Failing to Eject in Glock 17

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If the problem is that the slide is not moving fast enough to eject the round, you may have issues caused by multiple sources of friction. As has already been mentioned, you may have excessive friction between the cartridge and the firing chamber. Brass shell cases expand after firing. Are you absolutely sure that the shell case OD is within spec when you reload?

The recoil spring will weaken with use, so a new recoil spring needs to be stronger than necessary so that it will have a sufficiently long lifespan. You can try to weaken the spring a bit, or increase the powder load.

If the malfunction occurs more often when the magazine is fully loaded, I'd first look for sources of friction such as such as the stripper rail. Polishing the stripper rail on my P365 made a huge improvement. The slide rails may be adding excessive friction and more break-in time may be necessary. The disconnector on my P365 first needs to overcome the trigger spring force as it moves up the ramp on the slide and then it adds drag as the slide moves rearward over the disconnector. Again, more break-in time would help.

Also, make sure that the extractor is moving freely. As it is still new, who knows how much manufacturing crud there could be around the extractor? Solvent cleaning and relubing couldn't hurt. Make sure that there is still sufficient spring pressure on the extractor. You could even have an out of spec extractor spring.

As this is a new gun you can't overlook any possibility. Having worked in manufacturing most of my career I can honestly say that if there is a way for an assembler to screw up an assembly, they will find a way to do it.

I'm going to strip the slide and make sure there’s nothing in the internals that can gun it up, and up the powder a bit.

As for cases being in spec, I’m no engineer. I’ve made thousands of these rounds and never an issue. I use a case gauge before they go into the ammo bin and they all pass.
 
Never judge a semiautomatic reliability based on performance with reloads.

Maybe. But I haven’t fired a factory load other than a mag or two here and there for new carry ammo in 9 years. Never a malfunction with any of the probably 20 9MM’s I have had in that time. Truth is, this gun will never be carried. It’s a range gun. And it will shoot 99% reloads in the time I own it. Maybe it is my reloads. But I’d have to shoot 500 rounds of factory ammo with 100% reliability before I rules out the reloads. And with the price of factory ammo these days, I’m not doing that.
 
I use a case gauge before they go into the ammo bin and they all pass.

I made a bunch of dummy rounds using spent shell cases. I epoxied bullets that I had pulled from new cartridges into the spent shell cases. For general testing of my pistol they work great. However, when I was measuring the magazine insertion force, with various brands of magazine springs, I got some unexpected erratic measurements. I tracked down the issue to the spent shell cases. They had all expanded about 0.0015" in O.D. and the expansions were sometimes oval shaped. The oval shape of 12 dummy cartridges in the magazine was producing erratic measurements. So I had to repeat the testing with new cartridges.

This might not have anything at all to do with your malfunctions. But I did note a dimensional change of the cartridges after firing them.
 
If youre constantly cycling the same dummies over and over, I can see them becoming deformed from the constant hammering. Thats not a normal thing with properly resized reloads.

I load a lot of 9mm every year, and most of that is shot through Glocks. Other than the worn brass issue I referred to above, rarely have any problems. At one point I actually wore out a set of RCBS dies and had some issues there, but that stopped once I replaced the dies.

The only other issue Ive occasionally run into in the past, is not seating the bullet properly, which was more of a problem with the RCBS dies compared to the Hornady Ive replaced them with. The Hornady dies have a bullet guide that aligns the bullet as its seated, and you dont get that bulge that can cause chambering problems. But that's a whole other and opposite issue to whats going on here.

Two rounds in a hundred, in a new gun that hasn't been shot, really isnt something Id worry too0 much about, factory or reloads. If it were me, Id clean and properly lube the gun and shoot it again (I usually clean and lube a new gun before I shoot it too, and I clean after every outing). I have a feeling it will be fine.

If you dont want to spend the $$ to run factory through it, the next best thing would be a lot of fresh, new brass. Basically the same difference. From the sounds of what you've said, I doubt your reloads are really an issue, but its usually the first thing you look at, and a box or two of factory will usually, maybe, sorta, sort that. :)

For a while there, when the WWB Value Packs were going for $20 at Walmart, I was buying a box or two every time I was there, and quickly piled up a number of cases worth of it. The main reason for me buying it, was for the brass. It also helps to have that on hand for whats going on here and you want to run a couple of boxes of factory through the gun to see if its you.
 
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