Skylerbone
Member
Back to the original question and the subsequent answer that there is good and bad MIM. I truly believe that every bit of MIM currently used in 1911s would provide a lifetime of service IF, and it's a big one, everything were fitted properly.
The real problem, and the notion that MIM is bad stems from breakage. It's natural to blame the slide stop rather than the barrel feet that crashed into it. Blame the sear rather than the guy who wanted to "touch up" the angles but got it wrong.
I've read a fair share of threads involving MIM parts breakage but very few that looked for a cause. The answer to most 1911 questions is seldom (correctly) answered with better parts.
If you're interested in a solid build candidate a Colt, SA, Norinco or DW will all be excellent candidates in reference to in spec frames. As far as getting every aspect right because you read a manual, I wouldn't count on it. If you read the manuals, had a machinest background and the necessary tools and fixtures then by all means give it a go. I must concur with the idea that buying an expensive 1911 is money spent not for the sum of its parts alone but for the expertise behind the build.
I'm no expert but I think there's a reason the same dozen or so 1911 builders come up in conversation so often. They do things right and that generally costs more. Everyone is free to attempt as much or as little as they are comfortable with bearing in mind that even expensive lessons can be lessons none the less.
PS, if you've ever looked at Tuner's post count you may get an inkling that the 1911 isn't the platform to tackle without a solid commitment to understanding first.
The real problem, and the notion that MIM is bad stems from breakage. It's natural to blame the slide stop rather than the barrel feet that crashed into it. Blame the sear rather than the guy who wanted to "touch up" the angles but got it wrong.
I've read a fair share of threads involving MIM parts breakage but very few that looked for a cause. The answer to most 1911 questions is seldom (correctly) answered with better parts.
If you're interested in a solid build candidate a Colt, SA, Norinco or DW will all be excellent candidates in reference to in spec frames. As far as getting every aspect right because you read a manual, I wouldn't count on it. If you read the manuals, had a machinest background and the necessary tools and fixtures then by all means give it a go. I must concur with the idea that buying an expensive 1911 is money spent not for the sum of its parts alone but for the expertise behind the build.
I'm no expert but I think there's a reason the same dozen or so 1911 builders come up in conversation so often. They do things right and that generally costs more. Everyone is free to attempt as much or as little as they are comfortable with bearing in mind that even expensive lessons can be lessons none the less.
PS, if you've ever looked at Tuner's post count you may get an inkling that the 1911 isn't the platform to tackle without a solid commitment to understanding first.