Dillon RL550B vs Hornaday LNL AP

Status
Not open for further replies.
I loved my LnL right up until I bought the case feeder. I despise the case feeder. There is a relatively innocuous screw in the pivot bar that makes everything work or not work. If you screw in the screw too tightly, the pivot bar will not pivot, cases will not feed, and you will find yourself becoming frustrated. If it's not screwed in enough, it will eventually work itself loose, which will cause cases to not feed properly and possibly have a spring fly out (always wear your safety goggles!).

I've never actually hated an inanimate piece of metal, but I hate this screw :fire: SO MUCH :fire:. I have comforting dreams about mangling it and usually wake up feeling refreshed.

Other issues with the case feeder include cases bouncing off the press, usually into the completed round container, and the case feeder plate getting a shell behind it which fouls up the whole feeder and will sometimes cause horrible grinding noises. Fun times.

The LnL bushings are pretty much a wash when compared to the Dillon, although I think the LnL would give one a bit more rigidity because the entire press is one contiguous piece whereas the Dillon has the tool head that needs to be screwed in. I've never worked with a Dillon although I've been contemplating purchasing the XL650 just because I hate the LnL case feeder so much.

I like the LnL powder measure, especially when equipped with the micrometers. I have two powder measures -- one for rifle and one for pistol. The pistol also has the excellent PowderFunnel.com PTX that handles case belling. Hitting a charge repeatedly is never an issue, even after changing to a wildly different load. If you have an LnL, get the micrometer.

The primer feed, as mentioned by the presumably aptly named Captain Awesome (I miss living in Gold Canyon), can be troublesome if a few grains of powder leak out… which they will, given the shell plate's sometimes violent indexing. Powder will pop out and get into nooks and crannies -- H335 is 'better' at this than W231 -- which will get into the detents underneath the shell plate and make things ever so slightly misaligned. After reloading some 2500 rounds, I too experienced The Hornady Dimple on my press. A quarter under the primer plunger fixed it. I didn't feel right using a penny, what with Lincoln's less-than-stellar history with firearms near his head.

Speaking of using coins to fix the press, my case feeder's feeding rod… it's difficult to properly name these pieces; I'm referring to the piece that causes the pivot piece to, well, pivot -- it touches the case feeder slide on the lower arm of the press. Anyway, that rod didn't quite have the reach to feed 9mm cases, so I had to tape two nickels to the press. A little ghetto but it works. I suspect the Dillon case feeder Just Works(TM) without issue. Please tell me if it doesn't, preferably before I plunk down $800 to get an XL650.

All in all I'd recommend the LnL, but without the case feeder. If you think you'll want a case feeder, I'd go with the Dillon XL650.
 
I loved my LnL right up until I bought the case feeder. I despise the case feeder. There is a relatively innocuous screw in the pivot bar that makes everything work or not work. If you screw in the screw too tightly, the pivot bar will not pivot, cases will not feed, and you will find yourself becoming frustrated. If it's not screwed in enough, it will eventually work itself loose, which will cause cases to not feed properly and possibly have a spring fly out (always wear your safety goggles!).

I've never actually hated an inanimate piece of metal, but I hate this screw SO MUCH . I have comforting dreams about mangling it and usually wake up feeling refreshed.

Other issues with the case feeder include cases bouncing off the press, usually into the completed round container, and the case feeder plate getting a shell behind it which fouls up the whole feeder and will sometimes cause horrible grinding noises. Fun times.

Funny how presses can be so different. I have a LNL WITH a case feeder and had two MINOR issues when I set it up. After I got those issues fixed, it has worked like a dream.

I had trouble with small 9mm cases bouncing off the sub-plate when the cases drop. I initially taped a business card around the drop tube to capture the shell in place. It worked well but, I wanted something more permanent. Here is my fix:
DSCN5571.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

DSCN5572.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

DSCN5569.jpg

I found a piece of thin wall PVC at Lowes. I mean THIN! This stuff is less than 1/16" thick. Regular schedule 40 will not work. I cut a piece about 3 inches long and split it lengthwise on one side only . I then cut a notch to fit over the case feed shuttle. I think the pictures are self explanatory.

