Can I tune an MIM 1911 extractor?

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nitesite

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So I've done the requisite searches before asking this question, but cannot find the asnwer.

My 1911 extractor doesn't have the side pressure that I have read the 1911s should have. Still, my pistol seems to run just fine for now. I also read on Wilson's web site that improperly-tuned extractors may have some effect on ejection, even if extraction is good.

So as the thread title asks.... can an MIM part be tweaked, or will it break?

Thanks.

nitesite
 
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Yes, you can bend it. You have a steel extractor that was made via the MIM process. It probably won't hold tension as well as a machined steel and you might be adjusting it over and over but it will work (unless it breaks ;) .)

If your pistol is working fine, why fix it?
 
I second that. If it's working fine, leave it alone. If not, yes, you can tune it, but I'd just go ahead and put a good one in there--and then tune that one.
 
Well, I carefully avoided saying that I was going to attempt anything. I'm glad you guys picked up on the fact that since I'm not having problems then why mess with it. That's my feeling as well.

I am merely looking for good info that I can file away if I should ever want to play around.

"I'd just go ahead and put a good one in there--and then tune that one."

That precisely what I was considering a ways down the road.

Thanks!
 
If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

MIM extractors usually won't hold tension for very long and the hook may break. When extraction becomes erratic or the extractor fails, install a quality extractor like the Ed Brown Hardcore.
 
MIM Extractor

Yep...You can tweak it...but it probably won't last long. Most of'em break before they lose tension.

Are ya right sure it's MIM? Colt threw in the towel on MIM extractors a few months back, and I don't know of anybody else that's usin'em now.

Take it out and look at the underside of the butt-end. If it's MIM, there should be a rectangular indentation there. If you don't see it, it's machined barstock...likely 4340.

Luck!

Tuner
 
MIM extractors usually work to start with, but if they loose their tension (as maybe yours might have) erratic ejection and slide-catching-the case jams can result. So long as your pistol is used for recreational shooting this may be an annoyance, but not a major issue. If your pistol is, or might be used for a weapon you’d better think about replacing it.
 
MIM is the wrong way to make extractors. It's too hard and does not make a good part for this application. MIM is great for some parts, but not extractors. When it breaks, replace it with a quality part.
 
My Kimber Classic is showing the symptoms OF described, say, once in 50-100 rounds, doesn't seem to be ammo-specific. Though it is a range queen, I won't keep a gun that isn't 99.9999999% reliable.

The next logical question becomes, who makes a good replacement extractor? TIA.
 
Well, after reading what Tuner said, perhaps I don't have a MIM extractor. No rectangular indention, but the letter L is in it.

BTW, this is in a Springer parkerized Mil-Spec made 2004.
 
Yes, I know I am off on my favorite rant, but...

The 1911 extractor IS A SPRING. The only material that should be used to make it is spring steel. Not MIM. Not casting. Not machined from bar stock. Machined from spring steel, which is then hardened and tempered.

Period.

Jim
 
Jim's Favorite Rant

Jim screamed:

The 1911 extractor IS A SPRING. The only material that should be used to make it is spring steel. Not MIM. Not casting. Not machined from bar stock. Machined from spring steel, which is then hardened and tempered.
______________________

AMEN BROTHER KEENAN! TESTIFY!

Wouldja settle for a 4340 barstock extractor that I've figgered out how ta make spring-like? Works extra-good...No tension tweakin' needed for
goin' on 50k now...and I leave a dummy chambered 24/7 when I'm not shootin' it.:cool:
 
Spring steel is the best and what John Moses Browning used in his original design specs. Bar stock is a good second best, followed by casting and MIM just does not work well at all.
 
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