Frustrated w/ powder handling/measuring
- Thread starter D.B. Cooper
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No it will settle by the time you get the bottom 1/3 out. But I rarely load enough pistol at 5 gr in one setting to need to reload and keep going.
I can show you my Lee hopper that’s not been unloaded in 5-6 years. Always left with red or green dot in it. My perfect and auto drums stay loaded with mostly ball powders. I have some mec shotshell press hoppers that have probably been loaded for 25 years with different powders.
LiveLife
Member
Please, this is the High Road. Stop posting incorrect information.
This is what Hodgdon recommends - http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/rel...t-store-powder-reloader-powder-measure-hopper
"DO NOT STORE POWDER IN THE RELOADER POWDER MEASURE HOPPER
Powder left in the reloader's powder measure hoppers for extended periods, overnight or several days, should be avoided. Powder needs to be stored in original containers ONLY, when not in use. Numerous modern smokeless powders are double base in composition, containing both Nitroglycerine and Nitrocellulose. Many powder measures currently available use an inexpensive plastic containing polystyrene, which Nitroglycerine adversely effects when contact is made for extended periods of time, resulting in etching or misshaping the plastic. Normal usage during the reloading process does not provide adequate time for this to occur, so simply draining hoppers into the original containers when the reloading is complete for the day prevents ruining the hoppers."
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LiveLife
Member
More on powder storage - http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/safety/gunpowder-stability
"GUNPOWDER STABILITY
The following information is provided as an introduction on the stability, storage, and safe handling of modern smokeless propellant.
Smokeless Propellant
The main ingredient of smokeless propellant, comprising from about 55% to 90% of the composition, is nitrocellulose. The process of creating nitrocellulose leaves remnant acid in the material. This acid immediately starts decomposing the finished product. Left alone the decomposition will reach the stage where the propellant becomes unstable and self-ignites. This process resulted in massive explosions at U.S. Government arsenals after World War I.
To increase the life of the smokeless propellant, a stabilizing chemical is used. This “stabilizer” reacts with the acid to slow down the decomposition process. However, as the stabilizer reacts with the acid it is consumed. After the stabilizer is totally consumed, the propellant is no longer protected from the internal acid.
The entire stabilizer / decomposition process is a time and temperature function – the higher the temperature, the shorter the safe life of the powder. Even moderate temperature, over extended time, leads to propellant decomposition. As a rule of thumb, any temperature over that which is comfortable to a person is accelerating the decomposition of smokeless propellants.
Under proper storage, modern smokeless powder can last for decades. However, this does not mean the reloader can ignore how the powder is stored, particularly if in an uncontrolled environment such as a garage or storage building."
And this is what Vihtavuori recommends - https://www.vihtavuori.com/powders/storage-of-powders/
"RECOMMENDATIONS FOR STORAGE OF SMOKELESS POWDER
Do not store smokeless powder where it will be exposed to the sun’s rays."
gwpercle
Member
Scoops .
Powder like unique can be scooped extremely consistently .
You have to perfect you "technique" and do it consistently every time but the scoop will work on any "flakey" powder.
Take a look at Accurate Powders #2 , #5 and #7 all are fine , almost ball powders that flow through a meter well.
Tip...set you measure , throw 10 charges and weigh all the powder ...divide by 10 . That number will be your charge weight.....it's not the weight that's critical...it's the volume , the weights can and will vary , stop weighing every charge... Be 100% consistent in measure operation (technique) practice so that 10 measured charges vary plus or minus 0.1 grain...when you can do that...you good. When charging a case if something doesn't feel right in operating the handle, dump that charge and redo it .
Charge all the cases , set in a loading block and inspect the levels with a strong light.
Stop weighing every charge it will drive you to drink !
Gary
Powder like unique can be scooped extremely consistently .
You have to perfect you "technique" and do it consistently every time but the scoop will work on any "flakey" powder.
Take a look at Accurate Powders #2 , #5 and #7 all are fine , almost ball powders that flow through a meter well.
Tip...set you measure , throw 10 charges and weigh all the powder ...divide by 10 . That number will be your charge weight.....it's not the weight that's critical...it's the volume , the weights can and will vary , stop weighing every charge... Be 100% consistent in measure operation (technique) practice so that 10 measured charges vary plus or minus 0.1 grain...when you can do that...you good. When charging a case if something doesn't feel right in operating the handle, dump that charge and redo it .
Charge all the cases , set in a loading block and inspect the levels with a strong light.
Stop weighing every charge it will drive you to drink !
Gary
I spray the drum of my powder measures with a little graphite lock lubricant when they gets sticky. You can tell when the carrier solvent flashes off. I've found as the measure gets some time on it, I need to lubricate it less.
I've used teflon dry lubricant and it works well but I figure the graphite is more compatible with the powder.