The next problem I had was cases not falling directly into the feed chute. The cases would occasionally miss the chute and hit me in the head. I took a piece thin aluminum roof flashing and covered a portion of right side of the bucket drop hole. Works perfectly. Since I did that I have heard that some people drilled new mounting holes for the bucket to move the drop hole further to the left so that it is more centered over the drop chute.

photo_zps2b0056eb.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]

photocopy_zps2ce103d9.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
As far as the innocuous screw on the pivot bar, I'm not sure which screw he is referring too but, I have NEVER had a problem with any screws after the initial installation adjustment was complete. I have load 30,000 PLUS round with this case loader. I love it.
 
Last edited:
Waldog,

Nice Photos!
The WHITE PVC I got at Lowe's to make the drop tube extension says:

!/2" Silver-Line PVC-1120 SDR-13.5 PR.315 PSI @73 degrees F
(it's about 1/16" wall thickness).

On my top Black Bowl, I took it apart, drilled out the 4 screw holes slightly
and moved the bowl location over slightly, then reassembled.

The THIN TIN PIECE YOU ADDED TO THE BOWL TOP CAN ALSO
BE DONE WITH A BUSINESS CARD.

My case feeder is heading for 4 years old, NEWER HORNADY'S HAVE
A SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT BOWL SHAPE and a DIFFERENT PLASTIC FUNNEL.

Hornady also has NEWER PTX EXPANDERS for the power measures, I guess
older expanders WERE NOT QUITE LONG ENOUGH TO DO THEIR INTENDED JOB.

The newer ones EXPAND THE CASE and BELL THE MOUTH,
The POWDERFUNNELS only BELLS the MOUTH, it DOES NO EXPANSION
of the brass.

The MICROMETER (OPTIONAL) ADDED to the PISTOL POWDER ROTOR is a nice addition.

If you ADD a CLEAR PLASTIC SHEET PROTECTOR to the inside of the powder measure
clear tube, it will protect it from discoloration due to powder chemicals.

Google;
Hornady LNL-AP Set Up Hints and Tricks,
a video series by Bill Morgan on varius issues people have AND THEIR FIXES/ADJUSTMENTS.
Great Series, very much worth watching.

He has them as a STICKY under RELOADING threads, over on TheFirearmsForum site.
He's known as 76Highboy over there.

To stop the cases from feeding you can also slide a BUSINESS CARD
between the PIVOT PIECE and the DROP TUBE.

MOONMAN16
 
Last edited:
I should have added that my case feeder is an early model. I think I purchased it shortly after they were announced. At any rate I've been using it at least 4 years maybe 5. I use it almost exclusively with pistol ammo and, after my fixes, has worked perfectly. I normally do all my rifle loading on a single stage press as I rarely load more than 100 rounds at time. I have only loaded 223 in my case feeder once and it worked well.
 
Last edited:
th_lnl-cf-screw.jpg

See the black screw in the middle? That's the devil screw I'm referring to. This picture shows the pivot bar when the devil screw is incorrectly tightened and the pivot bar spring pushes the bar out, causing the entire case feeder to not feed cases.

Maybe I just have a bad one -- I know the spring bar to the left, on the lower piece, can't reach high enough to articulate the pivot bar without having two nickels taped to the case feeder shuttle. I'm planning on giving Hornady a call soon, maybe they can rectify the situation.

It's a shame because I really do like the LnL, especially when comparing caliber change prices to the Dillon XL650 and 1050. If the case feeder would just work reliably....
 
howiepa,

The Devil Screw is a SHOULDER BOLT, IT'S MEANT TO BE TIGHT.
It will still have clearance so the aluminum arm can pivot.

Your problem may be the SPRING underneath the pivoting aluminum piece.
It needs to be in a groove if I remember correctly and one end of the spring
is captured by a pin swinging in an arc????

I'm thinking you do not have the unit correctly together.
 
The Devil Screw is a SHOULDER BOLT, IT'S MEANT TO BE TIGHT.
It will still have clearance so the aluminum arm can pivot.

Your problem may be the SPRING underneath the pivoting aluminum piece.
It needs to be in a groove if I remember correctly and one end of the spring
is captured by a pin swinging in an arc????

I'm thinking you do not have the unit correctly together.

I have to concur. The shoulder bolt on my LNL is tight and NEVER given me any trouble. Call Hornady, their CS is outstanding. I sincerely hope they can help you out. It's a good machine.
 
howiepa,

I just think you have the spring underneath the PIVOTING PIECE incorrectly installed.

