CZ-52 hammer drop warning.

[Carl N. Brown]

The hammer block on the CZ52 is a pin that enters a cut in the firing pin. Original CZ52 firing pins are cast steel. In other words, I suspect the hammer drop cut in the firing pin can get peened to the point it won't prevent the firing pin from slipping forward. The CZ52 was made 1952 to 1954: they are all over a half-century old. Investment in aftermarket machined steel firing pin and firing pin block pin might be a good idea.

I use the hammer drop feature on my CZ52 to release the hammer for manual lowering; with the finger off the trigger, the block pin and firing pin cut in good condition should block the firing pin if the hammer slips from under my thumb, but I keep the muzzle in a neutral direction no matter what. Which reminds me I need to re-prime an empty case and re-test mine. It's been awhile since the last test.

The hammer drop design on my H&K USP is much more robust, but I still use the hammer drop feature simply to release the hammer for manual lowering with finger off trigger. Again it has been a while since I tested the hammer drop with live ammo at the range.

In other words, I don't rely on a hammer drop feature to be safe, even on the Walther PP I used to have, I put the safety on with my thumb in position to lower the hammer slowly.

 

[Gordon]

I stand by my safety warning for when and what direction to "decock" on anything that has a mechanical mechanism.
It was different getting used to "decock and reholster" instead of "make safe and reholster" , just as it was to hit the trigger for a DA first shot instead of thumb on safety and fire.
Anyway I will continue to make sure of what back stop is covered when an armed ( or otherwise) pistol is out and double damn sure while mechanical devices are manipulated.

 

[M2 Carbine]

There are dozens of reasons why somebody might be on your property:

(1) meter reader,
(2) kids taking a "short cut,"
(3) parcel delivery that needs to be signed for,
(4) solicitors,
(5) police canvasing neighborhood,
(6) etc.

Suggesting that good safety practices are unnecessary because nobody has any business on your property seems a bit irresponsible.

Believe what you want but the fact is, around here you do not wander around someone else's property unannounced. It just isn't done. Even my closest friends call me (and I call them) before coming over to my place.
In any case the gate is locked.

Not to be a jerk ... but how is this the first time you heard of it?

Fair question.
I have a LOT of guns and I buy more all the time. Many have not been shot in years. Dozens and dozens of guns I am very interested in and I shoot them a lot and know pretty much all about them.
The CZ-52 falls in the category of being a gun I might shoot once a year, or less, so I'm not especially interested in it. In the past I heard about the firing pin breaking. Never happened to run across the decocker problem, although I've had the CZ-52 a couple times over the years. After my problem I got on the internet and saw this is a common problem.



Fact is, I've been into guns for about sixty years and although I hate to admit it, I don't know everything.
So, shoot the messenger if you feel it is necessary but still I want to post the warning for CZ-52 owners like me and others, maybe new owners, that may have not heard of this problem.


.

 

[bigfatdave]

Putting out the warning again is surely a good thing. Now that I think of it, I can't remember where I came across the decocker = "bang" concept first, but the CZ52's decocker is NOT like the decocker on a Walther P.1/P.38/P.4 (and I think the Beretta M9 and family).

The CZ52 decocker trips the hammer while expecting the FP block to function, the Walther style decocker moves something directly in the path of the hammer and then trips it, blocking the FP from being struck.

Now, I like surplus/historical pistols, but dislike decockers in general, but I can tell that one design is vastly superior to the other. Also I have to wonder, at what point in design of what is a pretty good pistol did some asshat decide to slap in a decocker on a single-action-only handgun? Even a safely designed decocker would be silly on that gun!

===

I didn't want to shoot the messenger, in fact I forgot to include in my earlier post that you obviously did OK in keeping the muzzle in a (mostly) safe direction
In fact, a 4 rules check shows:
1. All firearms are always loaded
2. Never let the muzzle of a firearm point at anything you are not willing to destroy
3. Keep your finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot
4. Be sure of your target and what lies beyond it

1- accomplished
2- room for improvement, but not pointed at anything alive
2- accomplished
4- room for improvement, maybe you need a sand bucket in that room?

And I wouldn't be surprised if you DID use the hammer drop with success in the past ... sometimes they work, sometimes they leave a small ding on the primer, sometimes they go BOOM.

Just curious, why don't you just leave the gun C&L? Except for that stupid decocker, the gun is reasonably safe when the lever is in the middle "more safe" position, and I can see why you like it as a "car gun" ... although I start to wonder if such a LOUD weapon is suitable for use inside a small capsule like a car's cabin.

 

[sigma 40ve]

M2, glad you weren't hurt.

 

[M2 Carbine]

maybe you need a sand bucket in that room?

No need for a sand bucket. My backyard range is just outside the shop door.

The three things I should have done is,
1. walk outside to lower the hammer (naturally with the gun pointed at the berm)
2. lower the hammer manually (which will be the case from now on).
3. had enough interest in the CG-52 to know that there was a HDS problem.

Just curious, why don't you just leave the gun C&L?

Pretty much the only guns I C&L is the 1911 when I carry.



Time to do some shooting. I bought a Bulgarian Makarov at the gun show yesterday. Makes the 17th one I have, (I like Makarovs.)
I don't use the Makarov HDS either, and it's a pretty good one.

 

[khegglie]

I Have a CZ 70 and the hammer drops HARD when the decocker is used. It passes the dowel test so I know it functions but the warning is well taken; thanks OP.