What seems to be the problems you're running into on the Starr?If you ever wind up with a Pietta Starr, be prepared for disappointment. A lot of them didn't function correctly out of the box.
What seems to be the problems you're running into on the Starr?
Not for nothing man, where it me I’d take something
a little more modern for that task. Say a Smith 29 or 629. Just saying.
Or at the very least equip the RS with a 45C cylinder and load it hot.
If you ever wind up with a Pietta Starr, be prepared for disappointment. A lot of them didn't function correctly out of the box.
I really like the R&S and got a Howell conversion cylinder for mine. Needs a taller front sight.
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Again correct me if I am wrong but I think the singer action Star Revolvers are good to go. It's the double action version that is trouble.
Don’t follow your reasoning. If the cylinder can handle the load, where’s the pressure on the frame, recoil against the recoil shield, ?, pressure transfer into barrel before bullet leaves ? According to one well know poster here the Colts open tops are actually stronger than the closed frames.The Italian guns can't handle hot loads. The conversion cylinders can but that's not the problem. The frames are fairly soft.
Don’t follow your reasoning. If the cylinder can handle the load, where’s the pressure on the frame, recoil against the recoil shield, ?, pressure transfer into barrel before bullet leaves ? According to one well know poster here the Colts open tops are actually stronger than the closed frames.
The R&S are probably better built than the Remingtons and Ruger Old Armies, well they are in a class by them selves.
Not disagreeing just don’t follow the reasoning.
Conversion cylinder manufacturers caution against and I’m not advocating 44Magnum pressure smokeless loads but 45C loads such as a compressed 40 grain 3F under a 255 grain bullet load.
Firing puts strain on a lot more than just the cylinder. It stresses the bolt, the bolt window in the frame, the hand, ratchet and backthrust basically tries to stretch the gun apart.Don’t follow your reasoning. If the cylinder can handle the load, where’s the pressure on the frame, recoil against the recoil shield, ?, pressure transfer into barrel before bullet leaves ? According to one well know poster here the Colts open tops are actually stronger than the closed frames.
The R&S are probably better built than the Remingtons and Ruger Old Armies, well they are in a class by them selves.
Not disagreeing just don’t follow the reasoning.
Conversion cylinder manufacturers caution against and I’m not advocating 44Magnum pressure smokeless loads but 45C loads such as a compressed 40 grain 3F under a 255 grain bullet load.
If it's peening the cylinder notches as stated the bolt is not fitted properly. This sounds like Pietta dropped the ball during the manufacturing process. Interesting thing about Pietta is that I've had 2 older production ones come through the shop with the slot in the arbor being too narrow and not allowing the arbor and barrel lug to seat. The wedge would go through about halfway and stop leaving the barrel loose on the frame. Not a hard fix, just an odd thing to deal with.The Pietta SA Starr is a great gun but suffers from one minor flaw...the cylinder notches are too thin for the bolt and when in battery, the bolt does not bottom out but instead gives the cylinder "a wedgie" (to borrow a line from Pettifogger) which tends to peen over the edges. This is unlike the original Starrs that had ample bolt notches...
Pietta Starr SA
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Original Starr SA
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OP As usual and ain’t it fun, the thread has gone south per usual. Enjoy your R&S, preference for me are the Colt open tops for various reasons but the RS’s get their share of range time too. Sadly at my age, paper at 15 to 25 yards but trigger time none the less. Heck I’ve even gotten in the habit of enjoying the cleaning g time.
One word of caution, and ROA shooters will agree, pay attention to the base pin's cross bolt. If it’s in the wrong position downward motion of the loading
lever will pull the base pin and it will bend at the notch. Usually not a disaster as it can be straightened.
I did the same on both of mine. The screw will rotate in recoil ever so slightly and so I’ve found after a few cylinders it will move out of position. if you have a way of tightening the two screws more so that it takes more effort to turn larger one let me know.I don't find it a bad thing when a thread runs it course, and goes South. Sometimes it just gets more interesting.!!!
Yes, I'm very aware of the cross-bolt "thing". If I had to find a weak point in the R&S, that would be it. The first thing I did was cut a tiny notch, with a fine tiny file, in the face of the screw that corresponds with the notch, so that at a glance I can assure it's in the right position. I've even come across bad advice, where someone states that you turn the screw 1/4 turn, or 90 degrees. !!! That would lead to disaster! Or, semi-disaster.
I did the same on both of mine. The screw will rotate in recoil ever so slightly and so I’ve found after a few cylinders it will move out of position. if you have a way of tightening the two screws more so that it takes more effort to turn larger one let me know.
Conversion cylinders, I just don't like them. I'd take the EL Patron before I'd use a conversion cylinder. No offense, I know most of you guys love them, but they have no appeal to me. I just don't "get it" on the conversion thing. To me, a conversion cylinder is kind of like a bat. A cap-N-ball is then neither a mouse, or a bird. No offense! (to anyone)
Ha ha how was that for a lot of hot air!!!!?!!
No sir. "Mr. Jameson". That was the inspiration for the photo...It's a beauty for sure. What, did you name it "Mr. Daniels"? Or just plain "Jack"?