When it is INCORRECTLY installed the SHOULDER BOLT might not be SEATING CORRECTLY.

Tightening up against the spring, lower piece and the pivoting piece.

A shoulder bolt is made to be able to tighten up and still allow some

clearance for things to rotate or turn.



When the SPRING (under the pivoting piece) is CORRECTLY INSTALLED,

You should be able to tighten the SHOULDER BOLT all the way, and

You should be able to rotate/flip with your finger, the pivoting piece.

Place a finger BEHIND the pivoting piece and PULL IT TOWARDS YOU,

You should be feeling the SPRINGS PRESSURE, let go and the

pivot piece should spring back towards the rear.



When all that is correct, you adjust the (rod/metal piece/nut/spring/unit)

that contacts the SHUTTLE, the adjustment controls HOW MUCH PIVOT

the pivot piece does. (it slides up the ANGLED AREA of the pivoting piece,

and CONTROLS THE AMOUNT OF PIVOT THAT OCCURS.

Adjust length for function for different caliber cases, lock the rod nut down when set.
 
The way I look at it:

550b - You want a simple and very flexible press that can do everything from working up new loads to production, single stage to progressive. No case feeder wanted. 4 stations is enough.

LnL - You want auto indexing and/or 5 stations.

650 - You want a case feeder and/or a bullet feeder and still be able to use a powder check as well as seat and crimp in separate stations.
 
When I tighten the shoulder bolt the entire pivot bar refuses to pivot. When I loosen it up a bit, the pivot bar will pivot but eventually the bolt works itself loose and chaos ensues.

Sorry for the thread hijack of sorts.
 
howie,

Google for,

Hornady LNL-AP Case Feeder Instruction manual.

When the manual comes up, the instructions for the assembly
of the Spring, Pivot Piece, Shoulder Bolt (your Devil Bolt) is on PAGE 22 of the manual.
 
I currently have a Dillon RL 550B set up for .223. Great machine. I am looking at the Hornaday LNL.

The 550 holds its value a lot better than the LNL. Pretty easy to swap an LNL for a 550 but hard to get people to swap a 550 for an LNL.
 
jmorris,

I have RED and BLUE machines and I don't concern myself with them HOLDING VALUE.

I purchased them to USE THEM not to SELL THEM.
 
jmorris,

I have RED and BLUE machines and I don't concern myself with them HOLDING VALUE.

I purchased them to USE THEM not to SELL THEM.
This. I don't buy anything with the idea that it's an "investment." I buy things because I find them necessary, useful, or enjoyable.

{Digression Warning, well sorta}

Also, I find the comparison between the 550 and LNL in this thread strange, because in my mind, the two machines are not comparable. The 550 is like my MEC shotgun press: not a true progressive. I guess I'd call it a "semi-progressive." A more direct comparison would be the 650 and LNL. When I bought my 650, it was back at a time when Hornady was selling some kind of predecessor to the LNL that had issues I didn't want to deal with. Since I didn't care for the RCBS offering either, the only path up from my (true progressive) Lee Pro 1000s was the 650*.

*I never considered the SDB because of the proprietary dies.
 
moonman16
Member
*
*
Join Date: June 9, 2010
Location: Northeast Ohio
Posts: 117
jmorris,

I have RED and BLUE machines and I don't concern myself with them HOLDING VALUE.

I purchased them to USE THEM not to SELL THEM.

I understand, just noting that if the op went with the 550 first and was unhappy he could swap it for an LNL any day but not as easy the other way around. I have had a few LNL's myself and have at least one of all the dillon's too. There is no such thing as a perfect machine for everything.
 
I picked up a LNL at Cabelas yesterday too... I started cleaning/assembling last night. The manual isn't very helpful. The included DVD is much better.

What a crowd at Cabelas. They had a door buster deal on 22 ammo. The line was wrapped around the building!
 
I wish they would of had it in stock so I could have cleaned on it today however the one that it closest to me (2 hrs) keeps mostly lee stuff on the shelf.
 
Question for anyone who has a LNL AP. Could you measure from the top of your loading bench to the top of the powder measure and tell me what this distance is? I have been searching but cannot seem to find this. I am considering picking up a LNL AP but have limited clearance over my loading bench. Thanks
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top