Bench loader problems

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Franco2shoot

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Oct 17, 2006
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The Right side of D.C.-NOVA(Springfield, Va.)
I finally got to the range yesterday and was anxious to try out the off-line bench loader instead of using the 1860 Uberti Remington. What a miserable experience. I first want to report that the Uberti does not like CCI #11's. I broke a long standing tester's rule and had gone from #10's to the 11's and that was a large part of my problem.

I should have known better, the Goex pellets were dropped in 6 holes, then a wonder wad felt circle, and finally the ball. The bench loader did not fit precisely and shaved off a little brass from its ram, but I didn't think much of this. Where I really went wrong was in pressing the ball down. It is one thing to do it on the 1860 frame, you can feel when the lever has fully seated the ball. This same feel and look are different for a free standing loader. As it turned out most of the balls were not fully seated. Then the cap issue swung in. I put the poorly loaded cylinder into the frame, then pushed on #11 caps. I seated these with a seperate dowel, so I know the caps were fully seated. First shot, resulted in a fizzle, with caps dropping off, now I had copper caps jambed in behind the cylinder. I used a small pocket knife, and finally removed the cylinder. This time I squished caps and replaced the fallen off ones with fresh 11's, carefully placing the cylinder back in. Again a fizzle, on number 1, 2 went off no joy on 3, or 4, but 5 and 6 went off. It was at this point that I realized something was not right. The caps were not exploding and falling out. Number 10's, when they go off, expand outwards such that you have pieces of copper that falls to the ground. The 11's would expand but not self destruct, as such they would wedge in the cylinder backing making it nearly impossible to remove the cylinder. After lots of prying and poking with the small knife, I pulled the cylinder back out and tried to re-press the ball in the 3 remaining. I also switched to #10's, which would go bang but not ignite the Goex. I pulled the cylinder back out and used a pick to clear the nipples. After 3 more tries I finally got all shots to fire in the cylinder.

I am guessing that the start of my problems was in not fully compressing the ball down onto the wad and Goex, and that the 11's were also a mis-match that only made things worse.

When I switched to the Pietta Colt, I used the #10's and the pistol's loader. I also used the dowel to fully seat the caps. On firing the Colt every shot went off on the first hammer fall, and this was a pleasant surprise since it would usually mis fire at least 2 shots in the past. The difference being that yesterday I pressed the caps down firmly using the dowel.

For the future, I am going to load the Remington using the pistol's loader, then remove the cylinder and place it in the bench loader. I plan to take some red enamal paint and place the ram down on the ball then mark the position on the brass ram so I have an indication of just how far down the loader should be when correctly pressed. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated.

KKKKFL
 
BP loader update

Got to the range this warm weekend and did some testing with the loader stand. Now that I have broken the code (Kind of) I can recommend this approach to other 58 Remmy pistol owners.

I have two cylinders, and the time spent using the revolvers loading system is a little slow. The bench press is much easier, since for one thing you can look directly down the cylinder and see the pellets, felts, balls as the process progresses. For me I drop a pellet in each, a pad in each, then press the felt pad so it is nice and flat, then go round a ball at a time. I do still have one outstanding problem. The brass plunger that pushes the ball down has a "U" shape to the end. For some reason the side closest to the inner cylinder wall wants to gouge and does not press straight down the throat of the cylinder. There is a little play in the plunger and it seems to want to tilt towards the inner side on only one of the two cylinders I have. The other problem I had was knowing exactly how hard and far to press the ball down. I cured this by taking a ball and sanding it down to where it would roll in and out of a cylinder. Then I did a load with this undersized ball and marked the plunger when all was properly seated. I just rolled the ball out once the marking was complete. I find that with this new marking, and everything being so easy to see, a re-load takes far less time.

The only remaining slow down in the process is putting the caps on the nipples. I don't like the idea of putting the caps on the cylinder with the cylinder not in the frame. Someone called such a capped cylinder a "Hand-grenade" and I would have to agree. So I am looking for a commercial cap dispenser that makes this step easier than using my fat fingers and trying to giggle the cap to the proper position before pusing it down with a wooden dowel.

If anybody knows of the "Best" cap dispenser for a Uberti 1858 Remington I would sure like to hear about it.

KKKKFL
 
Cylinder Loader

If you go to Powder,Inc.-you will see a cylinder loader that is quite good and very adjustable.Although is cost about $57-I don't think you will need another one.I use it for my Pietta Remmy and Rogers and Spencer and I can tell you it is great.Ernie
 
Franco, if you can find them, you might try Remington caps. I've had a lot of problems with CCI caps in the past. I use Remington exclusively now and haven't had any problems since. One less thing to worry about. :)
 
thunder ridge

I am using the Thunder ridge model...slightly modified since I attached it to a larger wooden base plate. What is not apparent in the TR picture is that that brass plunger piece is pinned in a slot on the lever. This allows the plunger to work on different diameter cylinders. Since I only use .454 and .451 lead balls, I'm guessing that I could do something that would keep the brass towards the handle end. What was curious is the fact that on one cylinder it always seemed to align perfectly, while the second cylinder didn't seem to seat as smoothly and the plunger wanted to tilt. It would work, but I needed to tinker with it to make it press straight down, usually holding the brass towards the lever handle end.

I would like to find a way to make the TR model work better if only for the size difference. I already have too many bits and pieces dumped out on the bench at the range what with a tin of caps, the Pyrodex pellet container, two different boxes of lead,(Colt leaves rings using .451 while Remmy likes .454) an Altoid tin that has a mixture of burts bees wax, canola oil and Gun butter, a nipple prick, 3" dowel for cap seating and a pack of lubed wads all surrounding the press and guns and extra cylinders. Yikes! I'm the Julia Childes of the Gunshow....

I will post a picture if I find Nirvana...


KKKKFL

I'll
 
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