but is it true?

Heavy
 
I
have been hearing stories about frames cracking after about 5,000 to 10,000 rounds
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I heard stories about alien abductions...probably has just as much validity. Seriously, you will find many here who have much more than that number through their firearms with no problems. Sounds like another urban legend as I've never heard that before today.
 
1) probably
2) no, not even close
3) maybe, if you make 1,000,000 guns and 99.9999% are perfectly flawless, there's still 1 that will crack. bad stories are told, great experiences are not.
 
1. yes the early ones with the "sand cuts"
2. 1.25" is quite a bit and wear wouldn't be rough...it would be smooth
3. i've never heard of one that soon. but anything is possible, especially if it wasn't lube properly and the springs weren't changed regularly.
4. they don't anymore. they did one the ones that were flawed...that was 20 years ago
 
4. they don't anymore. they did one the ones that were flawed...that was 20 years ago
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9mmepiphany,

Does this mean that they have addressed the problem and the P226 that is less than 20 years old is more durable?

Heavy
 
I should mention that it is a P226 .40S&W that I have purchased a .357 Sig barrel for. The pressure of both rounds is notably higher than a 9mm so this may make them more prone to frame cracks.

Heavy
 
yes they fixed it. if your frame is cracking now...actually the problem was the rails cracking...it would be from a material defect (that absolute again) or abuse.

in a .40/357, i would definately follow the recommended spring change interval (3-5k rounds) and use a good grease (not oil) on the rails for training
 
The pressure of both rounds is notably higher than a 9mm so this may make them more prone to frame cracks.
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It's not really pressure that tears up autopistols (except in the extreme case of a catastrophic failure due to an overpressure event), it's slide/barrel velocity due to recoil. The faster the slide/barrel move the more force they apply to the frame when they hit it.

The 40S&W SAAMI pressure limits are identical to that of the 9mm, and the .357SIG is only about 14% higher than the 9mm. What makes the difference in durability is the fact that in similar guns the slide velocity of the .40 is greater than that of the 9mm and the .357SIG is higher yet.
 
I owned an early Sig P226 that developed a small slide rail crack. I contacted Sig, told them about the problem, and they said to send it to them. They replaced it with a whole new gun. The customer service at Sig is great and to this day I still own a Sig. They truly "stand behind" their products.
 
1) Yes the early P226 frames can fail at the rails. I've seen it and my uncle still has his broken frame which Sig refused to replace back in the 80's. I can take pictures if you don't believe it.

2) No I have seen no roughnes on my own early 80's P226 which has the early style 2-piece slide. Mine is smooth and shows little wear.

3) My uncle's P226 failed under 500 rounds!

4) I don't think this is true any more of the early guns as they are all getting close to 24-25 years old at this point.

My understanding is that after the first 50,000 frames there was a change in the way the P226 frames were manufactured that solved the frame rail failures.

HTH!
 
1) Yes the early P226 frames can fail at the rails. I've seen it and my uncle still has his broken frame which Sig refused to replace back in the 80's. I can take pictures if you don't believe it.

2) No I have seen no roughnes on my own early 80's P226 which has the early style 2-piece slide. Mine is smooth and shows little wear.
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newartist,

Is it possible to show photos so I can compare your slide wear to mine?

Heavy
 
My understanding is that after the first 50,000 frames there was a change in the way the P226 frames were manufactured that solved the frame rail failures.
Click to expand...
I remember hearing there was some changes done. But not sure if the early changes fully cured the problem for good.

As far as I know when Sig started making the P226 in 40 S&W around 1992 - 1994 (can't remember exact year). Sig addressed the P226 frame rail cracking issue with even more manufacturing changes on all P226 frames. I have not known of any frame rail issues on any P226 since the year the 40 S&W came out on this frame.

Has anyone else had an issue with the P226 cracking the frame rails manufactured after 1992 - 1994?
 
Heavyshooter,

Sure I will try to take a few tomorrow in the daylight. You want to see the front frame rails?

I think you can send Sig your serial number and $25 and they will send you a certificate with date of manufacture and or import.

OBTW is your slide one piece or two. I don't know what the correct name for the part in the slide is called but it looks like it is what the breech block stops/locks against when the weapon is in battery.

HTH!
 
Runningman,

Yes I think that is correct. There were some initial changes made in the frame material and machining. I have also heard there were some changes and dimensional changes after the first material and machining changes but I don't know what they were.

All of the P226 frame failures that I know of were limited to early production P226 frames. There are rumors of some early 90's frame failures but these are hard to confirm as they were not original owners and the age of the P226's in question were not confirmed.

HTH!
 
newartist,

I am interested in the first (front) two inches of your rails. That is where I seem to have the most wear. I do not see any wear on the remainder of the rails.

I do not have my weapon within reach so I am unable to check and see if the slide is one piece or two. I believe that it is one.

Heavy
 
newartist:

i don't believe they produced any 226 with thestamped/folded slide...assuming that is what you are referencing with your question.

BTW: not counting the small parts, the stamped slides are actually 4 pieces:
1. the slide body that is folded
2. the breach block that is pin into the slide with 2 rolled pins
3. the front and rear caps that are welded to the slide body after forming
 
Hey 9mmepiphany,

Yes you are correct they were stamped steel with welded front and rear sections. Maybe you just have not seen a P226 with the stamped slide. I have one, my borther had one and our uncle as several. These were purchased in late 1984 early 1985. We bought them through our friend and gunsmith John French and the B&B Sales gunshop in L.A. This was long before John French became a celebrity gunsmith and then started the S&W custom shop.

HTH!
 
oops...i wasn't being very clear

i was refering to heavyshoot's post about his being chambered in .40. i've never seen a stamped slide 226 chambered in .40.

i thought the milled slides were introduced to the 226 for the .40
 
I think the P226's with fully milled slides came before the .40S&W was introduced. I could be wrong but I think the 9mm P226 just evoloved to this point over time trying to improve the gun and cut costs. It's wierd to consider but I think that a milled slide is probably just as cheap or maybe even cheaper to manufacture than the stamped and welded pieces. It just takes less time to feed the stock into a CNC machine than to stamp, weld, machine and finish than to shove a piece of steel into a CNC workstation.
 
Heavy,

I was out doing some odds and ends for the house so missed the window for decent light. I'll try again tomorrow. Can I post images here or do I email them to you?
 
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