Brass frame revolvers

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Wow...cant you guys just let us load our newer brassers to 25 grains.and let us have fun with them...just because your gun cost 50 bucks more doesn't give you the right to tell me how to load mine... I just want to pull the trigger and see smoke and sparks. Just like you :D

You can do what you want but don't blame us when your brass frame beats itself to death with those loads.
 
I own and shoot many brass framed revolvers. Though many are NOT historically accurate, I love the look of them. It is true that in the long-run the steel framed revolvers will outlast the brassies, but I don't shoot them with "full strength" BP loads. Even my Uberti Walkers are tamed down to 40grns of 3F...and they have steel frames. There is no point of making everything a magnum....
 
Wow...cant you guys just let us load our newer brassers to 25 grains.and let us have fun with them...just because your gun cost 50 bucks more doesn't give you the right to tell me how to load mine... I just want to pull the trigger and see smoke and sparks. Just like you :D
Smoke and BOOM, gotta love it!

Not to take sides but.....I think their intent was to give y'all brassies good advice but you didn't listen and bought a brasser anyway. Now that they want to give y'all more good advise so your brasser survives......

....you can lead a horse to water...... :neener:...I personally think you should cram in as much powder as you can then after a few cylinders you've got a great paper weight or a nice sexy looking hammer. o_O
 
If I had a 36 brasser my light loads would be well under 25grs. I would think more like 15, but that's just me. I use to shoot on the Nation range with a 1858 Lyman NMA 44 [ steel frame ], and at 25 yards it was 20grs, 50 yards 25grs for the same point of impact. Those loads would group good enough for 99s or the occasional 100. Now a days I just shot for fun and I have a question. I have a 8 and 12" 44 cal NMAs that are nickle plated. Are they brass underneath ? I've never shot them, they're still in the box. I bought them a couple of years ago when I was laid up because, I think, they just looked so good all shiny with the engraving. If they are brass underneath it would be with maybe 18grs of 3F.
 
Use a magnate on the frame, Mr. Harm. That will tell you whether you have steel or brass under the nickel plating.
 
If I had a 36 brasser my light loads would be well under 25grs. I would think more like 15, but that's just me. I use to shoot on the Nation range with a 1858 Lyman NMA 44 [ steel frame ], and at 25 yards it was 20grs, 50 yards 25grs for the same point of impact. Those loads would group good enough for 99s or the occasional 100. Now a days I just shot for fun and I have a question. I have a 8 and 12" 44 cal NMAs that are nickle plated. Are they brass underneath ? I've never shot them, they're still in the box. I bought them a couple of years ago when I was laid up because, I think, they just looked so good all shiny with the engraving. If they are brass underneath it would be with maybe 18grs of 3F.

I would say 95% of them are brass under the nickel.
 
Moving on past the war of northern aggression, and subsequent occupation of the south… brass was cheaper to cast and work back then too. Early cartridge guns (not all, but many) had brass frames. Especially the 22rf guns which needed very little strength to still be fully functional and durable.
 
You all got me looking at my sorry but beloved FIE .36 1851, which has been stored away a few years.

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The load I used most often was 20gr Goex FFFg, .375" soft lead ball, #11 or #10 caps. Bought the revolver by mail order in the mid 1970s. My only mailorder gun.

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This is what folks have been trying to warn you about inexpensive brass frame revolvers after a lot of shooting.

But it was fun. It may still have a few shots left in it.

(I did shorten the barrel myself.)
 
Guess I'll take the 8" barreled nickle plated NMA, which has been loaded and put away, and put it in the mantle clock above the fireplace. It'll be cool when I'm gone and someone finds it. Maybe a note with it saying it's loaded in case they can't figure it out.
 
While not as robust aka no heavy loads, and not as durable (unless they are fully tuned by Goonworks apparently), the other aspect of Brass is they look kinda cool I have purchased a couple just for that reason one an old ASM 1858 Richland, price was right, it works, and it looks kinda cool to me.

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Webrx that sure looks like my back fence with the marks from a hail storm on it and the ASM revolver I sold to someone here. Was that you? I can't for the life of me remember. Ha! Have you ever shot it? How did it shoot? I never fired it and when I sold it, it had never been fired as far as I could tell.
 
Webrx that sure looks like my back fence with the marks from a hail storm on it and the ASM revolver I sold to someone here. Was that you? I can't for the life of me remember. Ha! Have you ever shot it? How did it shoot? I never fired it and when I sold it, it had never been fired as far as I could tell.
Yep! I have not fired it yet but I have cleaned it all up and lubed it. Has a sweet trigger and busts caps on all 6.
 
Yep! I have not fired it yet but I have cleaned it all up and lubed it. Has a sweet trigger and busts caps on all 6.

OK thats good. I could not remember who I sold that gun to. But I am glad you like it and am having fun with it. If you ever do shoot it let me know.
 
Well I like my brass frame 1858 fake rem and my 1892 brass frame rossi. Keep in mind John Wayne used 1892's just after the civil war
I didn't intend to quote and post. Just emphasizes the power of John Wayne I guess.
 
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OK thats good. I could not remember who I sold that gun to. But I am glad you like it and am having fun with it. If you ever do shoot it let me know.
I was planning a black powder day, but they closed the local quarry to shooting as they are building within a mile of it.

My friends private range is not accessible right now between snow, mud, etc, and shooting at the local range has a few drawbacks (I feel like I am under a microscope when reloading), not to mention the wind and all that purty smoke blowing down the line if they put you upwind.

I am gonna get out and shoot some BP again eventually, just waiting for the right opportunity
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Smoke and BOOM, gotta love it!

Not to take sides but.....I think their intent was to give y'all brassies good advice but you didn't listen and bought a brasser anyway. Now that they want to give y'all more good advise so your brasser survives......

....you can lead a horse to water...... :neener:...I personally think you should cram in as much powder as you can then after a few cylinders you've got a great paper weight or a nice sexy looking hammer. o_O
Not really..., most of us understand that a brasser shouldn't be loaded to magnum loads, just like yours and mine steel repros shouldn't also, I don't over load my smokeless rounds per gun, why would I overload my BP guns, your actuation assume were all idiots with our brassers...mine shoot just fine, and look just fine doing the same outcome as any steel frame... feel free to disagree with me...:neener:
 
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