I've never left powder in any of my powder measures over night or for an extended period of time but even so, my 1980 vintage RCBS Uniflow's hopper's inside has been etched from the powder that has passed through it. It has taken several decades, but it does happen.
PWC
Member
When I drop the powder charge, I take a quick look then seat the bullet immediately, before the case goes back in the loading block. The case does not leave my hand from the measure to the press. Only a finished cartridge goes back in the loading block.
In more than 30 years, I've never had to come back to a partial finished block because of interruptions and do a second look for double charge, nor have I had a squib load.
To me, an open, charged case standing open mouth up, is an accident waiting to happen.
In more than 30 years, I've never had to come back to a partial finished block because of interruptions and do a second look for double charge, nor have I had a squib load.
To me, an open, charged case standing open mouth up, is an accident waiting to happen.
I never leave powder in the hopper. I do run a bunch of charges through to settle it down before loading. I also do this when getting the measure set, I don't bother to weigh any at all before I throw twenty charges first, and some powders take more to settle down. This is using a baffle 3/4 of the way to the top of the hopper.Very consistent charges this way.
Nitroglycerin will damage hoppers. Some don't care if it gets so eaten up they can't see through it, but I prefer to remove powders as soon as I am done for multiple reasons.
Nitroglycerin will damage hoppers. Some don't care if it gets so eaten up they can't see through it, but I prefer to remove powders as soon as I am done for multiple reasons.
OP
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D.B. Cooper
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Okay. So.
I used only the Redding beam scale. Zeroed and checked with a 5 grn weight. Twice. From there, the best I could get was an oscillation of +/- 0.1 grn.)
I accept that, for revolver shooting under 15 yrds, that is "good enough." I also accept that, I'm such a bad shot (USPSA type shooting) that the ammo would have to be really bad to negatively impact my performance. I accept that I have induced, a "sum of errors."
On to the next problem. As soon as I started loading again, the press started breaking down. Projectiles sticking in the seating die. The turret not rotating to the next stage. The whole world is against me I swear.
I used only the Redding beam scale. Zeroed and checked with a 5 grn weight. Twice. From there, the best I could get was an oscillation of +/- 0.1 grn.)
I accept that, for revolver shooting under 15 yrds, that is "good enough." I also accept that, I'm such a bad shot (USPSA type shooting) that the ammo would have to be really bad to negatively impact my performance. I accept that I have induced, a "sum of errors."
On to the next problem. As soon as I started loading again, the press started breaking down. Projectiles sticking in the seating die. The turret not rotating to the next stage. The whole world is against me I swear.
Check the plastic ratchet on the index rod. They occasionally crack and become inconsistent before they totally fail. Leads to the errors you describe.
Dudedog
Contributing Member
I believe clays is large flakes
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=84
In general the smaller the powder grains are the better it will meter.
Unique is known for not metering well and I don't blieve Clay is either.
Other powders will meter better.
AA#2 is in the same burn speed range a Clays and meters like a dream and also shoots well.
Sport Pistol and HP38/W231 also meter well.
I would give AA#2 or Sport Pistol a try.
I know that does not help with the powder you have but maybe for the next batch.
Either should get you to + or - .1 gr. I would be hard pressed to shoot the difference free hand.
http://www.ilrc.ucf.edu/powders/sample_detail.php?powder_id=84
In general the smaller the powder grains are the better it will meter.
Unique is known for not metering well and I don't blieve Clay is either.
Other powders will meter better.
AA#2 is in the same burn speed range a Clays and meters like a dream and also shoots well.
Sport Pistol and HP38/W231 also meter well.
I would give AA#2 or Sport Pistol a try.
I know that does not help with the powder you have but maybe for the next batch.
Either should get you to + or - .1 gr. I would be hard pressed to shoot the difference free hand.
LiveLife
Member
I have found with proper training, most people will learn to shoot pretty well fairly quickly.
One time I was shooting at the range and I thought I heard someone crying in the lane next to me. When I checked, there was an elderly lady shooting a revolver who had difficult time hitting a fullsize target at 7 yards. She said her husband passed away and crime in her neighborhood increased and due to fear, using her husband's revolver she tried to practice shooting but had hard time hitting the target. She was in tears!
I spent the next 30 minutes going over the basics of shooting (stance, grip, etc.) but because of her situation decided to teach her close range defensive shooting technique only (essentially point shooting) and in no time, she was getting 4" groups at 5 yards and 7 yards. With tears in her eyes, she smiled big and thanked me and promised she would continue to practice. When she left, I was in tears, other shooters stopped shooting to watch us and the range staff stood by the viewing window and thanked me for spending time with the lady.
