Cap dragging?

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Panzerschwein

Panzerschwein

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Hey everyone! Well I finally took my Cimarron Colt Navy to the range today:

Colt_Navy.jpg

Man, did it do great! VERY accurate at 15 yards offhand. I managed about a two-inch group that way- that's good shooting for me. The gun is smooth, with a nice trigger. All caps lit off, and the thing didn't get gummy even after about 40 rounds fired. I was using homemade tallow/beeswax wads that worked great. Everything was great except one thing...

Some of my caps busted and made the cylinder drag!!! :eek:

Now I was using Remington #10 caps, BUT I was also using Slix-Shot stainless steel nipples... which are specifically designed to work with... REMINGTON #10 CAPS!! :mad:

The Slix-Shot nipples have little holes drilled through the nipple's body, and supposedly these relieve back pressure and prevent the caps from blowing apart all over the place. But, mine didn't really work so hot. Even though they were the right kind of caps for these nipples, the caps burst wide open and would occasionally cause the cylinder to drag, requiring a hard cock, but it didn't totally lock up the cylinder. Nor did I get any cap fragments back in the hammer channel and none fell into the guts.

So what I'm wanting to know is, is this normal? About once a cylinder I would have to put extra pressure into cocking the gun, sometimes quite a bit, because the caps flattened out upon firing and dragged on the cylinder. Also, while some fell free, several stuck to the nipples. Is that normal? Aren't they supposed to fall off when the cylinder rotates? I was using new production Remington #10 caps, with the "improved hotter flame" or whatever on the package. I was also using Goex FFFG, 20 grains.

Does someone know what do in this situation? I am at a complete and utter loss. It would have been a perfect range day for the gun's first time out if not for this issue. Someone please help!

Thanks,

-Cooldill
 
This is a very common problem, what I do is help the cylinder rotate with my left hand rather than strain the hammer/hand mechanism then remove the offending cap.
Part of your problem may be with the hotter caps, maybe try to find the older #10 Remington caps and see if that helps.
 
I agree there Skinny, help turn the cylinder relieving the stress off the hand. But this cap problem shouldn't be happening that frequently. I can see every once in a while. :confused:
 
For whatever reason, the problem seemed to mostly happen with the first couple cylinders. I could be totally off and it could just be coincidence though?
 
Just FWIW, the original idea was to have the caps blow apart. Users, especially in combat, had no time to pry off the fired caps.

Jim
 
Oh...

I have heard the Remington New Model Army handles caps better than the Colt designs. I'm planning on buying one soon, does it not have as many issues with caps/cap fragments dragging the cylinder and dropping in the action etc. as Colts do?
 
You can have my Remington, its even uglier than a ROA. If I had a dog that ugly I would shave its a$$ and make it walk backwards.

But don't give up on that Colt!!!!

But, I'm still having trouble picturing this cap problem you're having in my head. And that may be the reason why some people here that have more experience with these kind of nipples haven't chimed in yet.

I may dislike the Remington and ROA BUT I sure do respect the hell out of them. Tack drivers!!!
 
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Willie Sutton said:
Advice?

Treso Nipples.


Willie


.
Click to expand...
Why? I bought the Slix-Shot nipples under the impression that they would help with these kind of issues. I'm even using the correct brand and size of caps recommended by the company. I'd rather not have to buy a whole nother set of nipples, already did that! :)
 
Its not the nipples its the caps. The newer Remington caps do the same thing with my 51 Navy and 49 Colt. Not so bad with my 60 Army the cap slot is a little bigger on the 44 cal guns. Sized down #11 CCI caps have been working better for me on my smaller Colts.
 
Cooldill, there is something that YOUR revolver doesn't like about those Slik-Shot nipples you bought. From here and reading the words you wrote its hard to tell what she doesn't like about them.
 
Hmmm....

Well I am going to go back out to the range on Saturday and will run a tally and keep notes on what the gun does. Heck, for all I know, the gun could just need some breaking in or something. It was the first time I shot the gun.

If I wasn't clear enough in the above post, those Remington #10s would burst open and sometimes apart and the cap or parts of it seemed to get stuck between the cylinder and the recoil shield causing some dragging and cocking issues. I didn't experience any fragments falling into the action.

I'm wondering if I should shoot the gun with only caps, no powder or ball, and see if the problem still occurs??
 
Why? I bought the Slix-Shot nipples under the impression that they would help with these kind of issues

Well.... seems they don't... :cuss:


What will the treso nipples do?

Work correctly? :eek:


Now:

Caps blow apart, generally into what looks like a flower with 3 or 4 "petals". Smaller diameter flash holes help reduce the gas coming back towards the cap, as do good strong mainstrings. Caps fragment... that's just part of the "thing" of cap & ball revolvers. Learn to cock your shootin'-iron by lifting the muzzle up and rotating your wrist to put the right side of the revolver downwards as you cock it so the fragments fall away from the thing and not straignt down into the innards. Consider installing a cap-rake as well, they are easy to fit and work well.

Treso nipples, good springs, and a cap-rake are what it takes to turn one of these into a carefree shooter. Plus a little technique when cocking. The "twist of the wrist" is a big help with an unmodified revolver.


Willie

.
 
Last edited:
Willie Sutton said:
Why? I bought the Slix-Shot nipples under the impression that they would help with these kind of issues

Well.... seems they don't... :cuss:


What will the treso nipples do?

Work correctly? :eek:


Now:

Caps blow apart, generally into what looks like a flower with 3 or 4 "petals". Smaller diameter flash holes help reduce the gas coming back towards the cap, as do good strong mainstrings. Caps fragment... that's just part of the "thing" of cap & ball revolvers. Learn to cock your shootin'-iron by lifting the muzzle up and rotating your wrist to put the right side of the revolver downwards as you cock it so the fragments fall away from the thing and not straignt down into the innards. Consider installing a cap-rake as well, they are easy to fit and work well.

Treso nipples, good springs, and a cap-rake are what it takes to turn one of these into a carefree shooter. Plus a little technique when cocking. The "twist of the wrist" is a big help with an unmodified revolver.


Willie

.
Click to expand...

I bought the SliX-Shot nipples specifically because they are marketed to reduce the pressure coming back towards the cap and that supposedly prevents the cap from blowing all over the place. Didn't seem to work so well on the range with my gun though!

I am interested in getting a stronger mainspring for the gun, what's a good place to find one? Also I looked up "cap rake" and would like to have this done to my gun. I do not have the appropriate tools or expertise to do it myself right now, is there any gunsmith I can mail the gun to who will do it for me?

Thanks for helping me get my gun running! :)
 
You're looking to solve a problem that has been a problem with Colts, from day one. You can't fix it, only deal with it. Your best bet is to get a Remington and your cap problems are over.
 
Barbie said:
You're looking to solve a problem that has been a problem with Colts, from day one. You can't fix it, only deal with it. Your best bet is to get a Remington and your cap problems are over.
Click to expand...
Oh? Do Remington New Model Armys have less problems with cap jams than Colts?

I've been eyeing one for a while now!
 
Rarely will you get a cap jam. Much better design.

History tells the story, it's no secret!
 
Thanks Crawdad !!
He can email me at [email protected]


Btw, stay away from a stronger main spring! It just makes your gun less fun to handel, harder to manipulate and bad for the nipples (if there is contact). Actually, with a cap post (rake to some), it can have a very light action and be a much more fun handeling gun!! Brushhippie couldn't have fanned the '51 if it had a monster main spring !!!
 
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