CZ 75D compact (need help)

[sturgeon]

I just picked up a cz 75d compact. I have not had a chance to shoot it and break it in yet, but as of right now, the trigger seems a little gritty.
Is there a book or diagram that shows how to fully detail strip these guns, so I can get in there and do a tad of polishing?

 

[boots]

dissassembly

on the non-ejection port side(left side of the gun, if the muzzle is pointed away from you), there are reference marks on the slide and frame towards the back of the gun(near hammer). make sure your gun is unloaded, and match up those marks. it will be easier for you to keep he marks matched if you cock the hammer, make sure the gun is empty. once the reference marks are matched up, simply tap the slide release out with a solid object(the base of your magazine works well) and once you can grab the slide release with your fingers, pull it out all the way. then you can pull the slide off the frame. note that you will not be able to dissasseble the piece if the safety is on, so click it off.

 

[boots]

sorry

i didn't read your post carefully enough. you said DETAIL strip, and i did not provide what you were looking for. i actually do not know the answer to the question you asked, but i do have a cz75 compact, and i agree that the single action pull is a bit gritty, but i can say it will improve over time. not too significantly though. it is still a good pull though in my opinion. i think adequate is the word. i can still hit with it better than with my p220st's though. maybe it's the caliber.

i put a pair of special order low-profile cocbolo grips from hakan pek, and it fits my hand like a condom.

 

[nonquixote]

Sturgeon, your best bet is probably the EAA Witness/CZ 75 gunsmithing video available from AGI offered by several sources on the web including eBay. (Search in gun accessories) It shows a complete disassembly/reassembly including cleaning and lubing of that type of pistol. Basically, once the pistol is field stripped, you lift the arm of the sear spring out of it's notch in the safety lever, pull out the safety lever, and the sear assembly then comes out of the frame and can then be further disassembled and worked on. Be careful not to lose the safety detent spring and plunger hidden in a hollow between the safety lever and frame while doing this. The video has many good hints about reassembly involving the use of slave pins for the sear and trigger groups for holding spring loaded parts in place while they're being reassembled.

Boots, maybe it's just me but condoms don't fit my hands too well. I heartily endorse Hakan's grips however and have some for all my CZs except my 97B. In the photo below the stainless Kimber is also wearing Hakans and all the leather is from HBE.



Nonq

 

[sturgeon]

Thank you,
I will have to look into that video. If I can just get rid of that gritty feeling, it will be an excellent DA/SA trigger.
thanks again

 

[sturgeon]

oh!!
by the way, those are some nice looking setups you have there.

 

[nonquixote]

Thanks, I like 'em.

The best practical way to smooth the trigger is to shoot it a lot and dry fire a lot with snap caps. After 500 rounds or so the trigger should operate much more smoothly. After that the trigger can be sweetened further by using a reduced power hammer spring. I've done that with all mine and they all have very good triggers now.

Nonq

 

[Black Snowman]

I prefer the disassembly and polish method. It resultes in a better trigger if there are any imperfections or burrs that wear in a single point instead of having things bare across a large surface. I was even able to improve a CZ 75B with over 1000 rounds through it plus a lot of dry firing.

Taking it all down isn't easy, getting back together is even tougher. But it's better than replacing the main spring (hammer spring) which shortens the dwell time and can cause functional issues with the gun, normally corrected by a too-strong recoil spring which then requires a more powerful magazine spring.

So instead of reducing friction which is also causing wear you've replaced 2 springs in the gun plus however many mags you may want to have to get them to work right with a system more apt to give light primer strikes. No thanks.

I'll try working on a web page with my method, which isn't the easiest but avoids fussing with roll pins. However, that means the main spring stays in and fights you when you disassemble and reassmble the thing. For me it's still better than missing with the hammer or fudging the roll pin.

Here is the promised web page.

 

[sturgeon]

black snowman, thanks for the link.

Another question,
I'm use to a 1911 hammer, where both hammer hooks are in contact with the sear. Are they suppose to be that way on the cz also? I ask, because on my CZ, one hammer hook is longer than the other and only the long one is in contact with the sear. Is this right?

 

[sturgeon]

now that I look closer, is it set up like this so that the shorter side catches on the decocker?

 

[nonquixote]

Sorry, I didn't notice before that you have a 75 (D) compact. that makes it harder to disassemble and I wouldn't personally recommend trying a trigger job on that one. For one thing when the decocker lever is removed, the sear assembly is still held in the frame by a staked pin that I've found very difficult to remove. I've bent a steel punch trying.

Black Snowman's excellent demo is on the 75B safety sear system. Much easier to work on than the 75D. On the brighter side I've had good luck with the method I mentioned above to smooth the trigger. I normally use a stronger recoil spring anyway on my CZs as they seem to me a little undersprung from the factory. I use a 20 Wolff spring in my PCR (75D compact)

Yes the decocker does have one shorter hammer hook to fit the decocker mechanism.

Nonq

 

[sturgeon]

thank you all for the info. I guess I'll put some more rounds through it and see if it smooths out some. I put 100 rounds through it today, very fun to shoot and real easy on follow up shots.