I have a Bushmaster AR 15 from Budsgunshop.com. I love the gun but I want a lighter trigger pull. Looking into getting an aftermarket assembly to get the lightest pull possible, but I'm not sure exactly what to look for and wondering if its something easily replaced. I am a pretty proactive person so I will be able to figure it out, but every time I post something on here I always learn a ton about my topic, so please hit me with whatever you know. I will use it. Thanks guys.
Getting a Lighter Trigger Pull for my AR-15 (.223)
- Thread starter lukemayo
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Tinpig
Member
http://triggerwork.net/
I sent my SP1 trigger group to this guy (Bill Springfield) for the 4lb trigger job. It greatly improved the trigger and my shooting.
Tinpig
I sent my SP1 trigger group to this guy (Bill Springfield) for the 4lb trigger job. It greatly improved the trigger and my shooting.
Tinpig
I just installed a Geissele ssa-e in my Stag model 3, took about 10 mins, the pull is a super clean break on second stage, I consider it comparable to my bolt action target rifles. Although pricy in my opinion I wanted it for target shooting and it fits my need.The original trigger was simply too heavy, ok for plinking general spray and pray but for fine work not acceptable. I did a lot of research and decided on the Geissele due to excellent reviews and safety factor in that I believe the quality of the Geissele will be long term and my groups improved on first outing always a good sign.
Geissele, JP, AR Gold. All are great triggers. The JP Original Trigger is the least expensive of the three. Notice I did not say cheap. The JP can be had for around $120 or so. The others start around $200 or more. You can not go wrong with any of them. It really just depends on you budget.
Some folks love 2 stage triggers, I am not a fan. For the type of shooting I do a nice crisp, clean one stage trigger works better. At least to me.
Some folks love 2 stage triggers, I am not a fan. For the type of shooting I do a nice crisp, clean one stage trigger works better. At least to me.
It may be cheaper to put in a "drop in trigger" from Brownells or MidwayUSA. Several of these drop in triggers are a complete assembled unit and not indicidual parts. I have two AR's and I installed Chip Mccormick triggers in both and now both have a single stage trigge rbreaking at 21/2 lb w/o any take up or creep whatsoever. They're a little on the expensive side but it sure beats the 9 lb trigger on my Colt H-Bar. Best of all, the McCormick triggers can be removed and the original parts be reinstalled. I have the best of both worlds.
lukemayo Look at JARD for what you need. You can buy a 1 1/2lb trigger group thats fully adjustable and with a spring change increase the weight as needed. They make very good triggers groups.
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I guess the other thing to ask is what type of shooting do you do? A super light trigger is fine for bench shooting but is not really safe for running and jumping and rolling around in the dirt. Most "tactical" triggers break around 3 to 4 pounds. Which is perfect for me. But as they say YMMV.
Good point, as I stated the Geissele ssa-e works great for me however may not be correct for those playing war. The geissele website has a good break down of various triggers they sell. The SSA-E is comparable to my savage accu-trigger. I try to have all my rifles approximately the same as its makes the change over much easier.
Gus McCrae - "Most "tactical" triggers break around 3 to 4 pounds"
Would my standard Bushmaster AR 15 probably have this same trigger pull of 3 or 4 pounds?
Would my standard Bushmaster AR 15 probably have this same trigger pull of 3 or 4 pounds?
Nope, most ARs come with standard single stage "GI" triggers that break in the 6-10lb range and typically have a bit of grit and travel before the break. Many "tactical" triggers are in the 2-4lb range and are two stage.
Justin
Moderator Emeritus
Yes, installing the after-market trigger will lighten the weight like that.
A lot of the target triggers will go as light as 2 to 2-1/2 lbs., but you need to be extremely dilligent about trigger safety if you do any run and gun.
If you want a lower-cost option, you might take a look at the Rock River 2-stage National Match triggers. They're considered an entry-level trigger for High Power, and a lot of people seem to like them.
A lot of the target triggers will go as light as 2 to 2-1/2 lbs., but you need to be extremely dilligent about trigger safety if you do any run and gun.
If you want a lower-cost option, you might take a look at the Rock River 2-stage National Match triggers. They're considered an entry-level trigger for High Power, and a lot of people seem to like them.
Guess it depends way more on your shooting back ground. I don't own a rifle that has a trigger pull over 2.3 lbs and thats a old 1976 remington 788.
I too will check out rock rivers trigger also but I have never been comfortable with 2 stag trigger. But a 2 1/2lb pound trigger that is also cost affective would be a plus also. I do have a couple triggers from rifle basic, timney,clark and jard, each and all work very well . The one thing that appeals to me with for a AR is the Jard trigger. I want a nice light bench type trigger or to use for hunting it can have it down to 1 1/2lb I can have that. If I then need a very safe but still very tuneable trigger just a spring change does that to 4 lbs. Not cheap but a very real option for someone that may use a rifle for many different types of shooting.
