First Time Reloading Part 6 - Removing Primer Crimp

[sirgilligan]

I finally had some time last night and I was looking at my sorted .223 and 5.56 brass. I had resized a lot of the .223 but I had been avoiding the 5.56 brass because it has crimped primer pockets.

So, I de-capped and resized the 5.56 brass. First thing I noticed was that it required more force to resize them. I figured it was because the primer pocket was crimped. Another thing I made a note of is that after resizing most of the 5.56 brass is just slightly long, while the .223 brass was 95% still within length specification. But that's not the point of this post.

Then I got out the RCBS Swager tool, watched the RCBS video on how to set it up and then a couple of others on youtube as well.

After many times turning the tool in a little more and a little more I finally produced a pocket where the visible edge of the crimp was gone. When I got it set and I started to work on the brass, it took a great deal of force and a quick motion to get the brass off of the swager's nipple. I am wondering, is that normal. The videos showed them gently lowering the ram and the case popping off. That is not the case for me.

The brass was all PMC X-TAC (M855)

I have not primed any of them yet, I have to get out the primers and tell you all what brands I have and ask advice, but that is a future post. I have kind of picked up various primers over time, when they were plentiful and when they were sparse I would buy some just because I had found some.

So, some questions:

Is it normal to require a good quick and firm motion to get the brass off of the swager?

Is it possible to over swage the primer pocket with the RCBS tool? If so, what are the results (besides loose primers)?

 

[rcmodel]

A light spritz of case lube in the primer pockets will make things go a lot easier.

I don't know what RCBS swage tool you have.
But if it's the die that goes in your press, I don't think it is possible to over-swage the pockets.

I had to grind a slight amount off the ends of both the S and L punches to get them to go in far enough to completely swage all the crimp out.

rc

 

[homatok]

1)Is it normal to require a good quick and firm motion to get the brass off of the swager?

2) Is it possible to over swage the primer pocket with the RCBS tool?

Mu experience using the press mounted RCBS crimp remover tool is:
1) Yes
2) no

 

[sirgilligan]

The tools is this one:

 

[sirgilligan]

I was thinking that some case lube might be in order. To clean the case lube from the pocket will rubbing alcohol do the trick?

I am thinking of applying the lube to the swager nipple that way I don't get lube in past the flash hole.

 

[ericuda]

I purchased the same tool and was very frustrated at first. I had to literally bang my press arm to remove the case from the nipple.

I use a q-tip and gun oil and lightly rub it around the nipple every 7 to 10 rounds when cases get hard to remove.

Not worried about the oil as i do a final tumble and polish of my brass after all the sizing, chamfering, deburring, etc operations anyway.

 

[Cemetery21]

It is possible to bend the rod or chip off part of the business end. The head thickness of brass can vary a little, so a rod setting for one brand might not be the right adjustment for another headstamp. I have used one quite a bit and replaced the rod a couple of times.

 

[FROGO207]

With the RCBS brand primer pocket swager first I got sick of bending the small sized rod because I forgot to adjust when changing brands of brass. Then having to thread the brass onto the rod was a PITA. That combined with having to smack the press handle to free the casing caused me to stop using that tool and purchase the CH4D combo swaging/ram prime setup that I use now. It uses the standard shell holder in the tool mounted in the top of the press and does not need the constant fiddling around with depth like the RCBS one. As a bonus it is Much faster once set up, no rod inside the brass. YMMV

 

[sirgilligan]

I just took some .223 PMC brass that was not crimped and the 5.56 PMC brass that I removed the crimp and took the RCBS Swager nipple and stuck it in the .223 and worked it in the pocket and then pulled it out and did the same with the 5.56 and it looks like it went in about the same and it felt the same when I worked it about, and it took the same force to pull it back out, so I think I got it right.

I looked at the CH4D and that looks pretty slick.

Thanks all.

So, I trimmed them and champhered them and they are ready for priming.

 

[Hondo 60]

I was thinking that some case lube might be in order. To clean the case lube from the pocket will rubbing alcohol do the trick?

Hmm, I guess it depends on what the lube is made of.
I just toss 'em in the tumbler for an hour or so.
Cleans 'em right up.

 

[FROGO207]

It is an extra step, but it is only needed the first time brass is processed. The crimped MIL type brass is generally good stuff and lasts many reloadings. Well worth the effort IMHO.

 

[lightman]

I have an older tool like the one you are using. It takes a good bit of force to get the plug out of the primer pocket. I usually raise the handle until I feel resistance and then bump the press handle with the palm of my hand. This tool is a good measure of how sturdy your loading bench really is! I don't think you can over swadge with this tool. As others have said, you might can bend the rod.

I have switched over to the Dillon tool. Its a lot easier and is also faster. It also cost more!

The extra effort that you are having sizing these cases may be because of the type weapon they were fired in. Some AR's and military weapons have sloppy chambers. More expansion equals more effort to resize.

I have to say, I like the way you enter into a new area of our Hobbie and explore the options, ask questions and learn. Some may say that you are over thinking things, but this is the way you avoid making mistakes and learn.

 

[AverajeJo]

Can't you just use a chamfer tool to remove the crimp from the primer pocket? I am confused.

 

[FROGO207]

You can use a champfer tool, a #2 screwdriver bit, a countersink, a pocket knife, and some others to remove primer crimp. BUT I like not to remove any material from my brass in the primer area so swaging it back into place is my preferred method. It may make no difference but I know that the primer is supported as best it can be by my method and that is worth the effort IMHO.

 

[im.runandgun]

This method is a very slow process....if you plan on ramping up production get a Dillon Primer pocket swager

 

[billybob44]

This method is a very slow process....if you plan on ramping up production get a Dillon Primer pocket swager

^^^+1-If you plan to do more than 1K of primer pockets in your lifetime, the Dillon 600 Super Swage is the way to go.
Many tricks shown also on U-Tube vids..Bill.

 

[390ish]

I always lightly ream by hand with a champher tool. It can go quick once you get the hang of it and with a lot of brass that only has stab crimped pockets, hardly any material is removed. I am not working the brass when I cut it.

 

[Coldfinger]

Chuck a #2 cross tip in my hand drill and have at it. Light pressure. I can actually feel when the crimp is gone. It's not ideal but works

 

[jmorris]

I have tried just about every method. The tools that cut the pocket don't take much force but the hand twist versions get old fast, the bits you can install in power tools make it much more tolerable.

When I use the RCBS swage I have a new case in my left palm held by my last two fingers and grab the case with the first two and thumb, a quick wiggle and replace it with the next case. I not even use the ejector cup.

It takes less effort than the Dillon super swage but the best system hands down is the swager on the 1050. It costs a lot more than the others but you also get a heck of a reloading machine along with the deal.

In the end they all work, like reloading presses, you just have to figure out which one fits you best.

 

[joem1945]

For large lots of crimped brass I use the Dillon super swedge. If I come across a few range pick ups with crimped pockets I use the RCBS champher tool. I have even chucked it up in my bench lathe if I have a dozen or so.

 

[Panfisher]

I had a large batch of mostly milspeccases. Didn't take me long to buy a Lyman primer pocket reamer. If lots to do chuck it in a drill press and only takes a quick touch to remove the crimp.

 

[Elkins45]

If you are using a press with cam over like an RCBS then I have found it better to screw the die down far enough that it swages before the cam over. This gives a more positive feel and allows you to control the force so you are less likely to bend the center rod.

If you do bend the rod it's not a big deal to straighten it.