Brass frame revolvers

[Eyrie G. Dogg]

Well, alright then.

 

[45 Dragoon]

Those that shoot "brassers" should definitely understand about the short arbor and easy fix. Don't mean to sound like a broken record but when the arbor is wrong . . . the revolver is wrong.
Brassers, being softer, exhibit the same thing that happens to steel frames but on an accelerated scale. When a cylinder is allowed to act as a slide hammer between the barrel and recoil shield, that's what " hammers " the two assemblies with each shot. It all depends on the specs your particular revolver has as to how fast things happen. If your arbor is loose "out of the box", it won't take long.

Several yrs ago I set up two brass framed revolvers (different owners) as a "test bed" (they knew it) for close tolerance to see the results of shooting "normal" powder charges. They both reported no advanced wear. That was a long time ago but it only stands to reason that if a revolver cant beat itself up, it won't.

Mike

 

[Captain*kirk]

Several yrs ago I set up two brass framed revolvers (different owners) as a "test bed" (they knew it) for close tolerance to see the results of shooting "normal" powder charges. They both reported no advanced wear. That was a long time ago but it only stands to reason that if a revolver cant beat itself up, it won't.

Mike

What did you consider close tolerance, Mike? Under .001?

 

[45 Dragoon]

What did you consider close tolerance, Mike? Under .001?

Hey Cap!! No, .0025" - .003" endshake on a cap gun is sufficient. I wouldn't go over .003". The "test" revolvers were kept at .0025" if my memory is correct. If it is to be a converted revolver and stay a cartridge shooter, I'd tighten it up to .002"

Mike

 

[ThomasT]

Those that shoot "brassers" should definitely understand about the short arbor and easy fix. Don't mean to sound like a broken record but when the arbor is wrong . . . the revolver is wrong.
Brassers, being softer, exhibit the same thing that happens to steel frames but on an accelerated scale. When a cylinder is allowed to act as a slide hammer between the barrel and recoil shield, that's what " hammers " the two assemblies with each shot. It all depends on the specs your particular revolver has as to how fast things happen. If your arbor is loose "out of the box", it won't take long.

Several yrs ago I set up two brass framed revolvers (different owners) as a "test bed" (they knew it) for close tolerance to see the results of shooting "normal" powder charges. They both reported no advanced wear. That was a long time ago but it only stands to reason that if a revolver cant beat itself up, it won't.

Mike

Thats the best answer in this entire thread. And the reason that having a brass framed gun wouldn't worry me. I wouldn't run full bore loads every time I shot, but I wouldn't shoot full power loads in a steel framed gun all the time either. And I don't shoot mag loads all the time in my smokeless magnum guns. My guns live an easy life.

 

[Paul R Zartman]

I like my brasser, its shiny...and yes, it has its limitations, but shooting paper or Indian/Desperado silhouettes...wait a minute, I'm part Indian and Desperado... Oh Well, anyway, I don't even shoot full load 45 colt or 44 mag either anymore....