Another time, a couple was shooting in the next lane and the lady was obviously having difficulty hitting the target. Her husband almost berated her that she couldn't shoot because she was a woman and it was a lost cause. When the lady looked at my tight groups, she asked if I could show her how to shoot. I went over the shooting basics in my lane and she was a fast learner and soon was shooting tight fast groups at 7 yards. When she returned to her lane and out shot her husband, he abruptly packed up and left with her smiling and waving as they left.
Over the decades, I have taught many friends, family, neighbors and coworkers to shoot. Even elderly with arthritis and shaky hands managed to point shoot tight groups at 7 yards.
For Action Pistol shooting like USPSA, try this exercise I posted to help a member shoot accurate double taps - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/trying-to-double-tap.840922/#post-10920036
And if you want to shoot faster and accurate, you can try these techniques - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-help-me-speed-up.824618/page-4#post-10902226
LiveLife
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GW Staar
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What I found in N.Mexico is that dry lube or graphite helped, but not very long......then the hopper had to be emptied and lube reapplied. Then I tried polishing one of my Uniflows with a grinder, sandpaper and polish. That worked pretty well, but as you can imagine that operation was a royal PIA!
Then someone turned me on to the paste wax....to use after the grind & polish. That made the biggest difference and longevity was great....static was minimal.......so then someone suggested that just polishing with paste wax SANS the grind & polish....might work just as well. So I tried that.....he was right.
Therefore, happily, the super difficult grinding and polishing of the rough cast insides was limited to only one of my 4 Uniflows. The other three ware simply waxed! Of course baffles were made and used on each. As it turns out, repeatability was as good as the one that was ground smooth, polished and waxed. Try it.....it's not hard....got my paste wax from the paint aisle at Home Depot. If your powder still sticks to the sides of the casting....you didn't use enough wax.
Other cool results:
- Waxing and buffing the moving parts...created smooth operation without grease or oil that might contaminate.
- Rusting was reduced since wax is waterproof.
- Polishing the inside of the plastic hopper with a good layer of wax makes the hopper impervious to powder staining. I've left powder in the waxed hopper for two weeks and had zero problems. And powder is plenty fresh if you make sure hopper is always capped. (hint....leave only the powder can on the bench that's in the hopper....or you will be sorry.
)
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PWC
Member
Did the grind on my Lyman 55, you're right, PIA. Now that I know, I'll wax....what kind, Johnson's paste floor wax?
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D.B. Cooper
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I tightened a screw on the right handside. It worked for about 2 bullets and then quit.
I started a new thread for this issue.
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ess-wearing-out-after-1500-rds-loaded.841954/
entropy
Member
That's odd, I've used Dippers and weighed all my charges for 40 years and have quit drinking in that time. (Not implying reloading caused me to quit drinking.) I also seat the bullet immediately after checking the charge, not waiting until I have all 50 in a block. My charges do not vary +/- .1 grain, only by whatever variance the 505 has. I started reloading for accuracy, and I achieve it.
Everybody's reloading regimen is slightly different from the next guy, and we all do them the way we do for specific reasons.
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GW Staar
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Johnsons is what I have used mostly....... I went to Home Depot a year ago to get some more. They had MinWax brand, so I bought that.....seems to work the same.
I also use such in my shop on my steel tops on table saws and other shop tools.....the material to be cut slides exponentially better and importantly, without grease or oil to contaminate the wood....makes using the tools safer....no hanging up on push through....predictable means safety. Of course surface preservation from rust is a huge plus in even dry New Mexico....in humid areas I couldn't imagine being without it in a wood shop.
But because of the constant sliding material, shop tools require re-application monthly for best tool surface protection, but powder measures don't get that type of use.....so it lasts and lasts.
I added the following thought to my last post.....it is important enough to be included on this one too.
Important: Do let wax dry before you buff it.....and don't even think about skipping the buffing.
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wankerjake
Member
Don’t sweat the oscillation man, a few tenth day of a grain variance usually doesn’t make a difference. Some powders are worse than others but sometimes I throw Unique and Herco with like a .4gr variance and I roll with it. Annoying for sure but it shoots the same and I don’t notice a difference when I’m shooting it.
You will lose less sleep and make more ammunition when you accept that thrown charges are by volume and it’s good enough. I weight a few at the beginning for consistency and then sometimes every 50 rounds or so depending, but by and large I don’t check every weight. I throw a volume of powder and seat a bullet and cruise.
Of course there are exceptions but for high volume stuff, just throw a charge
You will lose less sleep and make more ammunition when you accept that thrown charges are by volume and it’s good enough. I weight a few at the beginning for consistency and then sometimes every 50 rounds or so depending, but by and large I don’t check every weight. I throw a volume of powder and seat a bullet and cruise.
Of course there are exceptions but for high volume stuff, just throw a charge
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