I too will check out rock rivers trigger also but I have never been comfortable with 2 stag trigger. But a 2 1/2lb pound trigger that is also cost affective would be a plus also. I do have a couple triggers from rifle basic, timney,clark and jard, each and all work very well . The one thing that appeals to me with for a AR is the Jard trigger. I want a nice light bench type trigger or to use for hunting it can have it down to 1 1/2lb I can have that. If I then need a very safe but still very tuneable trigger just a spring change does that to 4 lbs. Not cheap but a very real option for someone that may use a rifle for many different types of shooting.
greyling22
Member
if your're going to install an aftermarket trigger anyway, try the 50 cent trigger job yourself first. you might like it, and if you don't, you're buying a different trigger anyhow....
Home smithing an AR trigger IMO is a bad idea due to doubling after some use, also if you remove the stock trigger and replace with an aftermarket and decide to sell the rifle at some future time it's an easy job to replace stock trigger in rifle.
Personally I went with a Timney AR-10 trigger in my AR-15. It has a nice, crisp, 4# break. Perfect. I got that one because the hammer is heavier than the one for the 15. I had some FTF's and Timney was nice enough to exchange them for me.
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=1U-jTuGrJIH50gH40YCMBQ&ved=0CDYQ8wIwAA#
http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=1U-jTuGrJIH50gH40YCMBQ&ved=0CDYQ8wIwAA#
DougW
Member
I have a CMC in my "match rifle". I really love it. A friend has the Rock River in 2 rifles, and they are sweet also.
Some posters need to stop convicting the "home gunsmith". There are a number of us out there that are very capable of achieving a safe 3# creep free trigger on the AR. And a bunch are aware of the constant reminder to the metallurgy of the trigger group.
This also applies to J frames, 1911 platforms, and the 10-22.
Wingman, if you sell the "50 cent" AR, you remove the grip, remove the screw, replace the grip and sell the damn thing. If you have bent a leg of a spring, go spend a dollar or so and get new ones.
Some need to copy and paste this.
"I have no idea of your expertise so please do not take this wrong.......
This also applies to J frames, 1911 platforms, and the 10-22.
Wingman, if you sell the "50 cent" AR, you remove the grip, remove the screw, replace the grip and sell the damn thing. If you have bent a leg of a spring, go spend a dollar or so and get new ones.
Some need to copy and paste this.
"I have no idea of your expertise so please do not take this wrong.......
I did the ".50 cent trigger" and the "15 min. trigger". Only used a scotch pad to put a little wear on things. Works like a charm. Have at least a thousand rounds thru it with no trouble. Like he said you can undo it for 2 bucks or go get whatever you want. Plus a guy might learn a thing or two while doing it. Not sure I'd do it to a real nice rifle. Mine is just a general purpose shooter and it works great.
Geissele SSA-E. It'll be money well spent. The let off is crisp enough to be adequate for precision shooting, yet heavy enough for field use at around 4lbs.
if you want to save $$ just get the AR15 replacement spring kit from wolfe gunsprings, and polish the appropriate hammer/sear surfaces.
Sansone, the springs do not take care of the negative interface of the hammer and sear. Most all production semi-autos have the same fit.
With a factory AR, you will actually move the hammer out of the way when you pull the trigger. I have done the file, sand, stone, to achieve the fit, but you have to reharden parts.
With the spring kit, besides dealing with the interface, you still have to put up with the creep that still lives in the trigger group. The normal answer is simply reduce the width of the hammer shelf. Again you have to stone, grind, file, and or sand until its right.
The 50 cent trigger job simply changes angles, depth of contact between the sear and the hammer, safely, effectively, and cheap. Get it where you want it, loctite the screw and enjoy.
But hey, I read it all in a book.
With a factory AR, you will actually move the hammer out of the way when you pull the trigger. I have done the file, sand, stone, to achieve the fit, but you have to reharden parts.
With the spring kit, besides dealing with the interface, you still have to put up with the creep that still lives in the trigger group. The normal answer is simply reduce the width of the hammer shelf. Again you have to stone, grind, file, and or sand until its right.
The 50 cent trigger job simply changes angles, depth of contact between the sear and the hammer, safely, effectively, and cheap. Get it where you want it, loctite the screw and enjoy.
But hey, I read it all in a book
.What REDCENT said.
It's best to save your pennies and buy a drop in trigger. Be careful of the guy who say's he can do it. If you don't understand things like positive, negative, two stage and single stage triggers it could be a legal liability.
It's best to save your pennies and buy a drop in trigger. Be careful of the guy who say's he can do it. If you don't understand things like positive, negative, two stage and single stage triggers it could be a legal liability.
Anyone have instructions for these trigger mods?
I can lighten a Garand trigger but never work on a AR
Thanks
I can lighten a Garand trigger but never work on a AR
Thanks
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